IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


Y 


// 


A 


f/. 


y. 
^ 


10     '" 


I.I 


1.25 


il2.8 


45 

!f  ilM 

40 


i, 


1.4 


IM 

2.2 

IM 

1.6 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


^^ 


# 


\ 


\ 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  M580 

(716)  872-4503 


^\^ 


4 


rv 


<> 


i/l 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series, 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  InstitJte  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibiiographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


n 


n 
n 


n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagie 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  peliiculde 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  g6ographiques  en  couleur 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  at/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relid  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

Lareliure  serr6e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  int^rieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout6es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmdes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl^mentaires; 


The 
tot 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  itd  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mithode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


□    Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

□    Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagies 


D 


^J 


D 


Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaur^es  et/ou  pelliculdes 


0    Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachetdes  ou  piqu^es 

□    Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtach6es 


Thj 
poi 
of  1 
filnr 


Ori 
be{ 
the 
sioi 
oth 
firs 
sioi 
or 


Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


I      I    Quality  of  print  varies/ 


Qualitd  inigale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppl^mentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


ThJ 
sha 
Tll\ 
wh 

Ma 
diff 
ent 
beg 
righ 
req 
mei 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  ixh  film^es  d  nouveau  de  facon  d 
obtenir  la  meilieure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqud  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

SOX 

y 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


L'exemplaire  filmd  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
g6n6rosit6  de: 

Bibliothdque  nationale  du  Canada 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  l'exemplaire  filmd,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimde  sont  film^s  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film6s  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — »>  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmis  ibi  des  taux  de  reduction  diff6rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cliche,  il  est  film6  &  partir 
de  Tangle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m^thode. 


1 

2 

3 

32X 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

•it 


.V- 


li 


.1   1 

;    I 


/i>/fi'9 


■■a  ? 


1^ 


National  Library       Bibliotheque  Rationale 
of  Canada  du  Canada 


Reserve 


ff^'b  3^5  l^at) 


j'l,        'T-V,  „ 


■»  '* 


•'-> 


SUMMER   MONTH. 


II 


# 


f^ 


^ 


"fci.Hi  ■I'W' jMpi  "*^ 


^' 


■■*-»ii 


3 


M.t 


« 


W 


SUMMER  MONTH; 


on, 


iUccoHection^ 


or 


A  VISIT  TO  THE 


l^Amai  ^W  miA^AlBA^ 


AXD   THE   LAKES. 


IJ 


'I 
4"' 


"  Dum  loquimur,  fugerit  invida 
iKtas!  carpe  diem,  quAm  rainimtira  credula  postero." 


HOR. 


PHILADELPHl 

H    . 

«.  C.  CAllET  AND  J.  tEA,  CHESNUT  8TBEET  ;*A%*BvU. 
157  BllOAUWAT,  IfEWl^r     ;l^," 

i  ,-  " 

iViUiam  Brown,  Pr/n/|'  ' 


r       .  <  i' 


1823. 


Eastern  District  of  Pennsylvama,  to  wit  .• 

BE  IT  REMEMBERED,  That  on  tlie  sixlh  day  of  February,  in 
the  forty -seventh  year  of  the  Independence  of  the  United  States  of 
America,  A.  D.  1823,  H.  C.  Carey  and  I.  Lea,  of  the  said  district, 
have  deposited  in  this  office  the  title  of  a  book,  the  right  where- 
of they  claim  as  proprietors,  in  the  words  following,  to  wit : 

"A  Summer  Month;  or»  Recollections  of  a  Visit  to  the  Falls  of 
Niagara,  and  the  Lakes,  Dum  loquimur,  fugerit  invida  ^tas: 
carpe  diem,  qu^m  minimum  credula  postero.    Hor. " 

In  conformity  to  the  act  of  the  Congress  of  the  United  States, 
Intituled,  "An  act  for  the  encouragement  of  learning,  by  secur- 
ing the  copies  of  maps,  charts,  and  books,  to  the  authors  and 
proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the  times  therein  mentioned." 
And  also  to  the  act,  entitled,  "  An  act  supplementary  to  an  act, 
entitled,  •  An  act  for  the  encouragement  of  learning,  by  secur- 
ing the  copies  of  maps,  charts,  and  books,  to  the  authors  and 
proprietors  of  such  copies  during  the  times  tlierein  mentioned,' 
and  extending  the  benefits  thereof  to  the  arts  of  designing,  en- 
graving, and  etching  historical  and  other  prints." 

D.  CALDWELL,  Clerk  of  the  Eastern 
District  of  Pennsylvama. 


CONTENTS. 


CUAP.  PACfS 

I.  Introduction  —  New-York  —  Association  of    Compa- 

nions— Passage  up  the  river  Hudson — Persons 
on  board, 1 

II.  Environs  of    Albany — Schenectady — Villages    and 

Scenery  on  the  road — Utica — Tavern  tea-party 
—Conversation, 9 

III.  Accessions    to    the    Party — "Villages— Breakfast— 

Oneida  Castle — Plains  and  Forest  Scenery — Ob- 
servations on  the  Indians— Melioration  propos- 
ed  17 

rv.  Villages — Scenery    and   Incidents — Auburn:    The 

Prison :    Theological  Seminary, 33 

V,  Passengers   called — I'lourishing  Appearance  of  the 

Country — Travelling  Customs  —  Growth  of 
Towns — Familiar  Introduction— Similarity  of 
Names  in  Places — Theological  Seminary,  at  Ge- 
neva— Canandaigua — Burning  Spring,      ...    39 

VI.  Episcopal  Church — Divine  Worship— Lay-Reader — 

Preaching:  Doctrinal  Inferences — Visit  from 
Mr.  B. — Departure  from  Canandaigua — Travel- 
ling Group — Progress  of  the  Canal — Traveller's 
Fare — Improvements  in  Stages — General  Re- 
marks—Buffalo— Entrance  into  Upper  Canada,    S3 


■aSi. 


vi  CONTENTS. 

CUAF,  PAOK 

VII.  Niagara  Falls, 65 

VIII.  Departure  from  Niagara  Falls— Itoiite  on  the  Ca- 

nada side:  Water  Scenery — Ncvark — Lake 
Ontario  :  York  :  Steam-boat :  Sermon  :  Party  on 
board — llecollections  of  the  War,        ....    83 

IX.  Entrance   into   Kingston — Suggestions    concerning 

the  Descent  of  tlie  St.  Lawrence — American 
Climate, .    95 

X.  Descent  of  the   St.    Lawrence— Thousand    Isles — 

Gananoque — Remarkable  Occurrence — llrock- 
ville  :  Group  of  By-standers — Termination  of 
the  day's  sail, 105 

XL  Ogdensburgh:  L'jcal  Advantages  and  Improvements 
— Prescott :  Incidents — Upper  Canada  side  of 
the  St.  Lawrence — Remarks  on  the  Country 
and  Habits — Lake  St.  Francis — Entrance  into 
Lower  Canada — Rapids — Villages— Steam-boat 
Circle — Approach  towards  Montreal,       .     .    .  115 

XII.  Impressions    on    entering  :      Montreal — Religion : 

Customs  :  Education  :  Government :  and  Mi- 
litary Force  in  Canada, 129 

XIII.  Retrospection  of  the  Tour — View  on  leaving  Mon- 

treal— Group  of  Passengers — La  Prairie — Tra- 
veller's Alternative — St.  John's, 145 

XIV.  Lake    Chanrplain — Isle  aux    Noix — Plattsbnrgh: 

Singular  Adventure  on  shore — Burlington — 
Sunset, 153 

XV.  Connection  of  Thought — America  —  Mountainous 

Countries  —  Observations  on  Vermont — Civil 
Liberty — Crown  Point  and  Ticonderoga,    .    .  161 


*4. 


^;. 


.»-?■'.        ■■>:■:    .lii^,-ft)': 


iii. 


CONTENTS.  vii 

XVIf  Approach  to  Whitehall — Scenerj'  and  Associations 
— American  Inns — Habit  of  Drinking—  I.ansing'- 
burgh  —  Waterford  —  Cohoez  Falls  —  Troy  — 
Albany, 171 

XVII.  Retrospect — The   Springs — Eticpicttc— Introduc- 

tions— Society  of  Ladies — Fashionable  Circles 
—Company — Good  Breeding, 185 

XVIII.  Passage  from  Albr  ly  to  New-York  :  I'orti'ail  Pain- 

ter :  Major:  Lieutenant:  Minister:  Visita- 
tions of  Providence 195 

XIX.  Separation  of    Companions — Newark — Elizabeth 

Town — Casual  Meeting — New-Urunswick — Di- 
vine Service — Devotion, 209 

XX.  General  Description  of  the  Country — I'rinceton  : 

Nassau-Hall  College — Theological  Seminary  of 
the  Presbyterian  Church— Trenton — lload  to 
Philadelphia,        229 

XX[.  City  of  Philadelphia  :  Reflections  :  Advice  to  the 
Tourist :  Rise  and  Fall  of  Nations  :  Preference 
given  to  Travelling  in  a  new  Country— Study  of 
Nature,       237" 


ifcr '/tV-g.  ■  ii^  ".:_  ^.. 


,  .h...^_ 


it^- 


fc 


'va- 


* 


A  SUMMER  MONTH. 


CHAPTER  1. 

■  '■»  \ 

I lUroiluction— New-York — Association  of  Companions — I'as 
ffagc  up  llic  river  Hudson — Persons  on  board. 


"  Cari'k  j)inM,"  or,  seize  the  present  moment, 
is  a  very  important  maxim  in  life,  and  in  no  situa- 
tion more  so,  than  with  regard  to  travelling  ;  but 
to  be  able  to  do  this,  is  the  grand  point.  Often 
when  we  think  we  have  caught  the  fugitive,  we 
find  we  have  grasped  a  shadow.  This  however 
should  not  divert  us  from  the  aim  ;  but  we  ought, 
in  our  endeavours  to  profit  by  time,  to  exert  our 
judgments,  or  we  shall  'ind  ourselves  wofully  dis- 
appointed. Whereas  by  attending  to  this  circum- 
stance in  the  commencement  of  a  tour,  there  will 
most  likely  be  produced  a  happy  issue,  and  the 
Retrospect  such  as  would  be  desired.  Half  is 
already  done,  when  well  begun  ;  and  when  the 
mind  is  fully  bent  upon  an  object,  there  will  be 

A 


m 


'a 


o 


I  jr. 


•,i 


■'I 


no  comparative  difficulty  in  bringing  other  mat- 
ters rightly  to  bear. 

In  the  account  of  the  tour  that  I  am  about  giv- 
ing to  my  readers,  I  have  tried  the  maxim  ;  how 
far  I  have  succeeded  will  be  for  them  to  deter- 
mine. However,  having  a  leisure  month  before 
me,  and  growing  impatient  of  the  confinement  of 
a  large  and  populous  city,  I  thought  I  had  a  mo- 
7nent  to  seize  ;  for  the  improvement  of  health  ; 
the  enjoyment  of  a  survey  of  the  beauties  and 
sublimities  of  nature,  and  the  diversities  of  cha- 
racter which  present  themselves  to  a  traveller. 
I  trust,  therefore,  that  it  will  be  unnecessary  to 
make  any  other  apology  than  that  proposed  in  the 
outset.  If  a  candid  reading  be  allowed  to  the 
production,  there  will  be  a  double  pleasure  added 
to  this  humble  effort,  and  my  utmost  wish  will  be 
realized.  In  confining  myself  to  so  limited  a 
term  not  much  is  assumed,  while  at  the  same 
time  there  exists  a  hope,  that  the  less  interest  will 
not  be  excited  from  an  adherence  to  fact.  With 
these  impressions  I  resolved  to  make  the  trip,  of 
which  the  following  is  a  relation,  and  set  off  from 

in  the  stage,  a  mode  of  travelling  which  is 

very  convenient  and  pleasant,  and  in  a  few  hours 
arrived  at  that  great  and  improving  emporium  of 
commerce,  the  city  of  New- York. 


■•*-•■ 


■■'fr  ^f"^-. 


3 

I  repaired  immediately  to  the  City  Hotel ;  and 
it  being  my  intention  to  make  all  possible  dis- 
patch to  the  northward,  I  shall  not  be  expected 
to  dwell  on  many  particulars,  respecting  this 
place.  In  the  interim  my  time  \vas  taken  up  in 
calling  on  some  acquaintances,  visiting  the  Ton- 
tine and  wharves,  and  walking  about. 

My  observations  before  made  respecting  Neiv- 
Tork  were  now  confirmed  and  digested,  viz.  The 
City  Hall,  Churches  generally,  and  some  of  the 
other  public  buildings  are  superior  to  those  of 
Philadelphia,  in  beauty  of  structure  ;  and  there 
is  considerable  taste  and  elegance  discoverable, 
throughout  the  whole  city.  A  degree  or  novelty 
and  grandeur  is  exhibited,  very  imposing  to  the 
eye  of  a  stranger ;  and  the  bustling  crowd  con- 
stantly passing  through  Broadway  and  Wall- 
street,  indicates  an  unusual  degree  of  commer- 
cial enterprise.  The  private  dwellings  are  re- 
markable for  gayety  and  colours,  more  than  for 
their  neatness  of  arrangement,  workmanship,  or 
materials.  The  plan  of  the  streets  is  by  no 
means  regular,  but  diversified  by  an  agrv^'eable 
variety.  This  circumstance  is  very  apt  to  con- 
fuse a  stranger ;  but  soon  becoming  familiar,  it 
beautifies  and  comprises  itself  so  completely  into 
one  view,  that  there  is  no  kind  of  difficulty  in  at 


'^ 
:>::'% 


■V;'*^ 


4 


«  i. 


■Ul 


iiH 


once  knowing  his  situation,  from  the  constant 
changes  and  distant  marks  presenting  themselves. 
The  city  continues  to  increase  rapidly,  as  also 
the  value  of  property,  especially  in  the  newly 
laid  out  parts ;  where  the  avenues  and  streets 
are  all  contrived  on  a  wide  and  extensive  plan. 
These  improvements  tend  much  to  compensate  the 
total  want  of  order  in  the  original  arrangement 
of  the  streets.  The  Battery  also,  now  undergo- 
ing an  enlargement,  is  certainly  an  elegant  orna- 
ment ;  its  public  walks,  adorned  with  trees,  afford 
a  refreshing  promenade  to  the  citizens. 

For  the  purpose  of  prosecuting  my  intended 
journey  to  Niagara,  I  associated  myself  with  my 

two  friends,  the  reverend  Mr. and  Mr.  — — . 

We  left  New- York,  on  the  30th  of  July,  1822, 
at  4  p.  M.  in  the  steam-boat,  for  Albany. 

It  were  needless  to  take  up  time,  in  describing 
the  usual  incidents  of  this  route,  up  the  North 
river  ;  inasmuch  as  they  have  been  made  familiar, 
by  the  relations  of  former  travellers.  Suffice  it  to 
say,  that  we  enjoyed  the  advantages  of  a  delight- 
ful sail,  by  moon-light.  I'he  Highlands,  when 
seen  under  favourable  circumstances,  cannot  be 
too  much  celebrated,  for  the  boldness  and  gran- 
deur, with  which  they  strike  the  spectator.  The 
surrounding  romantic  scenery  constantly  varies, 


Tfii*'*/ii'»^,»-<" 


!■    il  It  a_'iil^ri    jitij.ii-i»>-tL'^A,-.   . 


■■.Vf*'.^., 


\''f"fjr':;r^7"  -";"T 


by  the  movement  of  the  boat.  Each  beauty  at- 
tracts attention  till  a  new  one  arises,  and  while 
the  unwilling  transfer  takes  place,  an  absorbing- 
thought  dwells  on  its  memory,  to  lull  the  passing 
phantom.  A  calm  stillness  prevailed  at  the  hoar 
of  midnight. — The  buzzing  stir  had  ceased.— 
No  noise  \vas  heard  on  the  unruffled  surface  of 
the  river  ; — when  I  sought  for  my  birth,  and 
sunk  on  my  pillow  to  sleep. 

Juli/  31st.  It  is  a  common  observation,  that  the 
pleasure  of  travelling  consists  principally,  in  the 
variety  of  scenery,  and  agreeableness  of  personages 
met  with.  To  see  these  necessarily  produces  a  new 
train  of  ideas,  and  devests  us  of  partialities. 
The  imagination  In  future  will  expatiate,  and 
dwell  with  gratification  on  what  has  been  seen. 
A  passage  in  the  steam-boat  affords  these  advan- 
tages, in  an  eminent  degree.  It  is  there  that  the 
most  lively  and  diversified  variety  of  persons  :ire 
often  to  be  met  with.  A  number  of  travellers 
coming  together  with  different  views,  are  con- 
strained to  be  in  the  same  company  ;  some  one 
of  whom  is  not  unfrequently  employed  in  per- 
sonating a  ludicrous  character,  for  the  rest,  gratis. 
"  II  ne  faut  donner  exclusion  a  aucune  genre  ;  et 
si  I'on  me  demandoit,  quel  genre  est  le  meilleur  ? 
Je  repondrois,  celui    qui   est  le   mieux  traite." 

A  2 


:  ';h  i 


■'(f 


p^ 


M 


V 
%■ 


It 


^1    V 


t  !•  r 


Such  a  cout-se  of  entertainment  had  amused  a  par- 
ty for  some  time  ;  when  turning  my  attention,  I 
perceived  that  Mr.  F.  had  assumed  a  conspicuous 
station.  This  remarkable  personage  had  a  singu- 
lar talent  for  diversion.  It  consisted  in  that  pe- 
culiarity of  trait,  which  enabled  him  to  enter  into 
any  crowd,  and  immediately  pick  up  the  drift  of 
the  argument  and  conversation  j  or,  with  the 
greatest  facility,  to  play  upon  the  words  of  any 
individual,  so  as  to  turn  aside  entirely  the  bent 
of  his  discourse,  by  leading  him  into  a  dilemma. 
This  he  had  done  several  times  ;  and  I  expected 
every  moment,  that  he  would  meet  with  a  rebuff. 
But  when  this  happened  to  be  the  case,  he  would 
just  as  easily  extricate  himself.  He  flattered,— 
argued, — and  soothed — by  turns  j — he  would 
make  the  whole  company  laugh,  by  a  casual  word 
thrown  in  while  another  was  telling  a  story,  (in 
the  way  of  a  droll  expletive  or  animadversion)  ; 
— and,  when  this  was  done,  it  would  not  be 
known,  whether  the  story  or  his  wit,  was  laughed 
at  most.  It  had  the  effect  however  of  making 
the  narrator  appear  in  a  ludicrous  point  of  view, 
without  the  possibility  of  his  taking  umbrage. 
He  could  not  be  said  to  possess  either  wit  or  wis- 
dom, but  a  certain  unaccountable  power  of  pre- 
varicating or  playing  upon  words. 


fi    \' 


Before  quitting  this  party,  it  occurs  to  me  to 
iremark,  upon  what  I  have  often  observed,  as  ap- 
plying to  certain  individuals,  that  it  must  be  a 
strong  proof,  either  of  a  reflecting  character  in 
reality,  or  a  would  be  thought  so,  to  be  accosted 
frequently  by  persons  only  partially  known,  with 
"  why  so  pensive  ? — what  are  you  thinking  of  ?" 
One  should  endeavour  to  alter  this  scrupulous 
physiognomy,  in  journeying  on;  and  assume  a 
gayety,  the  better  to  disguise  the  thoughts  when 
thus  inclined  ;  but  I  am  rather  disposed  to  think 
this  to  be  a  peculiar  trait  of  locality  in  near  affinity 
with  pride,  and  more  especially  applicable  to  the 
reserve,  and  unqualified  manners  of  some  high- 
toned  and  homespun  gentlemen  of  a  neighbouring 
city.  For  which  useless  and  unfortunate  charac- 
ter, I  would  suggest  travelling  a  little  out  of  the 
infected  district,  as  the  best  antidote  to  remove 
the  poison,  and  produce  amendment.  This  fea- 
ture, I  think,  may  be  discovered  in  those  who  have 
resided  long  in  particular  places  ;  and  the  re- 
verse, when  such  persons  have  been  some  time 
absent  from  home  j — by  their  altered  manners. 


I'/i 


>•' 


•( 


1 


•L^*,*v!J'ili4.'ii^-iril^ysi.l'?'-.*-ii.  IM 


■  ■^<if.:l...:,X'^^. 


,kL,,-ji^'h 


"■=k 


CHAPTER  11. 

Environs  of  Albany— Schenectady — Villages  and  scenery  on 
the  road — Utica — Tavern  tea-party— Conversation. 


Mi 


At  Albany  there  was  not  much  time  to  remain, 
as  we  had  concluded  to  leave  it,  at  3  p.  m.  for 
Schenectady  ;  and  accordingly,  at  the  hour  ap- 
pointed, the  stage  was  ready  at  the  door,  and  we 
drove  off. 

The  route  exhibits  no  very  pleasing  appear- 
ance. As  respects  cultivation  there  is  not  the 
same  face,  which  might  naturally  be  supposed  at 
this  season.  In  fact,  not  so  much  as  a  crop  of 
any  description  is  to  be  seen,  and  vegetation  in 
many  places  almost  has  ceased,  in  consequence  of 
a  long  continued  drought.  The  soil  is  not  good, 
and  abounds  chiefly  in  fir  and  pine  trees,  which 
appear  to  have  been  set  on  fire  for  the  purpose  of 
clearing  them  off.  Those  which  have  been  cut 
down,  have  a  very  high  stump  standing,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  operation  having  taken  place  in 
the  winter  season,  when  the  snow  is  deep.  This 
gives  the  fields  a  gloomy  appearance,  and  it  is  not 


^1 


rl 


"V- 


10 


%  i 


improved,  by  the  manner  in  which  the  fences  are 
constructed,  out  of  large  logs. 

'S'chenectady  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of 
the  Mohawk  river.  This  town  is  somewhat  re- 
markable for  an  odd,  antique  form,  in  which  the 
older  houses  are  all  constructed  ;  but  in  the  more 
improved  parts,  this  deficiency  is  entirely  recti- 
fied, and  there  appears  considerable  beauty  of 
arrangement  j  as  also  in  the  streets  and  houses, 
in  which  they  resemble  the  well  laid  out  parts 
of  the  fine  cities.  There  is  a  great  preference 
over  Albany,  in  respect  to  elegance.  The  college 
consists  of  two  brick  edifices,  at  a  small  distance 
from  the  town,  on  the  past  side.  The  canal  passes 
through  the  town,  near  its  centre.  They  have 
advanced  rapidly  in  this  great  work  ;  which  will 
no  doubt  in  time  be  productive  of  considerable 
advantages  in  a  commercial  point  of  view. 

August  1st.  The  road  to  Utica  passes  along 
the  north  bank  of  the  Mohawk  river,  through  an 
agreeable  valley.  The  whole  is  interspersed  with 
a  variegated  scenery,  and  improvements  are  going 
on  rapidly  ;  particularly  on  the  canal.  We  pass- 
ed through  several  thriving  villages ;  among 
which  may  be  named,  as  the  principal,  Amster- 
da7n,  Manheim^  Little  Falls,  HeriimeryZnd  Schuy- 
kr.    They  are  in  a  flourishing  condition.     What 


-A,  4(1,. 


^^»*,  -'-*-''**iiiMiiMMgiV',iiiii^ipiM>  t^mnutmimm 


11 


e  fences  are 


chiefly  tends  to  make  them  interesting,  is,  that 
they  appear  all  newly  built,  and  there  is  a  degree 
of  cheerfulness  discernible  in  the  physiognomy 
of  the  various  inhabitants. 

This  valley  is  interspersed  with  a  pleasing  va- 
riety of  houses,  on  both  sides  of  the  river.  The 
scenery  is  of  the  liveliest  cast,  intermingled  with 
hill  and  dale.  But  as  the  harvest  has  just  been 
gathered,  the  appearances  are  not  quite  so  fa- 
vourable as  they  would  previously  have  been. 
Hay-making  was  principally  the  employment,  in 
which  the  farmers  were  at  this  time  engaged. 

The  village  of  Little  Falls  is  the  most  romantic 
through  which  we  have,  as  yet,  passed.  It  has 
taken  the  name  from  the  falls  at  this  place ;  but 
these  descending  gradually  over  an  uneven  bed  of 
rocks,  may  more  properly  be  called  the  rapids  of 
the  Mohaxvk.  You  have  a  fine  view  immediately 
on  leaving  the  village,  when  the  road  passes  along 
their  whole  length,  for  the  distance  of  about  eigh- 
ty rods.  On  leaving  these  the  road  extends  over 
an  alluvial  soil,  through  the  valley  of  Mohaxvk. 
The  land  here  is  good,  and  much  more  diversified 
with  cultivation.  The  eye  is  frequently  relieved 
from  the  disagreeable  inconvenience  of  uniformi- 
ty, by  the  gradual  rise  of  hills  at  a  distance, — b)- 
the  verdure  of  meadows,  and  the  smoothly  fiow- 


,-, 


"y  S  i 


....y 


*>1!-. 


^^i^^- 


..^: 


12 


ing  current  of  the  Mohawk.  Occasionally  pre- 
sents itself  to  view,  the  slow  moving  scow  pad- 
dled down  the  stream,  with  provisions  and  lumber 
for  an  uncertain  market.  The  canal  passes  along 
on  th«.  soulh  siile  of  the  river.  All  these  circum- 
stances conspire  to  give  the  traveller  an  idea  of 
the  rapidity  of  the  progress,  M'ith  which  that 
spot  has  yielded  to  the  encroachments  of  the 
husbandman,  although  once  the  scene  of  wars 
and  tumult,  (hulng  the  American  revolution  ; 
once,  nay  ofiencr  ))erhaps,  of  Indian  bloodshed, 
or  even  where  the  savage  beast  has  roamed  to 
seek  for  prey. — How  great  the  change  ! — how  the 
scene  has  altered  ! — now  there  is  afforded  shelter 
and  repose,  in  which  the  herds  are  grazing  ; — 
now  the  ploughshare  lifts  the  sod  ; — and  crops  of 
grain  the  harvest  crown. 

Herkimer  is  the  next  village  through  which  we 
passed.  This  name  is  given  to  an  extent  of  fif- 
teen miles,  including  Little  I'alls,  along  the  banks 
of  the  Mohawk.  Soon  afterwards  we  arrived  at 
the  uninteresting  village  of  Sihutjler^  and  thence 
passed  through  a  flat  countrv,  which,  though  not 
much  cultivated,  contains  a  rich  soil,  and  is  well 
timbered.  There  appeared,  nov^?  and  tlien,  some 
good  houses  at  a  distance,  belonging,  no  doubt, 
to  wealthy  farmers  ;  as  the  land  grew  move  im- 


13 

proved  in  the  vicinity  of  Utica,  these  increased, 
and  we  could  form  an  idea  of  a  town  of  consider- 
able note,  on  proceeding  towards  this  flourish- 
ing place. 

We  entered  Utica  at  about  5  p.  m.  Various 
reports  of  its  beauty  and  improvements  having 
reached  us,  there  is  on  such  occasions  naturally 
excited  an  unusual  degree  of  interest.  A  zest 
is  given  to  relieve  the  traveller,  from  the  fatigue 
of  a  long  day's  ride,  and  a  dusty  journey,  with 
even  this  prospect.  As  the  expectation  is  thus 
formed,  the  mind  becomes  aroused,  and  conse- 
quently the  effect  is  much  the  greater.  The  first 
appearance  of  this  town  was  such  as  did  not  dis- 
appoint these  anticipations.  Crossing  the  bridge 
over  the  Mohawk,  we  immediately  entered  the 
town,  and  drove  to  the  inn,  which  is  commodious- 
ly  situated  at  the  left  corner,  at  the  junction  of 
several  roads. 

Having  prepared  ourselves  for  a  walk  and  visit, 
by  shaving,  dressing,  &c.  we  stopped  to  take  tea, 
which  was  just  ready  before  setting  off.  It  ap- 
peared to  me  rather  unusual,  at  an  inn,  to  see  the 
prim  stateliness  of  a  young  lady  in  ruffles, 
starched  up  to  the  chin,  preparing  to  pour  out. 
The  party  at  length  succeeded  in  getting  served, 
each  with  a  cup  of  milk  slop,  or  tea  water.     Not 

B 


4  ■-  jir' 


M 


it 


•■■*'^vi-...^M??*°"^;'- 


">K„iii^(L'* 


r* 


i 


rrL  V    ■< 


14 

even  a  solitary  request  was  asked  of  •*  Sir^  is  your 
tea  agreeable  ?" — and  sooner  much,  would  I  take 
it  as  it  was,  or  take  none  at  all,  than  make  a  fuss 
at  a  Tavern  tea-party.  Any  thing  of  this  kind  of 
mock  gentility  is  bad  enough,  elsewhere ;  but 
after  a  dusty  stage-coach  ride,  to  be  thus  incom- 
moded with  formalities  is  not  only  sickening,  but 
ridiculous  in  the  extreme.  So  from  this  comfort- 
less meal,  and  in  no  amiable  humour  for  our  visit, 
we  sought  amends,  by  sallying  out  in  quest  of 
adventures.  At  the  upper  part  of  the  town,  leav^- 
ing  the  road  which  crosses  the  canal,  and  proceed- 
ing towards  a  church  to  the  right,  one  of  my  com- 
panions asked  the  name  of  the  clergyman,  and 
where  he  lived.  The  person  whom  he  addressed 
made  no  reply,  which  he  taking  for  a  specimen  of 
civility  not  precisely  to  his  liking,  went  off  as 
wise  as  he  came. 

We  succeeded  however  in  finding  the  house  of 
Mr.  A.  and  were  received  by  his  wife  and  sister. 
Their  extreme  readiness  of  apprehension  and 
volubility,  joined  to  a  dispositon  to  be  pleasing, 
contributed  to  render  interesting  the  greatest  part 
of  an  hour's  conversation.  While  my  two  friends 
were  fully  occupied  in  keeping  up  the  parley  with 
Mrs.  A.  the  unmarried  lady  seemed  to  fall  to  my 
share.  Several  cross  shafts  of  wit  and  repartee 
were  directed  on  each  side,  and  though  not  al- 


'"i^itf^jKai! 


■n.--.- 


"■■awwo' 


16 

ways  of  the  most  cordial  kind,  verged  orrasion- 
ally  towards  an  agreement,  though  in  opposite 
directions.  The  conversation  turned  upon  cler- 
gymen's wives,  and  their  requisite  qualifications. 
She  affirmed  that  a  certain  Mr. ol*  Philadel- 
phia, had  married  the  most  accomplished  lady  in  the 
place.  I  could  not  assent  to  this,  declaring,  with 
due  submission,  the  thing  improbable,  or  at  least 
difficult  to  be  ascertained.  Let  the  lady  be  who 
she  would,  I  said  there  might  be  found  her  equal. 
This  was  with  difficulty  admitted.  My,  combat- 
ant accused  me  immediately  of  being  a  Philadel- 
phian  ;  which  could  not  be  deduced  from  the  pre- 
mises, unless  at  the  same  school,  that  was  capable 
of  distinguishing  the  best  educated  lady.  Not 
further  able  to  settle  it,  she  seemed  satisfied  with 
conceding  the  point  at  issue,  on  the  basis  of  ac- 
commodation. The  introduction  of  the  word 
one  was  admitted,  to  settle  the  mutual  difference  ; 
and  thus  the  limited  term  of  classification,  among 
the  well  educated  ladies  of  Philadelphia  was  pre- 
served. 

We  had  no  sooner  thus  settled  matters,  than  my 
fair  antagonist  turned  the  subject  to  a  comparison 
of  the  advantages  of  Utica,  with  those  of  other 
situations  in  the  state.  In  this  she  maintained 
her  position  with  much  adroitness,  and  upon  very 


i^«u'ir-...--ai.'  L»  ■•, 


P«W».T?«T''^'* 


wi»fa««li^iB&-i.«.1 .  .    <■' 


16 


good  grounds. — She  proceeded  to  speak  of  a  fine 
water-falls,  within  about  fifteen  miles  ;  to  which 
she  recommended  a  visit.  The  preference  was 
given  to  Niagara  in  point  of  sublimity,  while  she 
assured  me,  in  some  respects,  it  was  not  inferior 
in  beauty  and  romantic  scenery.  It  is  useless  to 
add  that  these  flattering  representations  were  not 
sufficient  to  induce  a  change  in  the  route,  which 
we  had  originally  determined  on  pursuing.  As  to 
climate,  Utica  is  extremely  moist  and  cold.  In  the 
latter  respect,  she  supposed,  it  was  equal  to  the 
extreme  temperature  experienced  in  Russia ;  and 
tipon  so  broad  a  latitude,  it  would  be  needless  not 
to  assent,  as  this  climate  will  correspond,  some 
where  or  other,  with  most  in  America.  ,  ^z, 
By  this  time  my  two  companions  had  entered 
into  conversation  concerning  a  learned  ministry  ; 
which  though  the  ladies  did  not  altogether  con- 
sider as  essentially  requisite,  they  were,  however, 
ready  to  admit,  that  some  classical  learning,  as 
also,  a  competent  knowledge  of  Greek,  to  read  the 
Testament,  and  an  acquaintance  with  history,  were 
necessary.  Not  being  able  to  determine  the  point 
at  issue,  and  willing  to  press  these  female  con- 
noisseurs no  further  than  prudence  dictated,  we 
concluded  una  voce,  to  put  an  end  to  the  visit, 
and  return  to  our  lodgings. 


•  'A* 


",        ,:  CHAPTER  III. 

AccesBions  to  the  party—Villages— Breakfast— Oneida  Cas- 
tie — Plains  and  Forest  scenery — Observations  on  the  In- 
dians :  Melioration  proposed. 

On  Friday  morning  (the  2d  August)  vre  were 
aroused  at  the  early  hour  of  half  past  three ;  hav- 
ing renewed  the  journey,  our  party  had  received 
an  accession  of  two  ladies,  on  their  way  home  to 
the  state  of  Ohio.  They  were  accompanied  by 
a  prim  looking  beau,  whom  they  called  Doctor, 
and  who  from  his  appearance  might  have  belong- 
ed to  the  society  of  Friends.  It  so  happened,  in 
the  arrangement,  that  the  two  ladies  and  myself 
occupied  the  back  seat.  After  the  salutations, 
or  nodding  so  usual  in  a  mornino^'s  ride,  but  not 
quite  severe  enough  to  prevent  sleep  (for  which 
impoliteness  in  the  company  of  ladies  surely 
there  needs  some  apology)  I  earnestly  endea- 
voured to  make  amends,  as  soon  as  daylight  ap- 
peared. But  several  unsuccessful  attempts  prov- 
ed to  me,  how  impolitic  it  was  not  to  commence 
at  once,  if  any  one  would  wish  to  gain  favour 

B  2 


■.I  irii    »i>lM*¥0lltlfh«L\~ 


It 


•^1' 


18 

with  the  ladies  ;  for  by  this  time,  no  exertions  on 
my  part  were  sufficient.     It  was  necessary  to  put 
on  the  best  face  possible,  and  endure  the  mortifi- 
cation till  breakfast  time  ;  after  which,  at  the  so- 
licitation of  one  of  my  companions,  I  resigned 
my  seat,  and  I  may  add,  with  much  willingness. 
It  became  a  desirable  post  to  several  of  the  rest 
of  the  party  soon  afterwards  in  turn  ;  but  all 
were  equally   discomfited.     There  appeared   an 
utter  aversion  to  conversation  in  the  two  ladies  ; 
nothing  but  a  sedate  look  or  a  solitary  negative 
could  be  obtained,  in  reply  to  the  politest  atten- 
tions.    The  younger  lady  would  probably  have 
been  more  affable,  but  that  she  was  engaged  in 
reading  a  novel,  and  before  she  opened  the  book, 
she  was  prevented  by  the  other  ;  who  having  as- 
sumed the  middle  place,  had  caused  a  separation 
between  her  and  the  gentleman  that  occupied  the 
remaining  part  of  the  back  seat,  and  thus  cut  off 
the  communication.     This  crooked  piece  of  fur- 
niture so  incommoded  the  harmony  of  our  com- 
pany, that  we  were  necessarily  obliged  to  be  se- 
cluded.    She  was,  no  doubt,  some  disappointed 
maiden,  and  from  the  settled  appearance  of  habit, 
which  she  assumed,  she  had  determined  to  remain 
so.     In  this  there  is  an  excuse,  for  at  the  age  of 
three-and-thirty,  giris  arrive  at  a  peculiar  accura- 


>'«"  i 


19 


cy  in  these  matters,  and  seldom  fail,  as  they  ac- 
quire dislike  for  those  intruders  around  them,  to 
express  their  feelings  in  terms  of  suUenness  and 
disapprobation.  To  complete  the  list  of  our 
stage-party,  there  were  a  Scotch  gentleman,  a 
New-Yorker,  and  a  Virginian  ;  but  neither  was 
likely  to  succeed  in  making  an  acquaintance  with 
the  ladies.  The  first  afforded  considerable  amuse- 
ment by  placing  a  joke  upon  the  Virginian, 
who  having  occupied  a  station  in  the  rear  guard^ 
was  obliged  to  retreat  with  falling  colours.  These 
circumstances  contributed  to  heighten  the  socia- 
bility and  amusement  of  the  greatest  part  of  our 
company,  who  had  been  travelling  together  for 
nearly  two  days ;  and  thus  the  morning  passed  off 
very  pleasantly.  •  •  ' 

For  a  short  distance  out  of  Utica,  the  improve- 
ments are  very  considerable,  and  the  country 
pleasant ;  being  interspersed  with  gradual  emi- 
nences, and  sloping  grounds.  A  little  further  it 
assumes  a  very  different  appearance,  from  a  dis- 
continuance of  cultivation,  and  a  more  rough  and 
barren  soil.  A  tattered  frame  or  log  hut  supplies 
the  place  of  the  wealthy  farmer's  more  commo- 
dious habitation. 

In  four  miles  after  leaving  Utica  you  arrive  at 
the  village  of  New-Hartfordi  and  thence  to  West- 


\'i 


t 

If 


T*  "* » 


'r 


20 


7nor€land,  is  seven  miles  further.  The  villages 
along  this  road  are  chiefly  interesting  from  their 
construction ;  the  houses  being  built  of  brick  very 
frequently,  and  in  other  respects  quite  commo- 
dious. The  contrast  is  more  remarkable  to  a 
traveller  immediately  after  passing  through  them, 
on  finding  an  unbroken  extent  of  forest,  where 
the  axe  and  plough  have  not  pierced,  beyond  the 
distance  of  half  a  mile  from  the  road.  Within 
that  space  are  seen,  here  and  there,  a  few  log  huts 
scattered  among  the  scanty  enclosures  which  are 
encumbered  by  the  huge  remnants  of  dead  trees, 
half  standing  or  spreading  their  wasteful  branches 
over  the  soil.  These  are  the  most  uninteresting 
appearances  presented  in  the  western  countries ; 
where  the  deep  shade  of  the  woods  is  cast  over 
hill  and  dale,  and  a  dull  and  contracted  boundary 
is  produced  in  the  horizon.  Perhaps  the  want 
of  cultivation  has  been  occasioned,  more  particu- 
larly in  this  place,  by  reason  of  certain  unsettled 
claims  in  the  tenure  of  lands. 

The  next  village  which  we  came  to  was  VernoUy 
where  a  considerable  number  of  the  Oneida  and 
Tuscarora  Indians  reside.  It  is  distant  from  Utica 
about  nineteen  miles.  Here  we  breakfasted  with 
a  pretty  keen  appetite,  and  set  forward  again  in 
high  spirits.    This  is  a  kind  of  grateful  interlude 


21 


or  recreation  in  travelling  ;  and,  let  the  company 
be  ever  so  dull,  a  good  meal  has  a  wonderful  ef- 
fect. The  barrenness  of  the  country  and  want 
of  prospects,  were  in  some  measure  compensated 
by  entertaining  conversation,  till  we  approached 
an  Indian  reservation.  Soon  afterwards  we  came 
in  sight  of  a  neat  church,  whose  spire  pointed 
above  the  wood.  In  this  spot,  retired  and  plea- 
sant to  appearance,  is  the  Oneida  tribe  of  Indians 
taught  by  Mr.  W.  to  respect  and  worship  the 
God,  whom  Christians  bow  to,  with  humble  re- 
verence. The  doctrines  of  Christ  and  his  disci- 
ples are  there  impressed  upon  the  breast  of  the 
savage  inhabitant  of  the  desert,  and  the  fulfilment 
of  the  promise  of  the  great  Head  of  the  Church, 
is  perspicuous  ;  to  be  with  her  "  alway^  even  un- 
to the  end  of  the  world.^"*  The  place  is  called 
Oneida  castle^  but  no  trace  now  remains  of  that 
from  whence  the  name  is  derived.  ■        ':,      •    *^ 

This  reservation  of  the  Indians,  we  were  now 
passing  through,  and  were  occasionally  diverted 
by  a  few  whom  we  met  on  the  road.  A  number 
of  children  came  running  after  the  stage,  for  the 
purpose  of  soliciting  a  charitable  donation ;  but 
our  party  did  not  conceive  it  necessary  to  be  thus 
excited,  except  in  one  instance,  where  it  was  giv- 
en more  as  a  reward  for  running,  than  from  the 


(:/ 


'---Ta'yffb'ii  '.luupwinn 


4Mi«MiMMiMH 


fi 


22 


hope  of  any  advantage  to  the  receiver :  or  proba- 
bly it  was  conferred  out  of  complaisance  to  the 
beauty  of  a  young  squaw,  keeping  pace  with 
our  course  for  a  considerable  length  of  time. 
She  had  the  fleetness  of  a  deer,  and  from  this  cir- 
cumstance as  well  as  the  dress,  it  was  not  easy 
to  conjecture  her  sex:  for  there  was  much  inte- 
rest excited  and  a  variety  of  opinion  concerning 
this  matter.  She  soon  afterwards  quitted  the 
pursuit,  to  make  a  display,  probably  among  her 
gaping  kinsfolk,  of  what  had  been  given  j  and 
we  were  agam  left  to  our  contemplations. 

Soon  after  this,  compelled  by  the  steepness  of 
a  hill,  one  milt  and  a  half  in  length,  we  descend- 
cd  for  the  purpose  of  walking.  At  the  top  an 
extensive  plain  opens  to  view,  and  a  monotony  of 
flat  and  uninteresting  country  succeeds.  The 
forest  in  all  its  native  wildness  has  not  ceased  to 
usurp  the  wonted  range  of  dominion  i  nor  even 
the  savage  beast,  still  prowling  through  the  de- 
sert, to  echo  a  shrill  and  tremendous  yelling.  ^. 

In  passing  through  countries,  where  the  In- 
dians once  reigned  lords  of  the  forest,  the  mind 
will  dwell  upon  the  sorry  remnants  of  their  tribes. 
Though  the  causes  of  their  sad  condition  are  in 
a  great  measure  evident,  it  is  not  quite  within  the 
pale  of  human  wisdom  to  fix  them  definitivti.!^. 


\> 


>  >\ 


23 


I  am  fully  aware  of  the  difficulty,  previously  to 
undertaking  to  throw  together  a  few  remarks, 
which  have  occasionally  occurred  upon  this  sub- 
ject. The  information  which  I  have  derived  from 
conversing,  with  persons  who  have  lived  among 
them,  together  with  my  own  observations,  on  the 
ineffectual  attempts  at  <:ivilization,  have  produc- 
ed the  piesent  reflections. 

As  to  the  falling  greatness  of  this  people,  and 
in  some  instances  the  extinction  of  whole  tribes 
from  their  native  soil,  the  effect  perceived  is  too 
lamentable  to  admit  of  controversy :  according 
to  the  advances  and  improvement  of  the  white 
population,  is  to  be  found  a  corresponding  dimi- 
nution of  the  red.  Such  is  the  fact,  presented 
in  the  history  of  our  own  country :  and  while  we 
take  a  view  of  the  various  circumstances,  which 
have  produced  this  effect;  let  us  not  forget,  that 
the  retreating  savage,  possesses  a  native  spirit, 
which  entitles  him  to  a  more  enninent  place 
among  the  rational  part  of  Creation.  The  savage 
has  virtues ;  he  values  his  ancestry  and  patrimonial 
estates,  and  boasts  of  a  distinct  though  falling 
race.  His  faults  lie  principally  in  an  unsubdued 
temperament  of  disposition,  which  disqualifies 
h^m  for  any  change  of  primitive  habit. 

The  Indian  village,  which  has  just  come  under 


\i 


': 


.V 


I 


'.-  :xi.9v..mi 


•mm 


!>'' 


{\ 


I  I 


if 


observation,  contains  the  remnant  of  a  few  scat- 
tered huts.  There  remains  but  a  vestige  of  the 
inhabitants,  who  once  existed  in  this  place.  Their 
original, — the  Mohawk  language,  has  still  main- 
tained its  purity  ;  and  their  customs  and  man- 
ners remain  nearly  the  same,  notwithstanding  fre- 
quent communications  among  friendly  white 
neighbours.  Some  local  attachments,  however, 
have  prepossessed  them,  in  favour  of  the  spot; 
which  they  refuse  to  sell,  although  every  year 
renders  the  game  more  shy  and  scarce,  and  the 
difficulties  of  the  chase  consequently  more  irk- 
some. 

Similar  to  thi*^,  there  may  be  found  many  other 
tribes  of  Indians,  compelled  to  become  cultiva- 
tors of  the  soil,  and  to  relinquish  gradually  the 
occupation  of  hunting.  But  scarcely  does  it  ap- 
pear, that  they  deserve  the  name,  so  reluctantly 
do  they  undertake,  and  so  unskilfully  perform,  a 
part  the  very  reverse  of  their  original  habits. 
The  circumstance  giving  rise,  to  the  above,  is  the 
following.  In  the  sales  of  territory,  between  the 
native  tribes  of  Indians  and  the  United  States, 
a  reservation  was  sometimes  made  of  certain 
tracts,  by  the  original  proprietors.  In  this  case, 
as  soon  as  the  game  begins  to  disappear  with  the 
receding  forest,  and    consequently  the  toils    of 


9^ 


hunting  are  increased,  the  wilder  hunter  is  dispos- 
ed to  seek  for  new  grounds,  while  the  less  robust, 
or  perhaps  more  peaceable,  contents  himself  with 
supplying  the  deficiency,  by  tilling  the  lands. 
Thus  an  emigration  of  part  of  the  tribe  takes 
place ;  inasmuch  as  the  reservation  is  not  suffi- 
cient, for  the  maintenance  of  the  whole.  This 
happens,  not  unfrequently,  with  regard  to  the 
larger  body,  while  what  the  Indians  term  the 
lazier,  are  left  behind. 

The  American  government  have  always  been 
disposed  to  exercise  a  humane  policy,  towards  the 
native  tribes.  Agents  with  fixed  salaries,  have 
been  appointed,  throughout  the  western  country, 
with  whom  a  fair  trade  might  be  carried  on,  and 
appeals  made  by  the  Indians,  in  case  of  contro- 
versy. A  price  thus  fixed  by  the  government, 
must  consequently  be  attended  to  by  private  tra- 
ders in  order  to  secure  custom,  and  promote  ho- 
nest dealing.  By  this  intervention  of  the  legis- 
lature, and  philanthropic  conduct  of  individuals, 
every  advantage  has  been  offered  to  the  peaceable, 
to  settle  down  to  habits  of  industry.  Yet  what 
has  been  the  issue  of  these  experiments  ?  Do  we 
not  rather  find  them  prompted  by  humane,  than 
judicious  motives  ?  It  is  lamentable  indeed,  to 
behold  how  futile  have  been  all  the  attempts,  ei- 

c 


:?i 


■^-*: 


26 


H 


i  h 


n 


'.!• 


6  17  i 


ther  of  government,  societies,  or  individuals, 
to  establish  a  connecting  link,  between  civilized 
and  uncivilized  society.  The  condition  of  the 
half-civilized  Indian,  has  not  been  materially  be- 
nefited. His  mind  has  become  less  active,  his  bo- 
dy enfeebled,  and  his  cabin  the  receptacle  of  sloth 
and  filthiness.  Scarcely  an  instance  is  known  of 
an  Indian  emerging  from  an  uncivilized  state, 
without  sinking  in  the  scale  of  being.  ^  ,,,  ,.,.,,, 
For  this  there  appear  two  probable  causes.  1  lie 
one  is,  that  being  too  much  attached  to  primitive 
habits  to  be  separated  from  them,  as  constituting 
what  he  conceives  to  be  the  dignity  of  his  race,  the 
more  noble  genius  will  not  brook  confinement : 
happiness  and  liberty  to  him  are  convertible 
terms  ; — his  liberty  is  unlimited  range  ; — so  that 
none  but  the  tamer  sort  become  subjects.  The 
other  cause  is,  that  between  the  Indian  and  the 
white  population,  there  exists  too  great  a  disparity 
of  habits.  The  extremes  between  savage  and  civil- 
ized life,  require  no  ordinary  method  of  recon- 
ciliation. Had  the  one  been  less  civilized,  and 
the  other  less  savage,  they  might  more  easily 
have  amalgamated  in  interest  and  disposition.* 

*It  occurs  to  the  writer  to  acknowledge  liimsclf  indebted 
for  information  on  this  subject,  to  a  recent  publication  enti- 
tled ;  "  Views  of  society  and  manners  in  Amsrica" — He  also 
takes  the  opportunity  of  mentioning,  what  came  under  his 


55^ 


27 

When,  under  the  protection  of  our  laws,  it  has 
[happened  that  the   scattered  remnants  of  these 
tribes  of  Aborigines  have   settled  down  among 
the    whites,    to    husbandry  or  very  often  to  a 
trifling    occupation,    some  dreadful  fatality  has 
caused  them  to  dwindle  imperceptibly  from  the 
soil,  by  falling  a  prey  to  intemperance  and  the 
j vilest  habits.     Such  has  been  the  inevitable  re- 
sult, notwithstanding  all  efforts  to  reclaim  them  ; 
land  (without  calling  these  efforts  in  question) 
there  can  be  no  satisfactory  method  of  accounting 
for  the  misfortune,  unless  by  referring  it  to  a  des- 
tiny beyond  individual  or  legislative  interference. 
[However  promising  the  situation  and  progress  of 
[society  once  were  among  the  Aborigines  of  Ame- 

Bmmediate  notice  in  the  course  of  the  route;  particularly, 
[as  instances  of  this  nature  but  rarely  occur,  among  the  abori> 
[ginal  inhabitants  of  Amercia,  and  the  new  settlers.  I  travelled 
[in  company  with  an  engineer  of  our  army,  who  since  the  last 
[war  had  united   himself  in  the  bonds  of  Hymen  with  a  fair 

Bquaw.  There  appeared  every  indication  of  harmony  subsist- 
|ing  between  this  couple.    They  conversed  in  the  Indian  lan- 

l^uage,  but  occasionally  in  English  ;  with  the  latter  she  did  not 

leem  very  familiar.  Her  manners  were  becoming,  and  she  had 
ladopted  the  usages  and  dress  of  civilized  society.  She  ap- 
ipeared  to  possess  an  amiable  temper,  and  to  her  two  young 
[children,  a  lovely  girl  and  a  boy,  acted  the  part  of  a  most  affee. 

tionate  mother. 


.■■'.»■ 


28 


!■■ 


rica,  that  unhappy  race  is  now  every  where 
threatened  with  decay  and  dissolution  ;  and  such 
has  been  the  tendency,  ever  since  the  first  arrival 
of  the  Europeans.  In  the  conquest  of  Mexico 
and  Peru,  and  the  distribution  of  power  which 
succeeded  it,  the  page  of  history  is  blackened  with 
transactions  of  infamy  and  horror.  From  many 
causes  the  sufferings  of  the  savages  have  kept  pace 
with  the  progress  of  civilization,  and  the  increase 
of  their  white  neighbours  :  till  the  heart  of  pity 
bursts  on  beholding  the  misery  and  destruction, 
for  which  no  remedy  has  yet  been  devised.  The 
vices  which  have  been  taught  and  the  diseases 
spread  among  them,  all  point  to  the  same  sources. 
The  constant  advances  made  into  their  ter- 
ritories, have  excited  prejudices  against  our  arts 
and  improvements,  and  contempt  for  our  morals 
and  commerce.  The  savage  on  being  introduced 
to  civilized  society,  is  found  to  imbibe  a  taste  for 
slothfulness,  and  the  worst  of  practices.  He 
copies  the  evils  without  seeking  the  good.  Every 
Species  of  employment,  where  atten  on  is  re- 
quisite, becomes  irksome  to  him,  as  incongruous 
to  former  habits.  Calculations  are  what  he  has 
never  learnt  to  make  ;  and  therefore,  that  which 
does  not  afford  an  immediate  promise  of  benefit, 
as  sowing  the  fields  or  any  kind  of  labour,  will 


'     Hlf  rOlll  If*tr1lll 


)n ;  and  such 


not  be  undertaken  but  with  reluctance.  Remov- 
ed from  his  wonted  rang<  of  the  forest,  he  loses 
all  stimulus  to  exertion,  and  the  surrounding  ob- 
jects create  no  interest. 

For  these  causes,  so  deleterious  to  the  race  and 
apparently  irremediable,  it  were  in  vain  to  attempt 
accounting  in  a  satisfactory  manner.  When  we 
add  to  the  above  list  of  causes,  the  blood-thirsty 
>vars,  which  so  often  have  desolated  this  unfor- 
tunate people,  the  period  may  not  be  far  distant, 
of  their  total  extermination.  But  let  it  be  re- 
membered, by  the  followers  of  the  ever  blessed 
Jesus,  that  the  bounds  of  his  kingdom  are  illi- 
anitable.  Under  his  banner,  may  the  unsubdued 
spirit  of  the  Indian  be  enlisted.  They  too  arc 
a  portion  of  the  human  family,  still  to  be  reclaim- 
ed. It  is  true,  the  habits  of  their  whole  life  are 
averse  to  any  change  ;  the  charms  of  the  hun- 
ter's life  are  not  easily  effaced  from  the  remem- 
brance; the  ungoverned  passions  and  every  natu- 
ral feeling  rise  up  in  opposition.  Let  this  be  ad- 
mitted, and  the  Christian  religion  will  remove  all 
difficulty  ;  more  than  this  has  been  done,  wherever 
the  unconverted  have  been  reclaimed.  The  dif- 
ference between  the  natural  and  spiritual  man  are 
still  wider,  than  those  which  exist  between  an 
uncivilized  and  a  civilized  state. 

c  2 


if 


4  ■■ 


.***•*  »^  T  ■  * 


^t¥>^» 


((   ;\ 


M 


\  i' 


■%• 


It  must  be  confessed,  that  time  is  necessary  for 
the  accomplishment  of  this  benevolent  purpose. 
But  without   religion,  it  does  not  appear,  that 
there  ever  has  been  an  equal  degree  of  success, 
to  that  which  has  been  attained  under  its  influ- 
ences.    The  most  effectual  means  would  be,    for 
suitable  teachers  to  be  chosen,  who  would  be  wil- 
ling to  devote  their  lives  to  the  cause  of  Christ. 
This  is  absolutely  requisite,  in  order  to  unite  the  two 
opposite  interests  of  the  Indian  and  the  white  man. 
The  latter  must  go  to  the  former,  and  assimilate 
with  him  in  part ;  in  order  to  convince,  and  by  im- 
perceptible degrees,  gain  his  affection.     The  In- 
dians must  be  led,  as  it  were,  by  means  unknown 
to   themselves,   to  adopt  the   experience,  which 
time  has  proved  beneficial.     Those  associations 
implanted    with   their    very  existence,    must  be 
gradually  rooted  out,  before  they  can  be  persuad- 
ed to  relinquish   their  ways,  and  adopt  precepts, 
at   which   their  ancestors   would  have  spurned: 
Let  them  be   kept  at  a  distance   from  the   white 
settlements.     Let  no  opposite,  or  contending  in- 
terest be  interposed.     In  this  way  the  liable  cor- 
ruptions of  human  nature,  would  give  place  to 
the  mild  principles  of  morality,  and  the  labours 
of  the  missionary  flourish,  under  the  gospel  influ- 
ence.    Then,  and  not  till  then,  will  the  happiness 


31 

and  prosperity  of  the  savage  race  be  meliorated ; 
and  a  lustre  of  the  brightest  cast,  dispersed  over 
the  Christian  world.  Then  indeed,  will  "  the 
bright  and  morning  star^^  glitter  in  our  west- 
ern hemisphere :  "  The  wolf  also  shall  dwell  with 
the  lamb"  and  then  will  ihe  savage  tenants  of  the 
forest  be  known  as  disciples  of  that  master,  whose 
doctrines  teach  them,  to  "  love  one  another," 


<,. 


I* 


,1 

At 


I: 


>^v3l 


>  T.I ^  (X 


■*>;-% 


T/ 


immmmmmimmmiiimif^tmiin 


;■:■:' V 


(/ 


■■>  i' 


i  -  r   'V^ 


WW 


-!WW^'M-»* 


-      CHAPTER  IV. 

villages: — Scenery  and  incidents — Auburn:    The  Prison: 
Theological  Seminary. 


The  observations  in  the  last  chapter  having 
occasioned  some  digression,  it  will  be  necessary 
to  resume  the  subject  of  our  route,  after  quitting 
the  territory  of  the  Indians.  We  soon  passed 
Sullivan,  and  approached  a  village  which  has  re- 
ceived its  name— Mzn/iw* — from  classic  pages. 
It  is  situated  in  a  beautiful  valley.  The  general 
appearance,  together  with  that  of  the  surround- 
ing country,  is  exceeding!/  picturesque  and 
charming.  It  contains  a  number  of  neatly  built 
brick  houses.  Its  distance  from  Sullivan  is  nine 
miles.  At  about  three  miles  from  Manlius, 
we  came  to  the  small  village  of  Derne  ;  Jmnesville 
next  appears,  and  Onondaga  four  miles  beyond. 
In  a  north-east  direction,  to  the  right  hand  of  the 
road,  a  short  time  previous  to  our  arrival  at  this 
place,  we  had  a  distant  view  of  the  Oneida  lake. 
It  was  not  sufficiently  near,  to  enable  us  to  disco- 
'  ver  any  beauty  in  the  scenery,  appearing  but  in 
occasional  glances  very  much  broken  by  woods. 


riiH 


'H 


/  ni 


1 


-L.  «^ 


I. 


( 


Ui 


I    I 


Onondaga  is  a  large  and  flourishing  town,  and 
has  two  villages,  Onondaga  Hollow  and  West-Hill. 
The  former  is  two  miles  east  of  the  latter,  and 
is  rather  an  agreeably  situated  place  than  other- 
wise J  being  on  a  level   piece  of  ground,   with 
open  spaces  and  wide  cross-roads.     This  was  the 
appointed  place  for  dinner  and  changing  horses. 
We  were  doomed  here  to  part  with  our  Scotch 
companion,   who  had  come  to  the   end  of  his 
route;  and  in  so  doing  he  was  as  sorry,  apparently^ 
as  we  were  ourselves,  for  we  had  become  exceed- 
ingly pleased  with  him.     He  was  a  well  educated 
man,  had  seen  good  company,  and  what  was  soon 
discoverable,  bore  every  exterior  mark  of  a  gen- 
tleman. 

Three  miles  south  of  this  village  live  the  Onon- 
daga Indians.  During  the  remaining  part  of 
our  ride,  this  afternoon,  an  agreeable  variety  of 
hill  and  dale  was  presented.  The  whole  distance 
from  the  dining  place  was  about  twenty-four 
miles.  The  village  of  Marcellus  intervenes  on 
proceeding  nine  miles  from  West  Hill.  The 
large  and  valuable  county  of  Onondaga  continues 
to  improve  considerably  in  the  agricultural  line, 
and  has  some  manufacturing  establishments.  It 
contains  also,  fix  miles  further  on,  the  pleasant 
and  flourishing  village  of  Skeneateles.    An  un- 


11 


;     \      ' 


'>.i 


'■.l 


L  j^.  ,..t  .  -^   .*-«?»  .  •>   "^  ■''Jjl  r* 


■*t, 


as 


usual  degree  of  interest  was  excited  at  the  lake 
of  the  same  name.  As  you  approach  this  beau- 
tiful sheet  of  water  extending  over  fifteen  miles, 
of  which  only  eight  are  visible,  the  shores  present 
a  number  of  little  villas  situated  on  their  banks. 
The  road  proceeds,  by  an  easy  declivity,  for  a 
quarter  of  a  mile,  immediately  before  arriving  at 
the  lake,  which  it  crosses  at  the  outlet.  There  is 
a  peculiar  charm  spread  over  this  spot,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  romantic  appearance  of  the  sur- 
rounding country,  and  the  extent,  which  the  mind 
so  easily  embraces,  of  the  water  scenery.  As 
cultivation  increases  in  the  vicinity,  it  will  pro- 
bably, at  least,  rival  most  situations  in  America. 

We  advanced  at  a  tolerably  slow  rate  towards 
Auburn  ;  nothing  of  importance  occurring  in  the 
route,  or  variety  in  our  company.     Our  two  Ohio 
ladies,  were  engaged,  as  we  left  them,  in  the  fore 
part  of  the  day  ;  the  one  with  her  novel,  and  the 
other   pensively   immersed   in   cogitation.    The 
N.  Y.  gentleman^  had  taken  a  post  on  the  box ; 
where  he  was  agreeably   entertaining  the  driver 
with  an  account  of  the  feats  of  horsemanship  and 
jocky-club  amusements;  as  wellas  occasionally  re- 
lieving him,  in  the  true  style  of  a  Knight  of  the 
xvhip^  by  showing  his  own   dexterity  in  driving 
four  horses. 


]\ 


r 


w. 


I  J 


Mi.!.i^a 


i'5»»^:».*'---'*v"' 


-;i^««?-'.;:t-  ./-ir: 


"'^fSfc. 


^^..J^. 


Vp,^''m,mmm'mmmiifKit0miitm 


mfvu^irr^-.A,  • 


li 


r\ 


36 

The  village  of  Auburn  contains  about  fifteen 
-hundred  inhabitants.  Its  location  is  extremely 
.eligible,  for  manufactories  and  mills  ;  and  to  this 
circumstance,  much  of  the  importance  of  its 
trade  is  derived.  It  is  distant  from  Albany  one 
'hundred  and  seventy  miles,  at  the  outlet  of  the 
Owasco  lake.  Among  other  public  buildings, 
there  are  a  court  house  and  gaol. 

A  Prison  for  convicts  has  recently  been  erect- 
ed at  the  expense  of  the  state.  After  supper  we 
took  a  wulk  to  view  this  stupendous  edifice  by 
moon-light,  and  were  very  n  ^ch  gratified  with 
the  appearance.  It  was  surrounded  by  a  high 
wall  of  about  fifteen  feet,  and  at  each  of  the  front 
comers  stands  a  sentr}-  box  for  the  protection  of 
the  night-watch.  The  parapet  on  the  roof  creates 
an  idea  of  a  fortress,  more  than  what  might  be 
considered  as  a  decoration,  for  the  habitation 
of  convicts.  On  the  top  of  the  building 
there  stands,  in  complete  uniform,  a  figure  of 
what  caused  much  deliberation  among  our  party 
to  determine,whetheritwasarealoronly  the  repre- 
sentation of  a  iSon  of  Mars.  He  at  any  rate  is  placed 
in  so  conspicuous  a  situation,  as  fully  to  answer 
the  purpose  of  intimidation.  The  effect  on  some 
men  is  likely  to  be  similar  to  that  produced  on 
birds  by  the  scare-crow  in  a  barley  field. 


.'■.<■ ' 


"Mt?!-w__       ■     ¥S£*- 


■  ,■  i^t .■•;-,.  , 


37 


We  were  not  able  to  learn  much  of  the  Theo- 
logical Seminary,  which  was  lately  established 
here  under  the  patronage  of  the  Presbyterian 
church,  as  it  has  scarcely  yet  commenced  opera- 
tions. It  is  intended  to  prepare  young  men  for 
the  ministry.  I  understood  the  terms  were  rea- 
sonable with  respect  to  tuition  and  board.  The 
students  will  probably  be  transferred  to  Ando- 
ver  or  Princeton,  after  some  advancement  in  their 
studies ;  and  as  it  is  the  only  one  in  the  state  of 
the  kind,  it  ought  to  act  as  a  stimulus  to  other 
denominations. 


'^■1.'^ 


•^■^ 


'.^-/■-.I'i;   ■■?-^  .f.v-. 


"Itf^ 


ii)«.M*.'««r«'" 


t      .i 


> 


\    i 


(!/ 


«  r 


A 


i) 


\     I  il 


ijitt^imttitf^" 


CHAPTER  V. 

Passengers  called — Flourishing  appearance  of  the  Country- 
Travelling  Customs — Growth  of  Towns — Familiar  Intro- 
duction— Similarity  of  names  in  places — Theological  Se- 
minary, at  Geneva — Canandaigua — Burning  Spring. 


\l 


iM 


3d.  At  the  usual  hour  of  starting  we  were 
abruptly  awakened  again  with  that  most  unweU 
come  of  all  cries,  to  the  half-rested  traveller. 
The  Stage  is  ready  ! — Passengers  halloo  I — 
"  What  is  to  be  done,"  said  one  of  my  compa- 
nions, betwixt  sleeping  and  waking, — "  what 
then  ?— what's  the  matter  ?" — "  Get  up,"  said  a 
good-humoured,  half-witted,  half-laughing  kind 
of  fellow  ; — "  come  gentlemen  ; — pull  foot ; — 
rouse  up  gentlemen  ; — the  horses  are  all  hitched !" 
"  What  do  you  mean  ?" — "  To  drive  right  off 
then  ?"  said'  I.  "  To  be  sure  !"  At  which  the  fel- 
low seemed  to  enjoy  the  joke  in  good  earnest, — 
"  O  yes,  O  yes  !" — continued  he,  with  a  horse 
laugh — "  The  horses  is  all  'itched  ;  ha !  ha  !  ha  !" 
"  But  you'll  give  us  time,— wont  you,  to  dress  ?" 
"  O  yes,  O  yes  !" — and  he  bolted  out  of  the  room 


m 


■■'  .■ 


^i^'y  '''■'jt5'Uuv  .'* 5' ' 


igUittmUu 


»f»SJ«*'>'M»-'-' 


'j; 


11  \ 


m 


\ 


40 

just  quick  enough  to  save  hh  distance  from  a 
blow  of  the  first  article  that  might  have  been  le- 
velled at  his  head.  We  were  thus  left  in  a  maze 
of  wonder  ;  not  knowing  whether  most  to  admire 
the  fellow's  wit,  dexterity,  or  impertinence ;  and 
by  this  time  being  thoroughly  convinced  that  we 
were  awake,  began  to  bundle  on  the  vest  and  pan- 
taloons, with  the  utmost  precipitation.  There  will 
be  nothing  done,  till  we  come,  said  I ;  so  if  they 
will,  let  them  drive  off  without  us.  To  make 
sure  of  the  matter,  however,  we  were  ready  (to 
make  use  of  a  vulgar  phrase)  in  a  twinkling, 
came  down  stairs,  and  stept  into  the  stage. 

After  leaving  Auburn  the  country  displays  a 
more  pleasing  aspect,  and  better  state  of  cultiva- 
tion.  Villages  occasionally  appear  along  the 
shores,  but  generally  at  the  outlet  of  each  lake, 
which  is  the  depot  for  produce,  and  thus  the  most 
important  situation  is  there  established.  It  is 
often  a  difficult  matter  to  realize,  that  one  is  tra- 
velling at  so  great  a  distance  from  a  populous  city, 
by  reason  of  the  improved,  cheerful,  and  beau- 
teous arrangements  which  are  presented.  The 
houses  are  constructed  *m  so  commodious  and  cor- 
rect a  style,  as  frequently  to  convey  an  idea  of 
elegance  and  taste,  rvjthei  than  of  the  inconv&> 
niences  naturally  attached  to  the  ill  formed  log- 


-'■'■■^&v--.?-''i'f' 


;<y*w^,p^r-f*»^^^.i; 


'Mance  from  a 

have  been  le- 

left  in  a  maze 
lost  to  admire 
Ttinence;  and 
nnced  that  we 

vest  and  pan- 
n.  There  will 

I;  so  if  they 
s.  To  make 
ere  ready  (to 

a  twinkling, 

stage. 

Y  displays  a 
e  of  cultiva- 
•   along    the 
>f  each  lake, 
hus  the  most 
shed.     It  is 
t  one  is  tra- 
)puIous  city, 
I,  and  beau- 
nted.     The 
>us  and  cor- 

an  idea  of 
le  inconve^ 
ormed  log- 


41 

house  of  huge  timber,  so  usually  the  first  mode  of 
building  which  is  adopted  in  new  countries. 

To  the  village  of  E.  Cayuga  is  eight  miles. 
Here  we  stopped  to  breakfast,  at  an  early  hour, 
according  to  the  usual  custom  of  American  stage 
travelling,  which  probably  arises  from  the  cor- 
responding time  of  starting,  and  by  this  means 
the  whole  arrangement  for  the  day  is  put  ahead. 
The  breakfast  tables  generally  are  well  provided 
with  all  things  necessary.  Every  meal  is  charged 
at  about  the  same  price,  and  a  breakfast  or  supper 
is  scarcely  distinguishable,  from  dinner,  except 
for  the  tea  and  coffee.  The  prices  are  usually 
three  shillings*  per  meal.  The  rate  of  lodging  is, 
from  one  to  two  shillings,  for  each  bed.  In  some 
parts  of  the  back  countries^  I  have  been  informed 
it  is  unusual  to  cook  dinner,  for  travellers,  unless 
specially  called  for  ;  the  mode  generally  adopted 
is  to  take  breakfast  and  supper  only,  and  to  lie 
by,  for  an  hour  or  two,  to  rest,  in  the  middle  of 
the  day.  This  is  more  properly  the  custom 
among  travellers  on  horseback,  or  on  foot.  The 
horse  is  allowed  to  eat  only  a  small  quantity,  at 
this  time,  reserving  the  more  important  feed  till 
night :  in  this  manner  he  will  continue  the  jour- 

*  New.York  money,  equal  to  thirty  geven  and  a  half  centf- 

D  2 


I 


i 


i 


lIlN 


)i 


0inti*i*»* 


■     I 


f»-      ■ 


42 

ney,  at  the  best  rate,  and  hold  out  for  the  longest 
time.  Such  things  as  concern  travelling  gene- 
rally will  only  barely  be  alluded  to  ;  not  particu- 
larly falling  under  notice  unless  from  casual  ob- 
servations or  intervening  circumstances. 

After  breakfast  we  crossed  the  bridge  over  the 
Cayuga  lake ;  which,  calculating  from  the  time 
taken  up,  I  should  judge  to  be  a  mile  in  length. 
Its  construction  is  remarkable,  being  built  on 
piles,  and  level.  Three  miles  beyond  this  is  the 
small  village  of  Seneca  Fallsy  through  which  we 
passed  ;  and  next  came  to  the  flourishing  village 
of  Waterloo^  born  and  christened  since  the  battle. 
It  is  not  an  easy  matter  to  discover  resemblances 
between  places  themselves  which  are  similarly 
named,  or  the  events  producing  their  names.  In 
this  respect  there  is  often  a  considerable  disap- 
pointment, when  the  original  places  are  known, 
and  the  mind  consequently  accustomed  to  form  a 
set  of  ideas,  in  a  directly  opposite  ratio  to  the  one 
immediately  presenting  itself  before  us.  Such  was 
the  case,  in  the  present  instance.  An  open,  level, 
and  uninteresting  spot  j  but  rather  higher  than 
the  surrounding  country,  which  incloses  it,  by  a 
thick  wood.  Through  the  town  runs  a  consi- 
derable stream  of  water,  on  which  are  erected  se- 
veral mills.    The  account  of  the  magical  increase 


>ti^m-^^]i^^MdiX^t^^^kafiS^Si^^ 


-jm^f 


43 


ot  this  place,  given  a  few  years  ago,  in  the  public 
paper,  had  excited  the  curiosity  and  interest  of 
our  party.  It  is  wonderful  indeed  to  behold  the 
rapid  progress  of  this  village,  which  has  usurped 
the  place  of  the  desert  forest.  The  hunter  of 
these  wilds  might  wonder,  on  his  return,  at  seeing 
the  change,  where  but  a  few  seasons  past  his  yearly 
course  was  uninterrupted.  The  expectations  are 
not  realized,  with  respect  to  the  healthiness  of 
the  place;  which  we  learnt  was  much  subject 
to  fever  and  ague.  And  this  misfortune  fre- 
quently takes  place  in  new  settlements  to  a  very 
alarming  degree.        '> 

I  cannot  forbear  mentioning  here  another  pas- 
senger, added  to  the  list  of  females,  whose  reso- 
lute silence  had  almost  rendered  them  unnoticed. 
She  began,  by  a  New-England  method,  to  disco- 
ver the  place  of  abode  of  our  ladies^  by  saying  they 
were  not  from  such^  or — from  such  a  place.  This 
important  discovery  being  once  settled,  there  was 
no  end  to  further  inquiries,  by  way  of  explana- 
tory contradiction.  "  You  do  not  know,"  mean- 
ing "  do  you  know  ?"  Squire  Timberlock^  Judge 
Clutterbuck^  Timothy  Faivnhunter^  or  Farmer 
Rake^  with  many  other  distinguished  gentry  and 
commoners  in  the  vicinity  of  Painesville.  This 
conversation,  as  might  reasonably  be  expected, 


<*! 


■^"'3^-  ■-: 


~  ^^77  ■.- i)*iv; 


t. 


I     ) 


|/\ 


I'k  5 


r 


L^i 


44 


was  exceedingly  interesting  to  the  parties  ac- 
quainted)  and  subsided  as  soon  as  the  prelimi- 
naries of  natural  curiosity  were  over.  In  fact, 
when  this  was  done,  all  communications  again 
ceased  ;  by  either  a  voluntary,  or  an  involuntary 
calm.  Those  persons,  generally  speaking,  who 
talk  most,  on  subjects  of  this  nature,  are  the  least 
capable  of  advancing  much  upon  any  other ;  and 
universally  fail  in  the  attempt,  both  of  entertain- 
ing themselves,  as  well  as  their  neighbours. 

On  advancing  a  little  further  we  perceived  the 
Seneca  Lake,  at  the  outlet  of  which  is  situated  the 
Village  of  Geneva.  It  is  no  doubt  very  natural 
for  settlers,  to  give  names  to  places  taken  from 
the  old  countries,  where  their  forefathers  have 
lived,  as  a  respectful  token  of  their  remembrance  : 
but  here  again  it  may  be  observed,  that  in  order 
the  more  effectually  to  preserve  this  memento, 
there  should  be  corresponding  incidents,  circum- 
stances, or  situation  ;  else  the  fondest  expecta- 
tions are  lost ; — the  fancied  pleasure  ceases. 
Such  is  the  doleful  picture  of  this  place,  such  the 
sickening  view  here  seen  !  To  say  that  there  is  a 
resemblance,  to  the  town  only,  bearing  the  same 
name,  and  situated  on  the  borders  of  Savoy,  is  a 
comparison  that  may  be  allowed,  especially  with 
respect  to  filth,  incongruity  or  gloominess :  but 


^  w 


2MB3?^^°' 


IP^.-^^, 


m 


he  parties  ac- 
IS  the  prelimi- 
ver.  In  fact, 
ications  again 
n  involuntary 
peaking,  who 
!,  are  the  least 
tiy  other ;  and 

of  entertain- 
fh  hours. 
)erceived  the 
s  situated  the 

very  natural 
taken  from 
fathers  have 
imembrance : 
hat  in  order 
is  memento, 
ints,  circum- 
est  expecta- 
iure    ceases, 
ice,  such  the 
lat  there  is  a 
g  the  same 

Savoy,  is  a 
:cially  with 
miness:  but 


43 

to  call  to  mind  the  lively  beauties  of  the  sur- 
rounding scenery,  which  one  glance  at  Geneva's 
lake  would  point  to  the  beholder's  fancy ;  or 
flashing  fpom  the  snow-topped  Alpine  region, 
seen  in  perspective  over  its  blue-waved  sheet; 
would  require  a  thousand  exertions,  which  the 
most  fertile  imagination  or  brilliancy  of  genius, 
must  fail  in  attempting  to  portray.  So  on  the  one 
hand  is  the  comparative  picture  brightened  ;  and 
on  the  other  the  disappointment  augmented.  A 
few  miserable,  misplaced  habitations,  are  here 
the  only  relief  from  the  woody  scene,  on  the  one 
side,  and  an  expanse  of  water  on  the  other.  The 
houses  form  a  comer,  i.  e.  the  main-street  through 
which  the  stage  passed  to  the  inn.  This  situation 
Is  the  pleasantest,  being  nearer  to  the  lake,  and  on 
its  highest  bank. 

It  does  not  behoove  me  to  pass  by  Geneva  with- 
out saying  something  about  the  Theological  Se^- 
minary  recently  established  here,  as  a  branch  of 
the  general  one.  It  is  intended  that  students  for 
holy  orders,  who  have  neither  the  inclination  nor 
the  means  of  residing  in  the  city  of  New-York, 
shall  remain  here  preparatory  to  their  entering 
the  general  Seminary.  Such  as  are  disposed, 
however,  will  have  the  privilege  of  being  fitted 
for  orders  at  this    place;  in  a  way  that  may 


\i 


*    I! 


M 


:  ^' 


..^VfHt'^ff*'"' 


< 


t    's 


.' ' 


46 

enable  them  to  enter  upon  the  duties  of  a  parish 
minister.  It  is  impossible  to  form  any  estimate 
of  either  the  qualifications  for  entry,  or  the  re- 
quisites for  admission,  to  orders.  Am  far  how- 
ever as  is  known,  a  competent  knowledge  of  the 
classics  is  to  be  taught  j  sufficient  very  likely  to 
qualify  them  for  entrance  at  college  ;  for  such 
as  could  not  procure  admission  to  college,  it 
would  seem  of  course  could  not  be  admitted 
here :  at  any  rate,  this  appears  as  if  it  might  be 
the  intended  plan.  The  object  is  good,  but  how 
far  likely  to  produce  a  benefit  ultimately,  time 
will  determine.  In  the  name  of  the  great  Head 
of  the  Church  her  candidates  nust  ever  he  suc- 
cessful. 

With  respect  to  the  building  it  may  be  said, 
with  propriety,  to  be  well  calculated  to  answer 
the  worthy  object  intended.  There  is  a  degree 
of  neatness  and  regularity  in  the  construction, 
while  at  the  same  time  both  commodious  and 
sufficiently  large.  It  is  an  admirable  model  of 
unadorned  simplicity ;  and  being  delightfully  si- 
tuated on  the  bank  of  the  lake,  commands  an  ex- 
tensive view.  It  is  built  of  stone,  and  is  three  sto- 
ries high  besides  the  basement.  The  windows, 
though  not  capacious,  and  containing  small  lights, 
bespeak  a  symmetry  and  order  suitable  for  the 


J  \t  ' 


-■'W 


47 


apartments  of  study.  In  fact  the  whole  appear*- 
ance  is  picturesque,  and  at  the  same  time  substan- 
tial. Sufficient  accommodations  are  here  provided 
for  the  students,  and  advantages  of  an  education 
for  the  ministry,  with  respect  to  retirement,  supe- 
rior to  those  practicable  in  a  city,,  and  according 
to  circumstances,  not  less  complete. 

The  country,  through  which  we  passed  after 
leaving  Geneva,  abounds  with  those  plains  and 
native  forests,  so  common  in  the  new  states  to 
the  westward  ,r  with  this  exception,  however,  that 
the  soil  is  v^t  good.  Very  few  houses  are  to 
be  seen  for  th  r  ^e  of  sixteen  miles,  which  is  the 
distance  to  the  next  lake ;  but  still,  now  and  then, 
a  little  orchard  of  peach  or  appletrees,  and  a  stub- 
ble* field  appeared  to  indicate  that  the  settler  was 
not  destitute  of  what  may  be  considered  as  the 
main  staff'  of  life.  On  passing  Seneca  and  Gor- 
ham,  we  approached  the  lake  o£  Canandaigua, 
near  which  there  is  evidently  greater  attention 
paid  to  horticulture,  and  kitchen-gardens  are  not 
unfrequently  in  a  tolerable  state  of  cultivation. 

Canandaigua  is  situated  near  the  outlet  of  the 
lake,  from  which  its  name  is  derived.  This  vil- 
lage concedes  the  palm  to  none  through  which 
our  route  has  passed,  either  in  situation  or  beauty. 
The  variety  of  prospects,  as  also  the  taste  and 


\' 


«taM>.&/  -.  .WUlJI 


.■••,r>2.iv-'.'''>ti'isJ. 


<v.'««ww*<»"-*-'.  ;::'Yi"«»iiMwr«ipi.^iy.«^t«iM„ 


nut  III 


\ 


V 


i<»> 


Eh 


48 

structure  of  the  buildings,  are  very  superior,  and 
its  vicinity  contains  a  number  of  villas.  The 
natural  scenery  renders  it  an  eligible  situation  to 
the  citizen,  retiring  from  the  walks  of  an  active 
life,  or  the  independent  farmer.  It  seems  proba- 
ble from  appearances  that  such  spots  will  be 
sought  after,  and  perhaps  already  have  been  se- 
lected by  persons  of  this  description.  Our  party 
came  to  a  conclusion  to  remain  here  during  Sun- 
day ;  in  so  doing  there  were  no  other  inconve- 
niences, than  parting  with  the  company  (before 
mentioned)  and  a  small  delay. 

Matters  being  thus  arranged,  we  dined  and 
made  ourselves  contented  after  the  departure  of 
the  stage.  The  room  to  which  we  were  shown 
was  in  the  front  part  of  the  principal  inn,  situated 
on  the  large  square.  It  is  placed  on  the  most 
eligible  site  which  the  town  affords  ;  the  views 
are  finer,  more  open,  and  elevated  than  at  any 
other  spot.  In  front  of  this  square,  containing 
the  court-house,  runs  the  principal  street,  which 
ascends  a  gradual  hill ;  at  the  top  of  which,  a 
most  perfect  view  of  the  lake,  whose  picturesque 
and  broad  expanse  forms  a  contrast  with  the  wild 
surrounding  country,  is  presented.  The  prospect 
down  this  vista  is  charming,  being  nearly  two 
miles  in  length.    The  lower  part  of  the  street  is 


nii 


49 


occupied  by  stores  and  ware-houses,  but  the  up- 
per contains  villas  or  cottages,  ornamented  with 
colonnades  and  porches,  each  within  its  own  plea- 
sure ground  or  garden.  The  principal  part  of  the 
town  is  built  at  about  one  mile  from  the  lake.  It 
is  distant  from  Albany  two  hundred  and  eight 
miles — from  Utica  a  hundred  and  fourteen — from 
Buffalo  eighty-eight — and  from  Niagara  Falls  a 
hundred  and  eight. 

There  are  in  the  vicinity  of  this  place  a  num- 
ber of  "  sulphur  springs.'"*  For  the  satisfaction 
of  those  who  may  be  desirous  of  information  con- 
cerning these,  as  also  what  is  called  "  the  burning 
spring,"  nine  miles  south-west  of  Canandaigua,  I 
take  this  opportunity  of  subjoining  an  account 
thereof  in  the  words  of  an  intelligent  traveller. 
"  We  entered  a  small  but  thick  wood  of  pine  and 
maple,  enclosed  within  a  narrow  ravine,  the  steep 
sides  of  which,  composed  of  dark  clay-slate,  rise 
to  the  height  of  about  forty  feet.  Down  this  glen, 
whose  width,  at  its  entrance,  may  be  about  sixty 
yards,  trickles  a  scanty  streamlet,  wandering  from 
side  to  side,  as  scattered  rocks,  or  fallen  trees, 
afford  or  deny  it  passage.  We  had  advanced 
on  its  course  about  fifty  yards,  when  close  under 
the  rocks  of  the  right  bank,  we  perceived  a  bright 
red  flame,  burning  briskly  on  its  waters.     Pieces 

F. 


Ifc 


1  m-' 


i!| 


a' 


H 


*:_•,.   ■    ,.,  V-   -"     »A«.  *»•-»"-"--'•-"»"•'•, 


4 


fi:'*^«**«SlWr'*^?^;»-'',  -■-*,'W 


50 


of  lighted  wood  being  applied  to  diflerent  adja- 
cent spots,  a  space  of  several  j'ards  was  imme- 
diately in  a  blaze.  Being  informed  by  our  guide, 
that  a  repetition  of  this  phenomenon  might  be 
seen  higher  up  the  glen,  we  scrambled  on,  for 
about  a  hundred  yards,  and,  directed  in  some 
degree  by  a  strong  smell  of  sulphur,  applied  our 
match  to  several  places,  with  the  same  effect. 
The  rocky  banks  here  approach  so  closely,  as 
to  leave  little  more  than  a  course  to  the  stream, 
whose  stony  channel  formed  our  path  :  sulphur 
in  several  places  oozed  from  them  abundantly. 
We  advanced  about  seventy  yards  further,  when 
we  found  the  glen  terminate  in  a  perpendicular 
rock,  about  thirty  feet  high,  overgrown  with 
moss,  and  encumbered  with  fallen  pine  trees, 
through  which  the  drops,  at  this  dry  period  of 
the  season,  scarcely  trickled.  These  fires,  we 
were  told,  continue  burning  unceasingly,  unless 
extinguished  by  accident.  The  phenomenon  was 
discovered  by  the  casual  rolling  of  some  lighted 
embers  from  the  top  of  the  bank,  while  it  was 
clearing  for  cultivation.  In  the  intensity  and 
duration  of  the  flame,  it  probably  exceeds  any 
thiug  of  the  kind  yet  discovered.  I  could  how- 
ever find  no  traces  of  a  spring  on  its  whole 
course :  the  water  on  which  the  first  fire   was 


51 

burning,  had  indeed  a  stagnant  appearance,  and 
probably  was  so,  from  tlie  failure  of  the  current ; 
but  it  had  no  peculiar  taste  or  smell,  was  of  the 
ordinary  temperature,  and  but  a  few  inches  deep  ; 
a  few  bubbles  indicated  the  passage  of  the  in- 
flammable air  through  it :  on  applying  a  match  to 
the  adjacent  parts  of  the  dry  rock,  a  momentary 
Ilame  played  along  it  also.  These  circumstances 
*  induced  us  to  consider  the  bed  of  the  streamlet 
as  accidently  affording  an  outlet  to  the  inflammable 
air  from  below,  and  the  water  as  in  some  degree 
performing  the  part  of  a  candle-wick,  by  prevent- 
ing its  immediate  dispersion  into  the  atmo- 
sphere— I  should  observe  that  there  are  consi- 
derable sulphur  springs  nine  miles  north-west  of 
Canandaigua;  and  it  may  perhaps  be  worth  notic- 
ing, that  a  line  drawn  through  both,  would  strike,  in 
a  south  south-west  direction,  the  warm  spring  near 
Huntingdon,  in  Pennsylvania;  the  Berkely  medi- 
cinal waters  on  the  Potomac ;  and  thence,  follow- 
ing the  course  of  the  mountains  south-west,  the 
hot  springs  of  Bath,  and  sulphur  springs  in  the 
Alleghany.' 


;   r 


I  (  I 


'■■\ 


''i'.^-'. 


5J 


I^> 


ii 


'  !!;  I 


-  ii\'.>  ■ 


>'■><' 


!.Ul-' 


Si>*.'   ',  W'^i^ 


'-^v. 


^» 


wJ/, 


liH'" 


^^'^^ 


^J.^J 


■  ■-  I.I 


^A^'  i??.; 


^'i 


fSn 


m*:i 


■f  *:' 


('      •,'*» 


■■\:'e   U    i  . 


'..' 


i 

,T.t«:,^ 

•<■ 

...vf;*^ 

I  .M  -..^ 

"vVir^lr 

;  *,.'■:. 

'^z  *^i 

',  '.-'W-* 

:5i< 


%^^- 


■I. 


»  »•■■  i^: 


v^«-'  .*;;. 


;r-^#1i 


CIIAPTKH  VI. 

F,pi»copal  Clmrcli— Divine  Womliip-— I.fty-llcader— Preach- 
injf!  Iloctriiial  Inference*— Vi»it  from  Mr.  II. — iJcparturc 
from  <;antin<laigna — Travcllinff  Group— -Progrc**  of  tho 
Canal— Traveller's  Fare — Improvcmentnin  Htag:e»— {jenO' 
r»l  llcmarkA-— liiiffalo — Knlruncc  into  Upper  Canada.  C' 
'         "  -  ■"        ? 

'Sunday ^  Aut(unt  4th.  At  the  hour  o£  half  past 
ten  A.  M.  wc  repaired  to  the  Kpi»copai  ehurch. 
The  building  is  of  the  (Gothic  order,  and  displays 
u  neatness  on  the  outside  not  often  excelled. 
There  is  a  cupola  in  front  containing  a  belfry. 
The  whole  is  constructed  of  wood,  and  exhibits  a 
^ingularly  grotesque  appearance  ;  as  the  elegance 
of  this  order  of  buildings  depends  on  the  idea  of 
age,  which  the  mind  connects  with  them.  It  is 
devoid  of  taste  with  regard  to  the  interior  also, 
itaving  a  metallic  plate,  to  designate  the  pews ; 
while  every  other  part  of  the  church  is  exceeding- 
ly plain  and  without  ornament. 

The  day  had  been  rainy,  and  other  appearances 
<:ombined  to  render  the  worship  irregular  and  ill 

F     *> 


%S^|I 


r    /  " 


¥ 


MM 


(  '    -> 


•//••'-♦>-,  wi 


A  4. 


h  i 


utlciuloil.  riu'  Uiiuil  is  often  tapricioiitj  and  wiuv 
lining,  rvrn  in  the  lltmsc  of  liod  ;  Imt  I  rcnlly 
think  ihnl  thcro  uir  occiiHionully  circiu«atjuut'.s, 
wltich  Hci've  to  l)oi^-hton  thin  disposition,  and  that 
ihc  service  of  our  Chnrch,  if  not  proporly  ct)n- 
ductnl,  lias  not  unfirijiiontly  such  dfcct.  Such 
conceptions  arc  accountcil  for,  uhrn  \\c  consider 
that  the  8]H'aker  nujst  feel  before  he  can  com- 
municate :  anil  iti  the  present  instance  the  circum- 
htanecs  alluded  to  were  unhappily  ilUistiaied,  hy 
the  n»ost  cogent  reasons.  It  happened  unfortu- 
nately that  INlr.  H,,  the  rector,  was  unwell,  lie 
had  not  i')lfieiated  for  sonve  niiuuhs.  The  service 
was  performed  hy  a  lay-reader,  as  I  supposed,  who 
was  introihiced  hy  INlr.  H.  lie  entered  the  read- 
ing desk  in  a  manner  very  unusual,  to  one,  at  least, 
who  had  heen  accustoiued  tt>  see  the  entry  of  mi* 
nisters  (duu  with  a  solemn  appeal  to  Almighty 
r.od,  for  a  blessing  upon  their  labours)  humbly 
supplicate,  as  a  previous  step  to  commencing  di- 
vine worship.  His  Hgurc  was  that  of  a  country 
squire,  or  any  thing  else  but  a  clergyman.  What 
with  alterations  and  ill  devised  omissions,  he  con- 
trived to  get  through,  and  mangle  the  service  in  a 
most  shocking  manner.  The  important  airs  which 
he  assumed  on  proceeding  to  read  a  good  sermon 
of  Bishop  Wilson,  were  not  a  little  heightened,  by 


i|^  <»■■>/* 


ioMs  ami  uaiT- 
;   l)Ut  I  really 
iri'uiustaiut'N, 
itioii,  and  that 
pn)|)rrly   iini- 
idVit.     Such 
n  wc  ( onHidci 
he   can  coin- 
cc  the  circiun- 
illustrated,  hy 
cued  unfoiiu- 
unwell.     IK- 
The  service 
tipposed,  who 
red  the  read- 
one,  at  least, 
entry  of  mi* 
to  Alniighty 
urs)  humhly 
luenchiji;  di- 
1  a  cc)untr\ 
man.     What 
ions,  he  con- 
service  in  a 
U  airs  which 
:;()od  sermon 
ij^htened,  hv 


,1S 

\\\»  awkward  aiicmpin  to  Hupply  the  want  of  clo- 
«|ucnce.  Add  to  thin  the  close  cut  hair  of  a 
hif\h'turned  lorehead,  hift  total  inaptitude  lor 
the  situation,  and  dip;nilied,  lolly  demeanour ; 
and  there  appeared  at  once  the  characteristic 
stamp  ol'  a  pedagogue.  We  learnt  al'terwads  that 
he  was  a  «ch(»olmaster  ;  atul  hy  profession  also,  a 
lawyer.  May  Heaven  hestow  meekness  on  thoHC 
who  oiliciate,  lor  the  Church  needs  no  nHsistance 
without  it,  in  the  pale  of  her  sanctuary.  It  if* 
not  from  want  of  charity  that  these  remarlcH 
have  heen  dictated  ;  though  it  tends  to  .show,  that 
dtere  existed  an  improper  spirit  i'or  devotion.  A 
Huerv  arises,  whether  a  similar  ellect  will  not 
l';enerallv  he  produced  ?  It  is  prohahly  no  matter 
of  surprise,  that  a  service  tendered  dull  i)y  such 
performances,  must  efl'ectually  create  lukewarm- 
ness,  and  cause  finally  the  ruined  stale  of  many 
country  parishes. 

It  is  hy  no  means  to  he  wondered  at,  that  I 
declined  going  to  tlic  same  church  in  the  afternoon. 
My  reverend  companion  hail  not  heen  introduced 
to  thv  clerg) man,  and  thus  it  happened,  was  not 
asked  to  preach.  No  inducement  would  have 
caused  me  to  sit  again  under  such  preaching,  if 
so  it  can  be  called,  as  I  heard  this  morning,  and  in 
the  presence  of  two  ordained  ministers ;  so  I  left 


J 


)l 


\S  ') 


56 

my  companions  on  the  way  thither,  and  entered 
the  Pre8l)ytcrian  church  mjsclf.  The  preacher, 
a  Welshman,  delivered  a  deliberate  doctrinal 
sermon  extempore,  against  the  reprobate  race. 
The  terrors  of  the  judgment  day  were  awfully 
depicted !  He  portrayed  the  sinner's  hopeless 
condition,  on  whom  the  wrath  of  the  Lamb  should 
fall ;  and  declared  himself  the  messenger.  His 
tones  were  deep, — his  manner  pointed,  and  his 
language  unpersuasive.  How  comfortless  the 
state  of  a  sinner  awakened  to  a  sense  of  God's 
justice  in  his  own  punishment! — how  lost  for 
ever !  But  stop  !  too  much  is  proved  ;— he  will 
not  finally  perish  ! — his  very  dread  of  this  could 
no  lost  sinner  feel.  It  is  the  source  from  whence 
his  comfort  and  the  knowledge  of  his  pardon 
are  to  be  derived.  Already  have  the  dawnings 
of  grace  appeared, — the  Saviour's  arms  are  open. 
I  returned  to  the  inn,  and  joined  my  compa- 
nions J  and  not  having  any  acquaintances  in  the 
place,  we  determined  to  remain  in  our  chamber. 
The  conversation  turned  upon  devotional  exer- 
cises, and  produced,  I  trust,  considerable  advan- 
tage. My  mind  had  been  prepared  by  reflections 
during  the  day  on  what  had  occurred,  and  by 
reading  a  highly  esteemed  production  of  an  Eng- 
lish woman  on  Practical  Pietv. 


'sffi," 


/?i«»'i'.. .,'.:<. ,« 


57 


Sth.  The  politeness  of  Mr.  B.,  the  rector,  and 
perhaps  some  degree  of  curiosity,  (he  having  seen 
three  strangers  at  the  church  yesterday,  and  sup- 
posing them  to  belong  to  the  cloth),  induced  him 
this  morning  to  pay  us  a  visit.  He  had  no  hesi- 
tation in  setting  down  two  of  the  party  as  clergy- 
men, and  the  other  a  student  in  divinity.  He 
was  much  surprised,  that  we  had  been  so  long  in 
town,  without  his  knowledge.— Our  discussions 
were  of  a  general  nature  ;  excepting  the  account 
of  his  own  ill  healtii,  and  tlie  unavoidable  decline 
of  the  church  from  debts,  and  other  opposing  cir- 
cumstances. He  afterwards  proposed  taking  a 
walk,  in  the  course  of  which  we  saw  the  Metho- 
dist and  the  Congregational  churches,  both  sub- 
stantial frame  buildings ;  we  also  called  to  see 
several  gentlemen  of  his  congregation,  and  re- 
turning to  the  inn  soon  after,  took  an  affectionate 
leave  of  our  friend  Mr.  B. 

From  Canandaigua  a  stage  is  frequently  taken 
to  Rochester,  and  thence  to  the  falls ;  it  being- 
called  the  Ridge  or  North  road,  and  is  in  a  better 
state  of  repair  generally  than  the  other,  via  Buf- 
falo. We  chose  however  the  hitter,  as  w^^  liad 
f^omc  intention  of  passing  the  other,  on  our  re- 
turn. We  therefore  left  this  place  at  2  p.  m.  and 
entered  the  stage-coach.     The  rest  of  the  com- 


s.-' 


V 


it 


;:i'5^,ji^ 


38 


ii-l 


t    * 


pauy  were  composed  of  the  family  of  a  reverend 
doctor  of  Philadelphia,  consisting  of  his  wife,  and 
two  children,  mother-in-law,  and  her  son  of  about 
fourteen  years  of  age.  They  formed  an  interest- 
ing group  or  domestic  travelling  circle,  which 
we  had  overtaken  once  before,  and  left  at  Little 
Falls. 

On  leaving  Canandaigua  we  proceeded  over  a 
country  rather  more  rough  than  usual,  and  of  a 
sandy  texture.  The  road,  however,  is  not  with- 
out interest  as  it  passes  near  the  great  canal. 
The  channel  is  elevated  upon  a  high  earthen 
mound.  The  Irondequoit  is  conducted  beneath, 
through  a  long  and  capacious  funnel.  These 
works  will  finish  the  section  as  far  as  the  Ton- 
newanta,  and  from  appearance  are  the  most  gigan- 
tic on  the  whole  route.  There  is  much  labour  be- 
stowed in  transporting  earth  for  the  mound. 
From  these  exertions  it  is  necessarily  admitted 
that  New-York  as  a  state  will  stand  pre-eminent 
for  her  improvements,  and  afford  an  example  wor- 
thy of  imitation. 

We  passed  through  East  and  West  Bloonifield^ 
Lima,  and  Avon,  small  neat  villages  ;  and  a  ride 
of  twenty-seven  miles  brought  us  to  the  Genesee 
landbig,  where  there  is  a  small  inn,  and  but 
ipdiflPerent  accommodations.     Our  party  alighted 


'-i^' 


s$ 


at  an  early  hour,  at  this  place,  about  a  mile 
distant  from  the  river ;  for  it  appeared  there  was 
no  choice  or  arrangement  left,  but  to  make  this 
the  lodging  place  for  the  night.  A  room  was 
selected  with  three  beds,  and  no  other  inconve- 
nience arose,  but  that  two  adjoining  chambers 
communicated  with  ours.  We  determined  at  all 
hazards  to  put  up  with  travellers^  foi'<^-  Supper 
was  announced,  and  to  our  great  satisfaction,  we 
found  it  served  up  in  a  very  agreeable  style  :  and 
when  this  was  finished  we  retired  to  our  cham- 
ber, in  order  to  continue  our  usual  practice  of 
employing  a  few  hours  at  the  Journal. 

6th.  Our  company  was  just  enough  for  a 
stage. load,  and  being  all  assembled  at  the  hour 
of  four,  we  left  Genesee  landing,  and  crossed  a 
covered  bridge  in  about  a  mile.  The  stages  on 
this  route  are  very  much  improved,  and  the  teams 
are  of  the  finest  sort  The  former,  in  addition 
to  being  commodious  and  well  swung,  have  cross 
back-straps  to  the  middle  seats;  which  make  these 
preferable.  The  baggage  is  suspended  from  the 
body  of  the  stage,  by  a  chain  from  the  top,  so  as 
effectually  to  prevent  chafing.  What  I  also  e- 
marked  was,  that  instead  of  black,  the  top  and  of- 
ten the  sides  are  painted  almost  of  a  white  colour. 
It  is  supposed  this  will  be  more  durable;  at  any 


i  'v 


\-M 


^:,:. 


^.m 


.JI^,^m-^•*imr■:■t■■**^_^  « 


60 


% 


\'    ) 


n  n^ 


vate  a  good  purpose  is  effected,  by  preventing 
the  heat  of  the  sun  from  striking  through. 

Passing  through  Caledonia  or  Big  Spring,  a 
small  village,  we  arrived  at  Le  Roij^  to  breakfast ; 
which  is  twelve  miles  ;  and  thence  four  miles 
farther  is  Stafford.  These  villages  are  small,  but 
contain  many  brick  houses.  From  an  eminence 
at  the  distance  of  three  miles,  I  perceived  Batavia^ 
a  very  neat  town  and  handsome  situation.  It 
contains  twelve  hundred  inhabitants,  and  about 
two  hundred  houses.  A  new  church  has  lately 
been  erected,  which  was  subscribed  to  by  both 
Presbyterian  and  Episcopal  denominations.  It 
is  something  modeled  like  the  one  at  Canandai- 
gua,  being  too  short  for  its  breadth  j  but  it  is  built 
of  brick  instead  of  frame.  The  main  street  of 
this  town  is  a  mile  in  length. 

In  the  vicinity  is  an  immense  quantity  of 
lands,  belonging  to  the  Holland  Land  Company ; 
the  agent  for  which,  Mr.  O.  of  Philadelphia,  we 
met  at  Batavia.  Lands  are  not  much  improved, 
through  the  country  over  which  we  have  come 
to-day.  They  are  generally  of  good  quality,  and 
on  lime-stone  bottoms  ;  at  least  this  description 
of  soil  extends  in  a  ledge  of  thirteen  miles  be- 
yond Batavia.  The  first  year  of  clearing  lands 
produces  no  crops  ;  and  it  requires  an  industrious 


i.i 


61 


fanner  to  get  in  seed,  the  second  year.     /  {ter 
the  trees  are  cut  down,  they  roust  be  burnt,  and 
the  ashes  produced  are  the  only  emolument,  for 
the  first  year.     It  will  cost  twelve  dollars  per  acre 
to  clear  lands  effectually,  so  as  to  leave  nothing 
but  the  stumps  of  the  trees.     When  there  is  not 
sufficient  time  to  do  this  the  trees  are  only  girted, 
the  sap  being  down  ;   this  operation  soon  kills 
them,  but  they  are  suffered  to  remain  in  the  field,  till 
a  convenient  opportunity  occurs  for  removing  or 
burning  them .    In  a  few  years  they  will  all  rot  away 
of  their  own  accord  except  the  trunk,  and  the  land 
thus  prepared  will  produce  yearly  crops ;  but  this  is 
only  adopted  as  a  dernier  or  expeditious  mode, 
where  a  field  must  be  hastily  put  into  grain.  It  ex- 
emplifies the  motto,  that  "lazy  people  take  the  most 
pains."     The  price  of  labour  per  day  is  equal  to 
two  bushels  of  wheat,  in  this  country.     This  is 
made  the  current  commodity  in  consequence  of 
the  want  of  money,  as  is  usual  in  most  of  the 
western  states.     In  this  day's  ride  an  opportunity 
occurred   of    seeing,   what    they    call    gridiroji 
bridges  or    roads.     They   are  made  by  felling 
trees,  and  laying  the  trunks  close  along  side  of 
one  another.     The  interstices  are  attempted  to  be 
filled  up  with  dirt.     You  are  dragged  slowly  over 
these  roads  in  the  most  dreadful  agitation  j  re- 

r 


■iviii^J 


-^^ist*  V 


62 


W 


V. 


•  * 


sfembling  the  motion  occasioned  by  the  pitching 
of  a  ship  at  sea.  At  this  rate  of  perpetual  jar- 
ring, bruising,  and  tossing,  we  worried  over  these 
uncultivated  wilds,  without  meeting  any  thing 
worthy  of  notice,  or  being  one  moment  sufficiently 
collected  to  adjust  an  occurring  thought.  The 
intervening  places  from  Batavia  to  Buffalo  are 
Pembroke,  Clarence,  and  WiUiamsvtlle ;  in  which 
there  is  nothing  particularly  remarkable.  At  no 
considerable  distance  from  the  road  is  the  Indian 
village  of  the  Tonnewanta  tribe.  We  were  met 
by  a  squaw,  who  came  up  to  the  stage  to  sell  whor- 
tleberries, f 

Ati  S  p.  M.  we  got  into  Buffalo.  This  town, 
situated  at  the  outlet  of  Lake  Erie,  has  flourished 
very  considerably  since  the  war  ;  when  it  was 
burnt,  by  the  English.  It  contains  a  neat  church, 
bank,  and  court-house,  with  other  public  build- 
ings. Its  situation  is  highly  advantageous,  form- 
ing the  grand  line  of  communication  by  the  lakes, 
with  the  western  states  of  the  Union  and  the 
two  Canadas  ;  as  also,  with  the  eastern  states, 
by  means  of  the  canal  which  has  just  been  opened. 
The  celerity  with  which  this  town  has  risen  from 
its  ashes,  and  still  continues  to  flourish,  is  indica- 
tive of  an  unusual  degree  of  enterprise  among 
its  inhabitants. 


'A.—:^;>*,- 


63 


7th.  We  left  our  accommodations,  at  the  prin- 
cipal inn  at  this  place,  which  were  of  the  most 
satisfactory  kind,  immediately  after  breakfast  j 
and  departed  for  Black  Rock  ferry,  two  miles  dis- 
tant. This  place  contains  some  good  houses  si- 
tuated on  the  banks  of  the  Niagara,  and  com- 
manding a  fine  prospect  of  the  lake.  The  cur- 
rent runs  here  at  the  rate  of  seven  miles  per 
hour,  and  the  river  is  three-fourths  of  a  mile 
wide. 

Immediately  on  crossing,  innumerable  quanti- 
ties of  swallows  are  seen  hovering  round,  and 
feeding  on  swarms  of  flies,  which  abound  in  these 
parts.  They  have  demolished  every  leaf  of  some 
few  trees,  where  they  alight ;  supplying  their 
place  with  ten  times  greater  numbers,  than  the 
bared  limbs  before  possessed.  From  Buffalo  to 
Niaga»'a  Falls,  by  the  Canada  side,  is  twenty 
miles.  The  road  proceeds  along  the  bank  of  the 
river,  and  is  but  little  varied  j  though  sandy,  the 
intervening  country  is  well  cultivated,  but  the 
liouses  are  of  a  meaner  description  than  those  on 
the  American  side.  We  observed  also  on  the 
way  a  great  number  of  ducks  and  other  water 
fowls,  as  also  snipe  and  plover.  Perched  on  a 
blasted  pine  two  eagles  sat ;  as  if  portending  that 
these  domains,  one  day  seceding  from  the  British 


m 


m 


'S 


'^.A 


crown,  woald  rally  under  the  banner  of  that  na- 
tion, which  has  adopted  this  soaring  bird  as  the 
emblem  of  her  glory.  America  may  be  said  to 
possess  the  comprehensive  grasp,  and  penetrating 
eye  of  the  eagle  ;  and  continues  with  youthful 
vigour  to  make  advances  in  improvements, — in 
agriculture, — and  in  commerce.  Chippewa,  where 
the  famous  battle  was  fought  and  victory  obtained 
by  the  Americans,  is  situated  on  a  level  spot  three 
utiles  from  the  Falls.  We  had  almost  passed 
quietly  by,  had  we  not  been  pointed  to  the  place 
of  the  battle  grounds,  where  the  British  and 
Amei'ican  arms  have  clashed  in  fierce  array. 
"  Sic  transit  gloria  mundi,^'*  .     , 


•/\r    l\ 


CHAPTER  VII. 


NIAGARA    FALLS. 


The  emotions  which  arise  in  the  mind,  on  be- 
holding this  wonderful  work  of  Nature,  are  ex- 
tremely difficult  to  be  described.  ' 

•*  Strange  !  there  should  be  found, 
Who,  satisfied  with  only  pencii'd  scenes, 
Prefer  to  the  performance  of  a  God 
Th'  inferior  wonders  of  an  artist's  hand ! 
.    Lovely  indeed  the  mimic  works  of  Art;    . 
But  Nature's  works  far  lovelier." 


N 

-  ) 


Accustomed,  as  we  are  from  early  life,  to  hear 
the  representations  of  others  concerning  great 
curiosities,  with  interest;  there  is  unconsciously 
treasured  up  in  the  mind  a  prepossessed  opinion  : 
but  when  the  sight  bursts  on  our  astonished 
view,  a  quick  recollection  recurs,  which  not 
unfrequently  produces  a  disappointment,  in  pro- 
portion to  the  dissimilitude  of  the  picture. 
Some  of  the  interrogatories,  revolving  in  the 
mind''s  eye  upon  such  occasions,  are  suggested 

F   2 


|„ 


I 


V 


'  €-*- *l«>Mi»».#*^'- '1l!^^^..^py^'^J^^  '■' 


66 


1 


from  an  ipiperfect  representation  of  the  real  ac- 
count, or  from  misconceptions  of  our  own  fancy. 
The  vision  is  incorrect  in  most  instances,  which 
the  imagination  has  presented,  from  impressions 
previously  received  ;  thus  therefore  does  the  dis- 
appointment arise,  and  the  mortification  of  exag- 
gerated circumstances,  from  the  diminution  of 
splendour,  beauty,  or  greatness  occasioned  by  a 
real  discovery  of  what  had  before  been  depicted. 
So  in  an  eminent  degree  is  the  contrary  expe- 
rienced, with  respect  to  the  Falls  of  Niagara. 
"Whatever  idea  before  existed  ; — whatever  the 
fondness  for  decorating  in  vivid  colours,  the  ter- 
rific splendour,  and  the  wonders  of  this  scene  ; — 
all  is  but  faintly  conceived  ;  all  lost  in  the  daz- 
zling glow  of  astonishment.  The  power  of  fan- 
cy, has  fled  from  the  aerial  castle ; — surprise  and 
pleasure  have  usurped  the  place  of  disappoint- 
ment :  while  the  senses,  grasping  at  the  opening 
expanse  presented  at  one  view,  are  bewildered  in 
ecstasy  ;  and  witiv  incessant  ardour  plunge  into 
an  unfathomable  ocean  of  ever-widening  subli- 
mity. 

Such  are  the  unexaggerated  impressions  made: 
let  me  attempt  to  be  as  minute,  as  my  few  days' 
continuance  at  this  place  have  enabled  me,  in  deli- 
neating the  respective  beauties  of  different  views. 


H 


II 


f'    ' 


'■/• 


67 


The  first  which  I  took,  was  from  a  projecting 
point  of  the  plain,  directly  in  front  of  the  horse- 
shoe.*    The  curve  which  has  been  hollowed  out 
contains  by  far  the  heaviest  sheet  of  water.    From 
being  deepest  at  the  centre,  there  is  a  gradual  de- 
crease either  way ;  i.  e.  (retaining  the  idea  of  the 
fsh-hook^  at  the  bearded  part  of  which  the  ob- 
server is  supposed  to  stand)   to  the  point  of  vi- 
sion,   and   to   Iris    Island.     Carrying  your   eye 
along  the  stem  of  the  hook,  on  the   edge  of  this 
island,  the  view  is  unbroken,  till  arriving  at  a 
small  intermediate  fall,  and  then  another  island 
brings  you  to  the  American  fall,  which  completes 
the  stem  ;  making  three  distinct  falls.     The  ef- 
fect is  increased,  by  reason  of  the  fall  on  the 
American  side  being  higher  by  fifteen  feet ;  and 
the   water  being  quite  shallow,  loses   its  green 
appearance  at  the  top,  and  is  immediately  con- 
verted into  foam.  ■      ■ :.  ..    ., 

An  awful,  stunning  noise,  deeper  than  thunder, 
is  the  irresistible  effect  on  the  beholder,  at  his 
first  approach  to  the  Falls.  In  the  words  of  a 
tourist :     "  You    must  behold  at  one    view,"— 

the    lofty  banks  and  immense  woods,   which 


41 


*  Very  commonly  thus  called  from  the  shape ;  but  perhaps  the 
idea  of  the  Falls  is  more  correct  which  may  be  derived  from  a 
^h-hook,  laid  horizontally,  with  the  water  falling  through  the 
inside  bend  or  incurvation. 


(  k 


J 


i<i 


''i-r' 


•->  ,„,.  ^^. 


\^- 


.  '  t. 


/I, 


/  • 


68 

environ  this  stupendous  scene,  the  irresistible, 
force,  the  rapidity  of  motion,  displayed  by  the 
rolling  clouds  of  foam,  the  uncommon  brilliancy 
and  variety  of  colours  and  of  shades,  the  cease- 
less intumescence  and  swift  agitation  of  the 
dashing  waves  below,  the  solemn  and  tremendous 
noise,  with  the  volumes  of  vapour  darting  up- 
wards into  the  air,  which  the  simultaneous  re- 
port and  smoke  of  a  thousand  cannon  could 
scarcely  equal," — "  before  the  mind  can  feel  the 
real  grandeur  inspired  by  this  truly  magnificent 
and  sublime  prospect."  ,    .,> 

A  stream  of  vapour  issues  constantly  from  the 
Falls.  It  may  in  shape  be  likened  to  a  spacious 
tree,  whose  branches  bend  and  wave  with  the 
violence  of  the  winds.  At  one  time  volumes  of 
spray  rolling  thousands  of  feet  into  the  air,  min- 
gle with  the  clouds  above.  Their  watery  canopy 
spreads  over  the  chasm,  assuming  all  imaginable 
forms.  It  appears,  at  a  distance,  like  morning 
dew  which  ascends  the  mountain  heights  : — agair; 
it  resembles  the  cloud  of  smoke  rolling  in  im- 
mense volumes  from  Etna's  burning  fire  ;  and 
with  uplifted  arches  aspires  to  prop  high  Heaven. 
Now  it  rises  higher  and  higher,  with  oblations 
to  the  skies. 

Qth,  The  next  day  after  our  arrival,  we  con- 
cluded to  make  further  excursions  j  and  therefore 


W  .: 


^^••Ail.^i 


uy 


.^^-^i" 


69 

discontinued  for  the  present,  tracing  the  fancied 
figures  in  the  spray,  which  the  brightness  of  a 
morning  sun  began  to  dissipate.  It  may  be  ob- 
served that,  early  in  the  day,  this  spray  rises 
much  higher,  forming  immense  clouds,  which, 
when  there  is  no  wind  prevailing,  hover  over  the 
river,  a  little  below  the  Falls,  and  mingle  their 
dark  columns  with  the  atmosphere.  From  hence 
it  returns  upon  the  earth  like  rain,  or  showers  of 
dripping  dew.  The  surrounding  romantic  spot 
is  thus  rendered  fertile.  The  interstices  that  se- 
parate the  rocks  (which,  from  time  to  time,  fall  off 
from  the  steep  bank),  collect  a  soil,  suitable  for 
vegetation.  At  a  small  distance  below  the  Falls, 
trees  of  various  kinds  have  fixed  their  roots,  be- 
neath the  impending  cliff.  Their  branches  en- 
twining, form  a  thick  spreading  alcove  of  under- 
wood, and  thus  add  to  the  wildness  of  the  scene. 
In  some  places,  the  interruption  is  so  great,  from 
roots  and  broken  fragments,  as  to  prevent  passing. 
The  spot  is  altogether  interesting  and  diversified  : 
long  bending  grass  and  aquatic  plants  are  seen 
in  abundance,  mingling  their  beauties,  with  a 
fragrant  wildness.  Gay  flowers  of  the  forest  lift 
up  their  luxuriant  heads,  and  flourish  in  brightest 
hues,  amid  aun-beams  and  the  moisture  of  perpe- 
tual spray. 


«•,- 


M*r:.\i 


to 


70 

We  descended  to  this  valley,  by  a  staircase, 
on  the  Canada  side.  In  consequence  of  the  swell 
just  about  here,  it  is  necessary  to  drag  the  boat 
upon  the  shore,  to  keep  her  from  drifting.  The 
Charon  had  just  returned  from  ferrying  a  party 
over  the  river,  and  was  waiting  our  approach. 
We  got  into  the  boat,  and  he  tugged  lustily  at  the 
oar,  till  we  gained  the  opposite  side.  The  water 
here  is  said  to  be  a  hundred  and  fifty  feet  deep, 
and  the  current  is  so  strong,  as  to  produce  nume- 
rous eddies  and  whirlpools.  A  foam  is  constantly 
spread  over  the  surface,  adding  beauty  to  the 
bHght  green  colouring  of  the  witer.  The  boat- 
men often  venture  up  between  the  Falls ;  in 
which  attempt,  the  boat  is  not  unfrequently 
"whirled  round  ;  but  there  is  not  any  actual  dan- 
ger. The  scene  is  really  magnificent !  Billows 
concealing  rocks,  and  then  rebounding  from 
them  with  reiterated  violence,  open  fresh  terrors 
to  the  view.  Islands  of  rocks  are  seen,  and 
clumps  of  trees  scattered  among  them  ;  over 
which  the  rolling  wave  dashes  with  such  force 
as  frequently  to  conceal  the  opposite  shore- 
Like  the  violence  of  a  tempestuous  ocean  which 
Homer  describes  : 


; 


HovTS  *lKctpietej  Tec  f^iv  t'  Eupoi  re  NdT3>-  rt 
''Slpa^*,  tTrcti^ct^  ■trcc'if'oi;  Aioq  ix,  vf^eAeciWv. 


bkl^ 


;v^ji' 


-^■■•4- 


— -      .  ..»^.-— ■*T*^--, .    ,  .^r^SA, . 


J»l 


At  the  foot  of  the  Falls,  a  spiral  staircase  also 
is  erected  on  the  American  side,  for  the  conve- 
nience of  travellers,  to  lead  down  to  the  margin  of 
the  stream :  the  view  from  this  staircase  is  very 
sublime.  The  foot  of  it  is  about  eighty  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  water ;  and  is  reached  by 
passing  over  rough  fragments  of  stone.  You  ap- 
proach very  near  the  spray ;  but  the  stones  are  so 
exceedingly  rugged  here,  that  this  is  not  done 
without  difficulty.  The  rainbow  appears  in  many 
different  positions,  caused  by  the  constant  vary- 
ings  of  the  spray.  But  on  this  side  there  is  no 
possible  admittance  under  the  sheet  of  water.     ' 

It  was  the  intention  of  my  two  rompanions  and 
self,  to  spend  the  day  on  Goat  Island.     On  our 
way  we   called  at  the  hotel,  on  the    American 
side  ;  which  is  by  no  means  as  eligible  a  situation 
as  the  Ontario  Hotel,  or  the  Pavilion  on  the  other. 
Having  crossed  the  first  bridge  to  an  island,  we 
proceeded   thence,  to  Goat  or  Iris  Island.     To 
the  romantic  walks,  which  intersect  this  wild  spot, 
Judge  P.  has  lately  erected  another  bridge.     The 
small  island  across  which  the   bridge  passes,  is 
called  Bath  Island,  where  the  toll-keeper's  dwell- 
ing, and  a  commodious  bath-house  are  erected. 
Iris  Island  is  covered  with  groves,  growing  in 
•wild  profusion,  and  interspersed  with  a  thickly 


'/■' 


«  :1 


!9F1 


/' 


M 


-  v  ■ 


,;^ifcii: 


72 


! 


t  r. 


f!i 


^  \ 


r 


'I 


r  -llf  }iU 


strewed  under-brush,  almost  impassable.  Through 
M-indings,  gloom,  and  luxuriance,  the  wandering 
footstep  treads  an  uneven  course,  while  the  ear 
is  stunned  by  the  deep  thrilling  sound, 

•'  Loud  as  the  surges  when  the  tempest  blows, 
Tliat  ilashM  on  broken  rocks  tumultuous  roar, 
And  foam  and  lltundcr  on  the  stony  shore." 

Suddenly  from  a  precipice  of  more  than  two  hun- 
dred feet,  are  seen  on  the  right  and  on  the  left, 
the  two  Falls,  tumbling  their  immense  volumes. 
You  behold  an  ocean  dashing  its  foaming  billows, 
over  ten  thousand  rocks,  into  the  bed  of  the  river 
below  ;  and  forcing  with  irresistible  madness  its 
impeded  course !  The  sudden  resistance, — the 
awe — with  the  eflcct  altogether  of  this  secluded 
retreat,  draws  the  mind  involuntarily  into  medita- 
tions, religious  and  truly  sublime.  If  any  idea 
can  convict  man  of  his  own  comparative  lit- 
tleness, it  is  the  contrast  here  exhibited  of  the 
power  and  greatness  of  God  in  the  works  of 
Nature.  These  are  even  distinguishable  in  the 
minutest  particle  of  matter,  in  the  incomprehen- 
sible distribution  of  animal  functions,  and  of  life 
to  beings  innumerable.  The  blessed  light  of  the 
Gospel,  and  immortality  are  conferred  on  man ; 
while  myriads  of  inferior  creatures  quit    this 


-  **■  'i^^^Ii^ '— ■*'PlK'^' 


''"'■■:(,■'"      ■"''■' 


73 

stage  of  existence,  after  a  course  of  comparative 
insignificance.  Man  is  led  to  view  all  as  in- 
comprehensible,— himself  and  all  the  other  works 
of  Deity,  only  tending  as  it  were  towards  one 
grand  plan  of  Creation  ;  and  hence,  in  wonder, 
ecstasy,  and  unceasing  admiration,  appears  com- 
pletely lost !  He  is  led  to  consider  the  humility 
of  his  own  nature,  and  to  exclaim  with  Job,  to  the 
great  Author  of  all  things  :  "  IVhat  is  man,  that 
Zhou  shouldefit  magniftj  him  ?  and  that  thou 
shoiildcst  set  thiJie  heart  nj)07i  him  ?'''* 

From  the  Table  Rock,  which  projected  up- 
wards of  fifty  feet  before  its  fall  (in  part)  a  few 
years  ago,  similar  ideas  of  the  grandeur  of  the 
Cataract  are  excited.  In  looking  over  this  tre- 
mendous precipice,  horror  seizes  the  inmost 
feeling.  The  point  of  projection  extends  shelv- 
ing over  the  frightful  gulph,  by  a  thin  layer  of 
rocks,  at  the  top,  about  two  feet  in  thickness ; 
under  which  it  is  completely  hollowed  out. 
Few  j)ersons  dare  look  over  without  extend- 
ing themselves  flat.  The  appearance  of  any 
one  on  the  rock,  in  an  erect  posture,  when 
looking  down,  will  thrill  the  stoutest  heart. 
The  beholder,  however,  is  amply  remunerated, 
by  the  view  from  this  spot.  At  first,  deep 
amazement  is  wrought   into   the  sublime  ;  and 

G 


1^^ 


i  % 


(1 


I   it' 


J^v 


1/ 


■i 


iY 


m 


74 

soon  changes  to  the  terrible.  A  vast  and 
gloomy  cavern  below,  in  which  the  whirlwind 
constantly  plays, — the  agitated  waters  in  the 
abyss, — together  with  the  stunning  noise, — all 
conspire  to  strike  the  attention.  Eyes,  ears,  and 
heart  are  arrested.  On  beholding  the  immense 
masses  which  have  occasionally  fallen,  you  can- 
not help  shuddering  at  the  dreadful  possibility, 
that  the  next  moment  may  precipitate  that  por- 
tion on  which  you  are  standing.  Still  you 
stand,  and  gaze  on  the  terrific,  infatuating  pro- 
spect. At  this  moment  a  lovely  rainbow  dis- 
plays its  brightening  beauties  to  the  sun.  It  rises 
from  the  foot  of  the  Cataract,  as  divided  by  Iris 
Island  ;  which  it  encircles  in  its  curve  towards 
the  American  sheet.  When  seen  under  the  ad- 
vantages of  a  powerful  mid-day  sun,  the  hues 
assume  a  brighter  and  more  vivid  appearance. 
Beneath  the  impending  arch,  which  snozv  white 
froth  supports,  is  stretched  the  varying  screen, 
tipped  in  crimson  hues  or  blazing  gold.  This 
rainbow  assumes  a  different  form,  according  to 
the  motion  of  the  spray.  Let  me  not  pass  un- 
noticed here  the  sheet  of  water,  as  seen  from  this 
spot.  In  the  centre  of  the  Fajl,  where  it  is  hea- 
viest, the  water  assumes  a  clear  green  appearance, 
and  leaps  in  unbroken  columns  of  the  same  hue ; 
rill  meeting,  they  are  lost  in  the  foam  of  the  ba- 


7b 


yin.     The  horse-shoe  thus  continues  to  hollow 
out,  from  the  constant  weight  of  water,  which 
draws  towards  the  centre,  as  it  approaches  to 
take  the  leap.     Its  course   seems  partially  inter- 
rupted by  a  small  island,  at  no  considerable  dis- 
tance above  the  Falls.     There  was  seen  on  this 
island,  a  little  while  ago  for  several  days  togetherj 
a  deer  ;  but  disappearing  in  the  night,  he   must 
no   doubt   have    descended   the    Falls.     Several 
other  islands  and   rocks    present  themselves  to 
view  in  the  rapids  above,  within  the  distance  of 
three  quarters  of  a  mile.     Upon  the  whole,  this 
view  of  the  rapids,  is  as  interesting  as  any  other 
which  the  Falls   afford :  it  is   incomprehensibly 
grand  to  behold  the  entire  current  of  the  river, 
rushing  over  uneven  rocks,  in  a  descent  of  about 
eighty  feet,  and  bearing  down  all  resistance,  with 
sweeping  impetuosity.     The  effect  is  heightened, 
from  the  Table  Rock,  as  the  whole  length  of  the 
rapids  is  seen.     The   velocity  of  the  stream,  its 
amazing  power,  its  white  rufHed  surface,  and  sea 
of  foam,  raised  by  the  ineffectual  opposition  of 
rocks,  that   in  promiscuous  confusion  lie  strew- 
ed over  its  bed  ;  all  which,  together  with  what 
the  eye  at  any  single  glance  embraces,  conspire 
to  elevate  the  soul  to  *he  exalted  pinnacle  of  sub- 
limity.   Surely,  thought  I,  in  this  rapturous  gaze, 


il  ;!| 


^\    1 


f>  <1 


.i.» 


IV 


n  i 


te 

no  where  has  nature,  among  all  her  works,  con- 
trived to  throw  together  so  much  beauty,  with 
such  terrific  grandeur. 

In  contemplating  the  views  which  surround  the 
Falls,  it  will  be  perceived  how  admirably  adapted, 
for  displaying  all  its  beauties,  is  the  present  form : 
indeed  were  any  other  assumed,  the  birds'Cye  viezv 
would  be  lost  ;  whereas  now  the  whole  is  com- 
prehended. From  the  roof  of  the  Pavilion,  I 
have  often  been  sated  by  the  delights  of  this 
rapturous  prospect :  it  is  the  highest  point  of  ele- 
vation. Over  against  you  is  Iris  and  the  other 
island,  breaking  the  Falls,  called  the  American 
and  Canada;  which  otherwise  had  been  united 
into  one.  In  front  of  these  islands  is  a  precipice 
of  impending  rocks,  encircled  to  the  very  edge, 
by  graceful  trees  ;  which  extend  their  beauteous 
verdure  to  diversify  and  overlook  the  scenery,  of 
this  romantic  spot.  A  ddep  chasm  below  is  seen, 
into  which  the  river  tumbles,  and  is  lost  to  the 
view ;  while  the  mind  is  left  musing,  in  astonish- 
ment. The  view  to  the  north,  is  bounded  by  a 
wild  unbroken  forest,  and  surrounding  hills,  not 
sufficiently  high  and  distant ;  so  that  they  inter- 
cept, and  render  it  limited :  in  no  other  way 
does  the  scenery  appear  defective.  To  the  south 
and  east,  the  view  is  more  open ;  and  there  is  a 


gradual  declivity  near  the  river,  which  extends 
its  flat  surface  to  a  considerable  distance,  above 
the  rapids.  In  this  direction  the  landscape,  which 
a  few  years  ago  afforded  but  a  dreary  waste,  is 
now  diversified  with  villas  and  improving  farms. 
The  savage  hunter  of  these  wilds  may  look,  with 
melancholy  hopelessness,  on  the  loss  of  his  pa- 
ternal inheritance. 

9th.  There  is  a  collection  of  mills  and  fac- 
tories, ranged  along  on  the  American  side,  as  also 
on  the  British  :  from  any  of  them  the  view  of 
the  rapids  is  fine.  I  think  the  best  is  from  the 
village  which  is  distinguished  by  the  name  of 
Manchester,  from  whence  the  bay  extends  east- 
ward towards  Navy  and  Grand  Island.  The  view 
also  from  the  eastern  side  of  Goat  Island,  is 
much  of  the  same  kind.  The  river  or  strait  of 
Niagara,  after  reuniting  below  Grand  Island,  pur- 
sues a  w^esterly  course  for  three  miles,  and  at 
the  Falls  turns  suddenly  rorth-east.  Before  ar- 
riving at  the  bend,  the  stream  is  contracted,  from 

• 

one  mile  and  a  half  to  three  quarters,  in  breadth ; 
and  dashing  with  impetuosity,  like  a  troubled 
ocean,  descends  for  half  a  mile  over  an  uneven 
bed  of  vocks,  and  tumbles  into  the  gulph  at  thv^ 
point  of  the  angle.  The  gradual  de&xent  of  these 
rapids  is  computed  at  more  than  seventy  fcet^ 

Q  2 


^ 


^^ 


•*   ..    V  ■    ,  .* 


■■i    -.■-•toi.JH*.'.,.^..  , 


78 


i/M 


/ 


k 


Both  the  foam  of  the  current,  and  its  velocity,  oon- 
spire  to  render  this  prospect  pleasing,  particularly 
if  viewed  in  a  horizontal  direction.  Whatever 
comes  in  reach  is  drawn  by  the  suction  towards 
the  middle  of  the  stream,  and  must  inevitably 
be  precipitated  over  the  Falls.  It  is  dangerous 
to  pass  across  the  river,  and  never  attempted 
even  at  two  miles  above  the  Falls,  by  the  most 
experienced  boatmen.  Not  long  ago  two  young 
men,  becoming  intoxicated,  had  anchored  their 
canoe  near  Chippewa,  and  fell  asleep.  Too  late 
was  it  discovered,  that  they  had  drifted,  and 
were  drawn  into  the  current,  without  the  possi- 
bility of  any  relief.  One  of  them  leaped  out 
into  the  stream,  and  the  other,  adhering  to  the 
canoe,  was  precipitated  into  the  gulph.  Both 
were  dashed  in  pieces  against  the  rocks,  without 
any  trace  or  vestige  being  left.  Every  thing 
precipated  from  these  Falls,  meets  with  the  same 
fate.  Even  logs  are  ground  in  pieces,  sawing 
against  one  another  as  they  descend,  or  lodge  by 
the  way.  They  appear  below,  shattered  and 
ground  at  the  ends,  or  shivered  by  the  weight  cl 
water.  In  the  same  manner  animals  of  every 
description,  even  water-fowl  coming  down  are 
dashed  and  killed,  or  crippled.  At  particular 
seasons,  the  persons  who  wait  to  pick  up  the 
game  which  descends,  are  amply  remunerated 


ro 


for  their  pains.  Fish  too  are  not  unfrequently 
taken  up  below,  rendered  lifeless  by  the  weight 
of  falling  water. 

There   is  but  one  more  description,  which  I 
shall  give  of  these  interesting  parts ;  and  that  is 
from  the  position,  immediately  under  the  sheet  of 
water.     I  have  dwelt  more  particularly  on  some, 
by  reason  of  the  increasing  beauties,  displayed 
in  each  point  of  view,  that  can  be  taken.     Having 
descended  the  winding  staircase,  on  the  Canada 
side,  my  two  companions  and  I  made  our  way, 
through  eddying  currents  of  wind  and  spray,  and 
over  rugged  piles  of  rocks,  that  have  fallen  from 
the  precipice.     As  you  advance  towards  the  Falls, 
under  the  lee  of  the  curvated  banks,  the  breathing 
is  not  very  difficult ;   and  there  is  here  an  oppor- 
tunity afforded  to  contemplate  the  Cataract.    You 
feel  more   sensible  of  the  height  and  weight  of 
its    waters,  from  this,  than  any  other  position. 
The  imprisoned  ocean  has  burst  its  confines,  and 
makes  the  very   ground   tremble.     The   cavern 
formed  by   the  projecting    rocks,    extends    for 
some  distance  behind  the   sheet  of  water ;  and 
were  not  the  difficulty  of  breathing  great,  its  en- 
trance would  be  easy.     Having  advanced   a  few 
yards  within  the  dark  recess,  we  were  all  driven 
back,  for  want  of  breath,  completely  drenched. 


•r.  ■ 


>(. 


■* «? 


w«-^**',  »,. 


i 


:*<*Br* 


( 


<\i 


V      I 


80 

One  of  my  companions  encouraged  me  to  make 
a  second  attempt,  which  he  also  did,  with  little 
better  success  than  before.  Proceeding  onward 
through  a  copious  shower-bath,  trickling  down  the 
back  to  the  very  pores  of  the  skin,  and  almost 
suffocated  by  the  sulphureous  blast,  I  gained  the 
interior  of  this  watery  cave.  The  difficulty 
had  diminished  after  passing  the  outer  edge  of 
the  Fall,  and  my  guide  assured  me,  that  now 
there  was  no  more  danger,  but  to  keep  from  slip- 
ping. Innumerable  quantities  of  eels,  driven 
from  their  lurking-places  by  our  intrusion,  glid- 
ed between  our  feet,  if  not  trod  upon,  and  rush- 
ed downwards.  But  for  the  whirlwind's  storm 
and  deafening  roar,  these  massy  volumes  might 
be  fancied  the  wall  of  some  fairy  palace.  On 
looking  upwards  the  lucid  stream  appears  curv- 
ing overhead,  illumined  to  phosphoric  bright- 
ness, by  the  piercing  sun-beams ;  and  sustained 
at  the  very  point  of  intersection,  upon  the  dark, 
rocky  pile  which  completes  the  cone  at  its  base. 
Immersed  in  awful  sublimity,  I  paced  the  recesses 
of  this  gloomy  abode,  both  real  and  fanciful, — 
subterraneous, — aerial  and  aquatic, — over  a  floor 
of  shelving  fragments ;  and  without  any  other 
dread  than  that  of  being  crushed  by  a  falling  rock, 
or  precipitated  into  the  unfathomed  abyss.    After 


^i-       'r 


it 


( 


.vV*?:s?r«.4-<' 


._:>.....,.  U,-^>*.»" 


■k 


81 


advancing,  as  far  as  imprudent  curiosity  had 
ever  attempted,  I  attended  to  my  guide's  direc- 
tions, and  retracing  my  steps,  with  a  steady  foot, 
returned  to  the  inn  ;  where  I  joined  my  two  com- 


panions 


* 


•  within  the  distance  of  a  mile  above  the  Falls,  on  the 
Canada  side,  is  to  be  seen  the  bwning  spring,  to  which  I  paid 
•A  visit.  It  is  situated  close  to  the  edge  of  the  river,  and  is  co- 
vered by  a  small  wooden  building.  The  gas  issues  from  a  tube 
inserted  for  the  purpose,  exhibiting  a  bright  red  flame  suffi- 
cient to  ignite  a  candle  or  any  other  combustible  matter,  im- 
irediately  on  being  applied.  In  rainy  weather  the  blaze  burn9> 
more  vividly  than  at  any  other  timci 


r 
L, 


)  : 


'  l-y 


i] 


W-. 


,j|Wr^ff(r^ 


;V''^ 


•  * 


*sl 


J, 


.  1  ■■ 

^      ^           1 

K. 

-•'           1 

'.'■\f:    ■.V.^t^k 

■'      ; 

1 

,.r  .'  ''-.ry 


v-jl 


'*': '-'  lis.'':'  "V-    V'  •  :' 

CHAPI'ER  VIII. 


Departure  from  Niagara  Falls — Route  on  the  Canada  side  : 
Water  Scenery — Newark — Lake  Ontario  :  York  :  Steam* 
Boat :  Sermon  :  Party  on  board — Recollections  of  the 
War. 


s't'- 


',..  ■^^-,-,.  '.'-i- 


«« 


-«*<■ 


The  party  now  began  to  consult  concerning 
the  most  suitable  route,  and  measures  for  our 
return.  We  determined  to  go  by  the  way  of  Lake 
Ontario  and  the  St.  Lawrance  river,  to  Mon- 
treal ;  and  thus  having  settled  matters,  we  set  off 
on  the  10///  of  August^  in  the  afternoon.  It  had 
been  proposed  to  travel  the  Ridge  road*  on  the 
way  to  Rochester,  and  to  take  the  American 
steam-boat,  at  Genesee  river :  but  in  this  I  was 


^.■%^*dr...•    A.  « 


*  This  appellation  is  given  to  the  Ridge  road  in  consequence 
of  its  running  on  a  bank,  supposed  originally  to  have  confined 
Lake  Ontario.  How  far  the  idea  may  be  correct,  I  will  not 
take  upon  me  to  determine,  as  it  involves  a  question  in  the 
theory  of  the  earth  concerning  primitive  formations.  This 
bank  or  ridge,  about  fifteen  feet  high,  is  formed  of  gravel, 
similar  in  quality  to  that  which  is  found  on  the  present  shores 
of  the  lake,  from  which  it  is  distant  between  five  and  eight 
miles.      ■■'•«  ■•••'*■■  ^   -  vx.;' .       ^^-v'-'v 


W 


;-V< 


■,%. 


v^. 


^.yA^^.<^ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


^ 


// 


:/. 


f/i 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


1^ 

m 


IIIIIM 

IIIIM 


1.4 


2.5 


2.2 


12.0 


18 


1.6 


m. 


V] 


^? 


^a 


m  -'*'' 


/. 


'/ 


M 


Photographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREbf 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


o 


i/.A 


'i 


/|pe  '  '•K' 


\ 


84 


I- 


I'i 


>> 


:i. 


'■  i 


t. 


tt 


overruled  by  the  majority,  for  my  two  "  com- 
pagnons  de  voyage^^  rather  than  wait  for  the 
American,  had  concluded  to  try  the  English  boat, 
to  sail  from  Newark.  By  this  means,  we  missed 
seeing  Lewiston,  Fort  George,  the  village  of  the 
Tuscarora  Indians,  and  Sackett^s  Harbour. 

The  road  to  Queen ston  passes  through  a  fine 
country,  where  several  good  farms  are  situated. 
The  settlements  bear  the  appearance  of  having 
been  long  made  ;  and  from  what  I  learnt,  it  does 
not  seem  that  the  inhabitants  considered  the 
taxes  on  their  property  over-burdensome.  We 
stopped  in  the  vicinity  of  Queenston,  to  ascend 
the  Heights,  still  crowned  by  a  redoubt  and  the 
remains  of  batteries ;  where  the  British  general 
fell,  in  the  late  war.  The  prospect  from  this  spot 
is  fine,  and  the  view  commanding  the  river, 
Lewiston,  and  the  adjacent  country,  very  diversi- 
fied. The  town  is  at  the  foot  of  the  Heights,  and  on 
the  water's  edge.  It  appears  rather  in  a  decaying 
condition  ;  and  is  so  situated  that  the  rains  wash 
th«  streets.  The  road  continues  along  the  banks 
of  the  Niagara  pursuing  its  windings.  The  slow, 
solemn  tide  sweeps  through  a  channel  of  rocks, 
in  sullen  dignity.  The  water  assumes  a  deep 
green  appearance,  caused  by  the  shade  of  trees, 
and  height  of  the  banks.    These  gradually  dimi^ 


f.- 


V.      .^.^ii..    .. 


ii--ii^iliin 


,10^- 


So 


;nsome. 


m,  to  ascend 


nish  as  you  approach  the  Ontario  Lake,  from 
three  hundred  to  thh'ty  feet ;  or  rather  the  calcu- 
lation more  properly  applies  to  the  whole  distance 
between  the  falls  and  the  lake.  The  route  is  ren- 
dered interesting  by  the  deep  shade  of  the  waters, 
the  majestic  height  of  the  banks,  and  protruding 
rocks  of  immense  size.  These  overhang  the  pre- 
cipice, around  whose  brow  the  stunted  forest  has 
interwoven  its  bushy  mantle,  and  twined  its  har- 
dy roots.  The  great  depth  of  the  river,  the 
sweeping  impetuosity  of  its  current,  together 
with  the  boldness  of  its  shores,  conspire  to  raise 
in  the  mind  impressions  of  the  sublime.  This 
character  is  remarkable  in  the  water  sc^nerv  of 
America;  her  rivers  collecting  the  waters  of  hills 
and  valleys  innumerable,  roll  their  massy  volumes 
for  thousands  of  miles,  forming  immense  lakes  ; 
and  as  if  impatient  of  this  confinement,  bursting 
again  over  cataracts,  sweeping  violently  through 
rapids,  and  winding  a  deep  channel  in  the  plain, 
their  treasures  are  contributed  to  the  ocean. 

Newark  has  been  rebuilt  since  the  late  war, 
and  its  appearance  is  thought  to  be  much  finer 
than  before.  The  burning  of  this  town  by  an 
individual,  though  disavowed  by  the  American 
public,  was  the  cause  of  a  system  of  warfare 
highly  destructive  and  injurious  on  both  sides. 

H 


.-■^-'•. 


V 


86 


U-  r 


The  inhabitants  of  Lewiston,  Buffalo,  and  Black 
Rock,  together  with  other  villages  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, suffered  dreadfully  at  an  inclement  sea- 
son, from  fire  and  the  devastations  of  the  enemy; 
as  did  also  the  village  of  Tuscarora  Indians.  It 
were  difficult  indeed  to  justify  even  a  retaliatory 
measure  of  this  kind ;  and  therefore  more  to  be 
lamented,  that  the  opprobrium  with  which  the 
presiding  general  was  covered,  for  his  apology  or 
mistake  of  orders,  had  not  effectually  satisfied  the 
armies  on  the  frontiers.  The  sentiment  is  very 
beautifully  expressed  by  a  late  English  traveller  : 
**  Each  nation  may  charge  the  other  with  many 
acts  of  devastation,  and  perhaps  some  unneces- 
sary bloodshed ;  but  each  could  also  call  to 
mind,  amid  many  deeds  of  gallantry,  traits  of 
high  feeling  and  generous  humanity.  Should  the 
reverse  side  of  the  picture  be  alone  retained  in 
sight  ? — Perish  the  records  of  glory,  and  warlike 
achievement,  if  they  serve  but  to  perpetuate  na- 
tional animosities,  and  whet  the  sword  of  a  future 
contest!" 

•  11th.  Previously  to  the  hour  of  starting,  we 
had  supped  at  the  inn.  At  12  o'clock — midnight 
—we  repaired  on  board  the  steam-boat  Frontenac, 
captain  M'K.  when  she  immediately  sailed,  and 
I  as  speedily  took  possession  of  my  birth.     As 


'-.'■■■.ji. 


■>^. . ..,; ,,  .ft 


*  3»=-t!#    *     l\ 


87 

I  fell  asleep  in  a  few  moments  afterwards,  no- 
thing more  ocurred  to  my  knowledge,  till  we  ar- 
rived at  Yo/k  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake. 
The  stir  here  soon  roused  me ;  and  having  shaved 
and  dressed,  I  took  a  walk  on  shore  at  an  earl^ 
hour.  '  -'-'■    ■'■''.'   ■'•*  ^-    -  •      ■-    '    -   :'    '-^^'^■ 

This  place,  commonly  called  Little  Tori,  con- 
tains a  parliament  house,  besides  a  few  other 
public,  and  about  one  hundred  frame  buildings. 
The  seat  of  government  for  the  upper  province 
being  located  at  this  place,  renders  it  in  the  esti- 
mation of  its  inhabitants  of  some  importance; 
but  for  which  circumstance,  the  ascendancy  over 
Kingston  had  long  since  been  lost,  and  York  have 
dwindled  into  an  insignificant  village.  The 
possessors  of  the  property  are  principally  influ- 
ential in  upholding  this  system,  for  the  sake  of 
preventing  a  depreciation.  To  a  stranger  there 
is  nothing  particular  which  strikes  attention,  nor 
does  it  possess  any  advantages,  either  as  a  port 
or  military  post.  The  neck  of  land  which  extends 
into  the  lake  is  very  inappropriately  called  Gibral* 
tar  Point,  bearing  no  kind  of  resemblance  to  the 
place  from  whence  the  name  originated. 

Having  exchanged  some  freight  and  passen- 
gers, we  sailed  again  at  8  a.  m.  Soon  after 
breakfast  it  was    manifest,  that  our  friend  the 


.  a 


'Zmu^.. 


w- 


U- 


88 


I)  : 


reverend  doctor  and  the  captain  had  conferred  t^-'^ 
gether,  for  the  purpose  of  public  worship  ;  and 
the  preparatory  arrangements  on  deck,  with 
chairs,  benches,  8cc.  being  made,  the  service  was 
begun,  to  a  company  of  fifty  or  sixty  according 
to  the  Presbyterian  form.  He  delivered  a  prayer 
suitable  for  the  occasion,  and  introduced  the  Bri- 
tish government  and  royal  family  ;  afterwards  we 
sang  an  hymn,  and  then  followed  the  discourse. 
The  doctor  was  perfectly  at  home  in  extempore 
speaking,  but  I  do  not  consider  that  proverbial 
expressions  comport  with  the  clerical  station. 
Very  unfortunately,  for  the  subject  which  he 
treated,  there  was  too  much  anecdote  introduced ; 
for  it  might  be  perceived,  that  the  risible  facul- 
ties of  his  audience  were  restrained  with  much 
difficulty.  And  indeed  in  such  instances,  as  an 
old  woman  telling  the  parson  who  agreed  with 
her  own  story,  that  she  was  a  very  great  hypo- 
crite, "  you  lie.  Sir  j"  and  of  the  perfect  man 
calling  upon  Whitefield,  and  receiving  from  him 
as  a  trial  thereof,  the  contents  of  the  •wash-hand' 
Boxvlj  in  his  face ; — it  is  not'a  matter  of  surprise, 
that  the  discourse  should  have  left  an  impression 
of  the  volatile,  rather  than  the  serious.  It  was 
observed  too  by  the  sailors,  that  "  he  was  a 
fine  preacher," — "  he  tells  a   good  story." — So 


^^^^JllligMj 


i.j«k*^'- jik.  - 


89 


e  service  was 


apt  is  human  depravity  to  be  uppermost,  that 
every  effort  ought  to  be  made  to  deliver  the  truths 
of  the  gospel  with  that  dignity  which  admits  of  no 
subterfuge,  or  improper  application :  an  error  of  this 
nature  is  but  too  convertible  to  an  improper  use. 
The  party  on  board  were  not  very  numerous, 
but  various  in  character.  It  being  Sunday,  they 
harmonized  the  more,  for  no  kind  of  games  or 
diversions  are  permitted,  as  on  other  days.  The 
bulk  of  our  party  consisted  of  Southerners,  Eng- 
lish,  and  Tankees ;  each  distinguishable  from 
the  other  by  a  marked  peculiarity  of  traits.  The 
first  has  arrived  at  a  degree  of  superciliousness, 
from  the  nature  of  slave-holding ;  which,  impro- 
perly applied,  has  a  tendency  to  make  the  pos- 
sessor rate,  in  his  own  estimation,  among  a  race 
superior  to  the  rest  of  mankind  :  while  the  Eng- 
lishman regards  his  servant  as  a  fellow-being, 
and  does  not  deny  him  the  privelege  of  an  in- 
ferior, at  the  time  of  exacting  the  duty.  The 
one  having  a  sullen  haughtiness  within  himself,  is 
regardless  of  the  world's  opinion  ;  and  throwing 
as  it  were  a  look  around  him,  relies  with  indiffer- 
tnce  on  the  result  of  merit,  which  the  die  has  al- 
ready cast.  He  takes  no  pains  either  to  seek  or 
continue  an  acquaintance  considered  inferior  to 
himself;  but  his  heart  is  warm,  and  his  exertions 

H  2 


'I     'A 


I    jp>    I  «T ,    II   ^O"*^-   •'♦"x— ■  '*■*• 


^»,.«-.<>,V<,. 


-■i«t'K^s^'  ■trA'-ffi^-':' (.   ^.♦_<*-.ri-.v 


90 

ardent,  where  friendship,  or  even  intimacy,  has 
once  commenced.  Neither  is  apt  to  make  advances; 
but  although  you  may  travel  a  week  in  their  com- 
pany, without  much  except  general  conversation, 
it  will  however  easily  be  learnt  from  the  one,  that 
he  is  attached  to  his  country  and  luv/s,  and  from 
the  other,  the  extent  of  his  plantation  and  num- 
ber of  negroes.  With  respect  to  the  Yankee,  I 
have  little  to  remark,  but  that  he  difters  from  the 
other  two,  both  in  enterprise  and  inquisitiveness. 
He  never  is  at  a  loss  for  an  introduction,  and  if 
no  other  mode  suggest  itself,  out  of  mere  good 
nature  he  will  contradict,  in  order  that  light  may 
be  thrown  upon  the  subject  of  conversation. 
The  world  will  ever  continue  indebted  to  his 
brethren  for  a  profundity  of  information,  which 
otherwise  had  mouldered  in  oblivion. — I  have 
not  much  to  say  with  respect  to  the  rest  of  the 
company  ; — the  captain  and  a  few  others  were 
Scotch,  and  the  bulk  of  the  crew  Irishmen ;  either 
of  whose  nations  is  well  calculated  for  arduous 
and  enterprising  pursuits  :  perhaps  none  in  the 
world  under  proper  regulations,  will  sustain  more 
difficulties,  or  go  through  greater  exertion.  They 
are  a  light-hearted  people,  and  carry  on  work 
ivith  much  good  humour.  >  .    .,o   .« 

The  length  of  Lake  Ontario  is  one  hundred 


^...O.^v.,^  ..*>.«..  «K 


,«r^t;A:r-' 


91 


f      Jl 


me  hundred 


and  seventy- one  miles,  the  breadth  variable,  and 
the  circumference  upwards  of  four  hundred  and 
sixty.  The  shores  are  generally  regular  and  low, 
and  there  arc  few  good  harbours.  The  Genesee, 
Black,  and  Oswego  are  the  principal  rivers 
which  empty  into  it,  on  the  southern  shore ;  and 
the  Trent  on  the  northern.  Its  most  common 
depth  is  about  eighty,  but  in  some  places  it  has 
not  been  sounded  at  three  hundred  and  fifty  fa- 
thoms. Though  inferior  in  extent  to  the  remain- 
ing four  great  western  lakes,  its  scenery  and  Is- 
lands, particularly  at  the  eastern  extremity,  are 
not  the  least  interesting. 

12M.  The  two  steam-boats,  which  now  navi- 
gate this  lake,  as  is  usual  on  all  the  American  wa- 
ters, are  very  commodiously  fitted  up.  Our  two 
nights'  lodging,  on  board  theFrontenac,  afforded  a 
good  opportunity,  for  ascertaining  her  accommo- 
dations. Her  state-rooms  contain  four  births  each, 
and  therbeds  and  pillows  have  no  other  inconve- 
nience, except  a  scarcity  of  feathers.  If  one  of  our 
passengers  tells  a  correct  story,  he  took  the  trou- 
ble to  count,  and  found  the  pillow  under  his  head 
to  contain  only  nineteen  feathers  and  a  half.  I 
do  not  pretend  to  vouch  for  this,  as  probably  he 
may  have  made  some  omission.  The  table 
spread  before  us,  was  certainly  very  fairly  sup- 


I 


\¥ 


)    ^-'-% 


»  ^^'^'fls^Sti^'ifrk^i  %\tl  ■t<i-fS*f*\^-l/^*4. 


\l 


smltt'-<.iA. ..«.« 


fl 


-i 


plied ;  which  is  generally  one  of  the  greatest 
comforts,  on  board  of  these  floating  hotels.  The 
works  of  the  Canadian  boat  were  all  cast  in  Eng- 
land ;  but  she  does  not  sail  as  fast,  and  is  said 
in  other  respects,  not  to  be  as  iine,  as  the  Ame- 
rican. The  frigates  and  other  vessels,  employed 
in  the  late  war,  sleep  peaceably  in  the  harbours  : 
and  perhaps  the  spirit  of  discontent,  which  has 
been  twice  called  forth  between  the  two  nations,  is 
at  length  doomed  to  perpetual  rest ; — that  spirit, 
which  almost  was  forgotten,  till  excited  to  action 
again  by  the  Jast  war  :  for  the  assertion  is  tena- 
ble, that  on  the  commencement  of  hostilities, 
there  was  considerable  difficulty  in  bringing  each 
nation  to  coincide  with  the  measure.  Many  in- 
deed could  scarcely  believe  in  England  that  war 
existed,  till  roused  by  reports  ftf  the  capture  of 
their  ships,  one  by  one  ;  and  that  too,  by  a  rival 
young  and  unskilled  in  naval  tactics.  It  wa« 
then  only,  that  war  began  to  assume  a  more  for- 
midable appearance.  But  it  is  now  time  for  the 
contest  to  cease  ;  the  struggle,  which  originally 
existed  for  independence,  has  settled  the  charac- 
ter long  since  of  a  people  ;  to  be  considered  only 
"  as  etiemies  in  war^  in  peace  friends.^^  Liberty 
has  planted  in  the  breast  of  the  American  people 
those  principles,  which  the  more  generous  and 


^..:^.i:v,  •,<■''■'■■  .,'?..- .. 


M«& 


93 

more  thinking  will  ever  continue  to  appreciate, 
as  their  highest  privilege  and  blessing. 


"  Ontario's  ample  breast  is  still, 
And  silence  walks  the  distant  hill ; 
And  summer  barks  are  gently  gliding. 
Where  lately  yonder  war- towers  riding 
Seem'd»  like  leviathans,  to  load 
The  bosom  of  the  groaning  flood. 
Oft  as  grey  dawn  broke  o'er  the  wave. 
Each  hostile  line  stern  greeting  gave, 
And  oft  beneath  the  setting  sun. 
Responsive  peal'd  each  heavy  gun ; 
Then  crouch'd  the  midnight  ambuscade, 
Within  the  pine-wood's  plliar'd  shade. 
And  Indian  war-notes  fiercely  rose, 
A  <Ie»th-dii|^e  to  unwary  foes.*' 


'!.. 


|! 


:     i 


A 


m 


\    I 


.ijata'-jS.  ,*.- 


..->£'A^*-i«.'*^ 


^^"^^"le^? 


\ 


K 


k: 


^':r■,.i,^.^^      ' 


I  ,  .^ 


■  -  .,    ,rt  v. 


.'  t 


V    V 


»    '  n 


.  » 


.*-'' 


I-..  -9 


•J    .'  ,  li 


•^i^j^w--- -.-.■»  ..v(-.«-_    *  ." 


•  >  >  .  ,-, 


r.  .. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


Entrance  into    Kingston— Suggestions  concerning  the  De- 
scent of  the  St.  Lawrence — American  Climate. 


As  we  sailed  towards  Kingston,  the  lake  be- 
came narrower,  and  there  was  more  interest  evi- 
dently excited.  The  view  which  before  present- 
ed in  the  horizon  only  an  unbounded  expanse  of 
water,  now  began  to  be  diversified  with  island 
scenery,  and  the  effects  of  cultivation  grew  more 
apparent  on  the  approaching  shores.  The  sail- 
boat and  batteau  are  seen  piercing  the  smooth  bo- 
som of  the  water,  and  occasionally  the  canoe  of  an 
Indian  ;  while  some  of  the  most  improved  plan- 
tations and  farm  houses  in  Upper  Canada  are 
presented  to  view  along  the  banks.  There  is 
something  also  exceedingly  magnificent  and  im- 
posing to  the  mind  of  a  stranger,  on  approach- 
ing the  harbour  of  Kingston.  The  eastern  side 
consists  of  fortifications,  and  there  is  a  general 
indication  of  military  strength,  marking  an  as- 
pect of  stern  grandeur.  A  row  of  barracks  on 
an  elevated  situation  presents  a  formidable  ap- 


)  » 


'  -s^ghmt»>V  .^.atrt*- ^»^.''  '.Ijf^.-.a^.'TTr 


i-; 


I' 


fill     :■    5 


i    1 

( 


r\ 


96 

pearancc  to  the  visitor  from  the  lake ;  and  on  the 
other  hand  the  rocky  banks  afford  a  solid  foun- 
dation, for  the  low  wooden  buildings  of  the 
town.  f        .:'  . 

Kingston,  once  the  capital  of  Upper  Canada,  is 
pleasantly  situated  at  the  head  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence on  the  north  shore,  opposite  Wolf  Island. 
It  occupies  the  site  of  old  Fort  Frontenac,  and 
has  an  excellent  harbour,  where  the  shipping  on 
Lake  Ontario  for  the  most  part  winter.  The 
large  vessels  which  are  employed  on  the  lake 
seldom  go  down  below  Kingston,  although  the 
river  is  navigable  to  Prescott,  seventy  miles 
further  ;  where,  and  at  Ogdensburgh,  there  are 
situated  depots  for  goods  transported  in  boats  ; 
by  which  means  the  trade  with  lower  Canada 
is  facilitated. 

On  entering  you  immediately  ascend  by  a 
gradual  rise,  which  is  observable  throughout  the 
whole  town.  The  basis  is  on  a  lime-stone  quarry, 
having  only  a  thin  layer  of  earth  upon  the  sur- 
face, and  disposed  in  horizontal  strata  ;  which  of 
course  can  be  raised  without  much  difficulty  for 
immediate  use.  These  advantages  seem  to  have 
been  overlooked  by  the  citizens,  who  still  con- 
tinue without  a  flagged  foot-way,  notwithstanding 
the   thousands  which    are    annually    spent    for 


i^'!>-^':^-'i.'.'  >A43lt!£i^ 


■U 


\     '  M 


h 


ke ;  and  on  the 
I  a  solid  foun- 
lildings  of  the 

oper  Canada,  is 

the  St.  Law- 

:  Wolf  Island. 

Frontenac,  and 

he  shipping  on 

winter.     The 

d  on  the   lake 

1,  although  the 

seventy   miles 

urgh,  there  are 

)rted  in  boats  ; 

lower  Canada 

ascend  by  a 
throughout  the 

•stone  quarry, 

ipon  the  sur- 
•ata  ;  which  of 
h  dinSculty  for 
seem  to  have 
kho  still  con- 

(twithstanding 
lly    spent    for 


97 

other  purposes. **  The  computation  of  its  inha- 
bitants is  about  four  thousand,  some  few  of  whom 
are  Yankees  ;  but  the  bulk  consists  of  English 
and  Scotch  traders.  I  think  the  disparity  of  rank 
between  the  rich  and  the  poor  is  very  remarkable, 
as  well  as  the  neglect  of  education  among  the 
lower  orders.  Local  advantages  have  had  no 
doubt  considerable  influence  in  establishing  this 
ascendancy  among  the  people,  over  the  Ignorant 
French  Canadian.  These  differences  will  always 
exist  in  an  enterprising  and  mercantile,  more  than 
in  an  agricultural  community.  There  seems  also  a 
clashing  between  the  government  and  the  indi- 
vidual interest,  and  thus  are  the  necessary  expen- 
ditures for  beai  deifying  and  improving  the  town 
deferred  :  but  these  circumstances  may  be  ac- 
counted for  more  probably  on  the  supposition, 
that  the  inhabitants,  who  appear  to  be  composed 
of  foreigners,  look  upon  themselves  merely  as 
temporary  sojourners  for  the  sake  of  making  a 
fortune,  which  they  intend  to  spend  in  their  na- 
tive countries.  There  are,  however,  some  regu- 
lar and  capacious  streets,  together  with  a  Market 

*  It  is  stated  that  the  cost  of  the  St.  Lawrence  frigate 
amounted  to  ^300,000,  and  that  the  disbursements  at  Kings- 
ton during  the  last  war  were  =giOOO  Sterling  per  diem. 


II 


i 


sd 


■  ■^■^■'.■",;*kw.L. 


miiM^- 


98 


>*• 


/     I 


V 


I. 


place,  Episcopal  church,  Hospital,  and  small  Thea- 
tre, built  by  the  military  for  private  performances, 
and  a  few  neat  buildings  of  stone,  though  the 
generality  are  constructed  of  wood.  It  contains 
also  many  stores  and  warehouses,  and  the  wharves 
are  lined  with  sloops  and  batteaux,  which  indi- 
cate a  place  suitable  for,  though  there  is  evident- 
ly visible  what  is  usually  termed  a  stagnation  in, 
business.  The  coin  of  the  States,  as  also  that  of 
Halifax  at  the  rate  of  five  shillings  to  the  dollar, 
are  both  current  here. 

13th.  Kingston  is  singularly  happy  in  its  site 
for  naval  purposes,  being  divided  into  three  parts, 
each  possessing  an  equal  facility  of  water  com- 
munication. The  navy-yard  occupies  the  middle 
station,  and  separates  the  fort  from  the  town. 
The  fort  is  built  of  stone,  and  has  two  towers 
which  overlook  the  lake.  It  is  chiefly  intended 
for  the  protection  of  the  navy-yard,  which  it  com- 
mands. There  are  also  palisaded  batteries, 
strengthened  with  block-houses  on  the  point  of 
the  town,  and  on  Point  Frederick  at  the  navy- 
yard.  There  have  lately  been  erected,  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity  of  Kingston,  on  the  shores,  a 
number  of  barracks,  capable  of  accommodating 
several  thousand  troops.  Besides  these  there  is 
a  large  wooden  Government-house,  with  all  the 


-4i- 


99 


appendages  lor  the  military  ;  and  a  considerable 
naval  establishment  kept  up  at  this  place. 

Our  steam-boat  party  (which  indeed  was  very 
considerable,  and  among  whom  were  two  Ame- 
rican officers)  determined  on  paying  a  visit  to  the 
navy-yard  and  barracks.  A  note  to  this  effect 
was  despatched  to  the  commanding  officer,  to 
know  if  the  regiment  would  parade,  and  at  what 
hour.  To  which  an  answer  arrived,  that  at  four 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  it  was  the  usual  custom ; 
when,  if  agreeable  to  our  party.  Colonel  J.  would 
be  pleased  to  see  them.  We  accordingly  repair- 
ed to  the  barracks  and  saw  the  exercise  performed, 
very  much  to  our  gratification  and  astonishment. 
There  exists  too  glaring  a  distinction  between  un- 
disciplined and  regular  troops  not  to  produce  an 
immediate  decision  in  favour  of  the  latter.  The 
gentlemanly  conduct  of  the  officers  induced  the 
party  (among  whom  were  some  ladies)  to  accept 
of  an  invitation  to  visit  the  apartments  of  the 
barracks.  We  were  exceedingly  indebted  to 
their  politeness,  as  well  as  to  that  of  their  ladies, 
to  whom  we  were  introduced,  who  seemed  to  take 
great  pleasure  in  contributing  to  our  informa- 
tion. On  returning  we  were  saluted  by  the  band 
with  several  patriotic  tunes,  among  which  were 
the  two  national  airs  of  our  respective  countries. 


■|H 


HI 


'     ii 


."'' 


m 


\  % 


.ytiJ'.Jt 


i**^,^? 


-t;ji#firu-Masi4if* 


,^m*'  y.^'-' 


''i 


100 

We  directed  our  attention  in  the  next  place  to 
the  navy-yard ;  which  is  situated  on  a  narrow 
tongue  of  land.  There  does  not  appear  to  be 
more  than  sufficient  room  for  the  construction  of 
a  single  ship  of  the  line  at  one  time,  together  with 
the  timber,  workshops,  and  stores.  The  skeleton 
of  a  first  rate  vessel  remains  still  bleaching  on 
the  stocks  as  the  war  left  it ;  although  the  origin 
was  premature,  there  appears  none  the  less  pros- 
pect of  a  timely  end :  it  may  at  least  be  said  to 
be  seasoned  to  wind  and  weather,  if  not  war- 
worn in  the  service. 

Very  soon  after  our  arrival  at  this  place,  our 
whole  party  determined  to  wait  for  the  steam- 
boat, which  was  to  sail  the  next  day  for  Prcs- 
cott.  Previously  to  this  measure,  various  at- 
tempts had  been  made  to  procure  passages  by 
chartering  a  small  vessel  for  Ogdensburgh,  but 
the  terms  could  not  be  settled.  Several  of  the 
Canadian  batteaux  bound  to  La  Chine  offered  to 
take  us,  but  these  also  were  declined.  The  ac- 
commodations, joined  to  the  haggard  looks  of  the 
boatmen,  appeared  so  uninviting  as  to  induce  a 
belief,  that  whatever  may  have  been  lost  in  the 
scenery  on  the  water,  was  probably  repaid  by  the 
health  and  pleasure  of  the  party.  These  boats 
carry  passengers,  subject  to  finding  themselves 


►•"^  s 


toi    . 

provisions ;  and,  if  the  weather  be  fine,  and  no 
particular  impedinnent  happen,  arrive  in  about 
two  days  and  a  night.  In  case  of  stopping  at 
night,  there  may  be  accomn\odations  procured  on 
shore  j  but  these  arc  often  of  a  very  indifferent 
kind.  This  route  cannot  possibly  be  recommended 
for  the  descent  of  the  river,  particularly  in  the 
autumn.  The  chills  immediately  succeeding  the 
scorching  heats  of  the  day,  few  constitutions  are 
sufficiently  robust  to  undergo  with  impunity.  In 
these  northern  waters,  the  varieties  of  climate 
produced  at  this  season  by  the  uncleared  districts 
in  their  vicinity  are  the  occasion  of  what  is  term- 
ed the  intermitting  or  lake  fever,  so  fatal  to 
strangers,  and  not  unfrequently  proving  a  serious 
disease  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  country. 

It  is  a  well  established  fact  from  observation, 
that  the  American  climate  is  found  to  vary  about 
ten  or  twelve  degrees  of  extreme  heat  and  cold, 
from  the  same  parallels  of  latitude  in  Europe. 
This  circumstance  is  most  perceptible  in  lati- 
tudes higher  than  thirty-six  degrees  north.  Par- 
ticular situations  also  are  subject  to  changes  of 
temperature,  more  or  less,  according  to  the  pre- 
valence of  the  south  or  south-west  winds.  The 
neighbourhood  of  Lake  St.  Clair  is  mentioned 
by  C.  F.  Volney  (Tableau  du  Climat,  torn.  i.  p. 

I  2 


Hi 


)! 


'f4l 


iiS 


Aw' 


I 


4      11 


i 


'^:M,^,- 


■'C'^^^ 


'h 


102 

166.)  as  an  instance  of  this  kind  ;  where  no  other 
fruits  except  winter  pears  and  apples  will  ripen. 
"  An  fort  Detroit  le  climat  ressemblc  encore  a 
celui  de  Niagara,  son  parallele ;  mais  des  le  lac 
Saint  Clair,  les  colons  trouvent  les  froids  beau- 
coup  plus  longs  et  plus  rigoureux  qu'a  Detroit. 
Les  vents  de  sud  et  de  sud-ouest,  qui  tempcrent 
I'Erie,  deviennent  plus  rares  ici,  et  Ton  ne  peut  y 
murir  d'autres  fruits  que  des  pommes  et  des 
poires  d'hiver."  He  is  of  opinion  that  these  cir- 
cumstances take  place  in  consequence  of  the 
above  named  winds  being  less  frequent  near  this 
lake ;  whereas  in  other  places  an  abundance  of 
summer  fruits  are  produced  at  the  same  parallel 
of  latitude.  There  is  generally  experienced  a 
proportionably  greater  degree  of  cold  on  the 
western  side  of  Lake  Erie,  than  at  the  corre- 
sponding latitude,  on  the  eastern  side.  The  ex- 
tremes of  heat  and  cold  too,  in  various  parts  of 
Canada,  are  found  to  be  sudden,  and  the  crops 
are  sometimes  cut  off  by  frost,  even  in  the 
months  of  July  and  August.  Probably  the  best 
reason  which  appears  for  these  differences  of 
temperature,  will  be  found  to  arise  from  a  cause, 
which  operates  upon  all  the  American  climate. 
The  north-west  wind  is  the  great  harbinger  of 
cold  ;  its  influence  is  derived  from  passing  over 


7i^£a^a^S3S3R!PtlS<!^-ii 


103 

the  immeasurable  extent  of  frozen,  uncultivated 
regions  of  forest,  north  and  west  of  the  lakes. 
This  wind  is  mollified  in  a  considerable  degree  in 
its  course  over  the  lakes  ;  so  that  the  places 
which  lie  in  a  south-east  direction  from  these 
inland  seas,  experience  a  milder  temperature  on 
this  account.  According  to  this  rule,  it  would 
seem  that  the  effect  produced  ought  to  be  co-ex- 
tensive with  this  range  ;  and  thus,  with  but  very 
few  exceptions,  it  is  found  to  be :  for  the  whole 
extent  of  country  which  lies  in  the  direction  be- 
tween, and  of  course  not  affected  by  either  of  the 
Lakes  Superior  or  Huron,  experiences  a  rigorous 
winter.  For  the  same  reason  York,  though  not 
much  more  than  half  a  degree  to  the  northward 
of  the  Niagara  frontier,  is  found  to  experience 
longer  and  severer  winters  ;  because  a  line  drawn 
north-west  from  York  would  pass  between  these 
two  lakes  :  and,  on  the  other  hand,  the  Genesee 
country,  occupying  a  situation  favoured  by  lake 
Erie,  enjoys  by  this  means  a  more  temperate  at- 
mosphere. The  same  peculiarity  cf  circum- 
stances takes  place  on  the  banks  of  the  Grand 
River,  where  the  Six  Nations  have  chosen  to  fix 
their  residence. 

It    may    be  further  observed   with  respect  to 
climate,  that  the  season  for  vegetation  continues 


I; 


■  ■  I 


I 


f 
1-  ■\\ 


M 


r 


*^... 


afii. 


( 

jE»'      Mi 


104 


longer,  by  two  months  frequently,  in  many  places 
in  Upper  Canada,  than  at  Quebec,  and  the  heat 
also  is  more  oppressive  ;  but  it  is  felt  throughout 
the  country  generally  in  a  ratio  proportioiiate  to 
the  severity  of  the  winter  preceding  ;  so  that  the 
Indian  corn,  melons,  and  all  kinds  of  vegetables, 
which  require  an  intense  heat  to  ripen  them,  fail 
not  to  arrive  at  perfection  by  a  more  speedy 
growth,  when  protracted  by  a  late  spring.  This 
circumstance  serves  to  beautify  the  northern 
summer ;  where  the  freshness  of  the  herb  and 
the  young  sprout  from  every  tree  are  to  be  seen, 
instead  of  the  comparative,  lingering  growth  which 
takes  place  in  more  southern  situations :  and  thus 
it  appears  how  Providence  has  contrived  means 
to  confer  on  the  different  varieties  of  climate,  a 
proportionable  distribution  of  favours. 


;  'I. 


>*=Ji»-i>.'^-W'"''r>*-: 


>mMiM,* 


CHAPTER  X. 

descent  of  the  St.  Lawrence— Thousand  Isles— Gananoque 
— Remarkable  Occurrence — BrockvlUe :  Group  of  Bye» 
standers — Termination  of  the  day's  sail. 


14M.  This  day  promised  a  delightful  sail 
among,  what  are  usually  called,  in  round  num- 
bers, the  Thousand  Isles  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 
We  had  repaired  on  board  last  evening,  and  to 
our  births.  The  steam-boat  got  under  way  at  3 
A.  M.  The  cotnpany  were  composed  of  our  tra- 
velling party,  or  nearly  so,  from  the  lake 

The  first  place  I  remember  to  have  seen  is 
Gananoque^  where  we  stopped  to  take  in  fuel ;  it 
is  distant  from  Kingston  about  eighteen  miles,  in 
the  township  of  Leeds,  and  contains  a  custom- 
house. The  river  Gananoque,  before  the  divi- 
sion of  the  province  of  Quebec,  was  called  the 
Thames.  It  is  intended  to  be  made  navigable  by 
means  of  locks  ;  as  high  however  as  the  first  ra- 
pids the  water  is  deep,  and  the  shore  bold :  the 
current  also  flows  slowly  in  a  channel  from 
twelve  to  fifteen  feet  deep,  into  an  excellent  har- 


il  i 


# 


-'ti 


(■.\  \ 


-..^.i 


■^; 


F  I 


106 


'li 


bour.  A  settlement  is  going  on  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  head  hikes  of  the  Rideau,  aad 
a  canal  has  been  cut,  to  avoid  the  falls,  under  the 
patronage  of  government.  The  settlers  are 
chiefly  disbanded  soldiers,  who  draw  their  pay 
from  the  quarter-master-general's  department,  for 
improving  the  lands.  A  line  of  communication 
between  Montreal  and  Kingston,  by  way  of  the 
Ottawa,  will  thus  be  secured.  Since  the  estab- 
lishment of  this  settlement  Gananoquc  has  risen 
considerably  in  importance. 

The  Islands  which  crowd  the  St.  Lawrence 
have  all  a  granite  basis,  and  the  beds  also  of  the 
Gananoque  and  Kingston  rivers  are  formed  of 
the  same  stone.  Immense  masses  occasionally 
project  from  the  banks,  on  one  of  which  projec- 
tions a  block-house,  forming  a  prominent  object, 
is  seen  from  a  great  distance.  These  banks  are 
composed  of  lime-stone  hollowed  out  by  the  wa- 
ter, and  are  generally  about  twenty  feet  in  height. 

There  is  something  exceedingly  impressive  in 
the  scenery  of  this  river.  A  savage  wildness 
prevails  along  its  shores,  except  here  and  there 
a  speck  of  cultivation,  where  the  settler's  hut  is 
seen,  or  a  little  village  breaks  in  upon  the  scene. 
Sometimes  you  meet  a  solitary  Indian,  gracefully 
standing    in    the  bow,  and    winding  his  canoe 


■-■-Af . 


A  Air^aJ^auijil     ^Itl, 


.-'     WiL^\^     k*J-^iCl.     ^  ^i- 


*ti.W«t"\»i.^- 


tor 

around  the  Islands,  or  engaged  in  fishing.  The 
black  cedars  which  line  the  shores,  or  crown  the 
rocky  Islands,  thickly  scattered  over  the  im- 
mense surface  of  the  river,  produce  a  savage  mo- 
notony. The  principal  interest  excited  by  this 
scenery,  arises  probably  in  tracing  the  course 
which  the  boat  is  about  to  make. 


"  The  Earth  was  made  so  Tarious,  that  the  mind 
Of  desultory  man,  studious  of  change, 
And  pleas'd  with  novelty,  might  be  indulged. 
Prospects,  however  lovely,  may  be  seen 
Till  half  their  beauties  fade  ;  the  weary  sight, 
Too  well  acquainted  with  tlieir  smile,  slides  off 
Fastidious,  seeking  less  familiar  scenes." 

The  Islands  appear  so  close  together,  that  fre- 
quently till  you  approach  quite  near,  no  opening 
can  be  perceived ;  when  suddenly  you  pass  close 
between,  or  skirt  round  by  a  short  tack,  into  an 
open  expanse.  It  cannot  be  imagined  that  the  lake 
or  river  is  so  wide  as  ten  miles  at,  and  for  some 
distance  below  Kingston,  according  to  report  j 
by  reason  of  the  impossibility  of  seeing,  at  any 
one  time,  more  than  one  third  of  that  distance,  on 
account  of  intervening  Islands.  One  of  the 
longest  of  these,  next  in  size  to  Grand,  is  called 
Wells'  Island,  which  commences,  at  the  distance 


) 


I 


:f 


I' 


^#"^•-^■^1 
.-t**?. 


n 


I' 


108 

of  seven  miles  below  Gananoque,  and  is  about 
fifteen  miles  in  length.  There  were  two  very  re- 
markable small  ones,  more  elevated  than  the 
rest,  and  quite  cleared,  among  those  lowest 
down.  Indeed  the  scenery  would  be  much  im- 
proved throughout  the  whole  distance  of  forty 
miles,  where  the  Islands  disappear,  if  farms 
were  more  frequent.  When  cultivation  takes 
place,  no  doubt  the  health  of  the  inhabitants  will 
also  be  much  improved. 

Before  I  dismiss  the  subject  of  the  Islands,  in- 
teresting for  so  constant  a  diversity  of  scenery, 
I  cannot  help  mentioning  one  circumstance  more  ; 
peculiarly  so,  for  the  excitement  which  it  raised 
in  our  feelings.  As  we  approached  a  rocky  emi- 
nence, about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  main 
shore,  a  deer  was  seen  lying  down.  The  beauteous 
creature  had  no  doubt  sought  this,  as  a  place  of 
security  ;  nothing  being  more  common  for  them 
than  taking  to  the  water,  when  closely  hunted. 
From  the  moment  I  perceived  the  animal,  I  took 
unconsciously  an  interest  in  its  safety,  and  wished 
of  all  things  its  escape,  but  it  seemed  as  if  the 
fates  had  selected  their  victim.  No  sooner  was  it 
relieved  from  one  persecution,  than  another  threa- 
tens ;  for  our  crew  had  formed  a  resolution  of  a 
different  kind  from  mine,  and  the  boat  was  pre- 


»4wyC,k^jg-...   i..-:-t^' ,'  k  v-Jr, 


ilii:*i^jR''.;,:"iju^ 


"•f^jiOilwr  i*p 


109 

pared  tor  the  pursuit.  The  tie  r  perceiv  i rig  their 
intention,  and  being  cut  ofl'  from  letrcnting  to- 
wards the  shore  by  the  position  of  the  steam-boat, 
leaped  into  the  water  on  the  opposite  side,  and 
swam  towards  the  middle  of  the  river.  I  began 
now  to  lose  all  hope,  as  it  was  evident  the  boat 
gained  speed,  and  would  soon  overtake  tlic  prize. 
My  anticipations  were  realized,  and  my  heart 
beat  in  unison  with  the  bellowings  of  the  poor 
fugitive  when  dragged  into  the  boat,  and  its  cap- 
ture announced  by  the  exulting  cry  of  the  boat- 
men. The  animal  was  now  soon  deposited  on 
deck,  with  the  two  fore-legs  secured,  and  the 
steam-boat  got  under  way  again.  The  beau- 
teous mien  and  delicate  limbs  of  the  trembling 
captive  attracted  the  admiration  of  our  company, 
rhey  were  all  agreed  that  the  stranger,  proving  a 
doe,  should  live  ;  but  while  some  through  com- 
passion, were  desirous  of  releasing  her  legs,  and 
attaching  the  rope  to  her  neck  for  the  sake  of 
deck-range,  the  more  judicious  were  for  tying 
also  the  hind  legs  ;  in  this  perplexity,  tl.ey  had 
forgotten  to  put  on  the  second  tie,  before  unloos- 
ing the  first.  Finding  herself  released,  she  de- 
tided  the  controversy,  and  at  the  same  time  her 
own  choice  of  the  mode  of  living,  by  a  leap  into 
the  stream.     Never  did  I  rejoice  more  than  at 

K 


I  t 


) 


i  ^ 


no 


<i  1 


this  sudden  escape.  The  prudent  decision  of  the 
captain  prevented  any  further  attempt,  and  the 
deer  was  permitted  to  regain  her  native  forest. 

For  a  considerable  distance  before  arriving  at 
Brockville,  you  lose  sight  of  the  Islands,  and  the 
shores  begin  to  present  a  more  pleasing  aspect. 
The  cleared  districts  and  farm-houses  point  out 
the  abode  of  the  industrious  settler,  and  the  ge- 
neral description  of  the  soil  is  less  rocky.  On  the 
American  side,  however,  there  is  less  appearance 
of  cultivation  than  on  the  British.  There  is 
every  thing  to  be  seen  which  indicates  the  rapid 
increase  of  population  over  a  portion  of  country, 
where  but  comparatively  few  years  have  elapsed, 
since  a  vast  and  dreary  wilderness  extended. 
From  such  reflections,  and  contemplation  of 
island  scenery  for  so  long  a  distance,  the  mind 
is  suddenly  relieved  by  the  appearance  of  a  little 
village,  which  presents  itself  on  the  American 
side.  It  is  called  Morristorvn^  and  situated  on 
the  slope  of  a  gently  rising  hill ;  opposite  to  which 
the  steam-boat  stopped  for  freight  and  a  fresh 
supply  of  pine  wood,  at  Brockville. 

During  these  preparatory  measures  a  party  set 
off  to  reconnoitre  the  place.  Judging  of  those 
who  stood  at  the  landing,  one  might  suppose  that 
no  quarter  of  the  habitable  globe  could  boast  of  a 


HI 


more  uncouth  and  motley  group,  than  (if  phy- 
siognomy can  be  at  all  relied  upon  as  a  criterion) 
was  here  presented.  Without  bearing  the  cha- 
racteristic stamp  of  any  nation,  in  particular, 
you  might  suppose  that  this  town  was  indebted 
to  every  one  on  earth  for  its  inhabitants.  A 
person  skilled  in  the  outlines  of  the  human  face, 
would  derive  much  entertainment  in  the  portraits 
of  these  renegadoes.  There  would  be  no  diffi- 
culty in  finding  the  likeness  of  a  pickpocket, 
Billingsgate  fishmonger,  or  hangman.  Any  di- 
mensions of  villany,  which  Newgate  ever  con- 
tained, would  find  a  match  here. 

By  this  time  it  appeared  that  the  custom-house 
had  some  trifling  matter  to  settle  with  our  cap- 
tain, and  thus  a  fresh  delay  ensued.  On  pro- 
ceeding up  towards  the  town,  we  inquired  civil- 
ly, concerning  what  countrymen  lived  here  gene- 
rally. "  Faith,"  said  a  rough  looking  lad,  from  the 
turf}  "  and  be  sure  IcaiCt  answer  that  question. — 
By  my  troth.,  but  tve^re  all  sorts^  but  our  oxvn  7ia- 
tion^  here!''''  This  reply  corresponded  with  our 
own  opinion.  Proceeding  a  little  further,  we  met 
another  "  Paddy  from  Corki^''  of  whom  we  asked, 
who  lived  there,  pointing  to  a  neat  two  story 
building ?  "  I  persave  you're  from  the  other  s'lde^'' 
said  Pat,  "  and  if  it's  your  countryman  you're  af- 


112 


I 


lif- 


ter seeking,  you'll  find  him,  yonder,  likely."  To 
which  I  said,  why?  what  is  there  going  on  ?  "A 
civil  court-house,  plaze  your  honour,  where  tatter- 
denxallions  are  tried."  Aye,  said  I,  and  you'd 
liave  us  go  there,  would  you  ?  "  To  be  sure  and 
I  wuuld ;  for  never  an  alien  lives  here,  without 
naturalization.''''  Another  answer  from  a  black 
man,  that  "  they  were  all  rogues  and  ragamuf- 
fins," quite  satisfied  us,  and  we  returned  to  the 
steam-boai.  From  this  account,  I  do  not  pre- 
tend to  estimate  the  character  of  the  inhabitants, 
generally  ;  it  shows  only  how  opinions  may  be 
formed,  from  the  company  that  we  may  chance 
to  meet. 

The  town  of  Brockville  is  pleasantly  situated, 
and  contains  some  Vv^ell  built  houses.  Having 
finished  our  exursion  we  returned  on  board,  and, 
the  steam-boat  business  being  adjusted,  we  set 
sail  again.  Soon  after  this  the  river  appears  to 
widen  a  little,  and  the  banks,  which  before  were 
even  and  high,  are  not  so  beautiful.  There  is 
however  something  exceedingly  impressive  and 
charming  to  the  mind,  pleased  with  novelty^ 
throughout  a  passage  among  the  Isles.  After 
a  pleasant  afternoon's  sail  of  twelve  miles  far- 
ther, we  came  in  sight  of  Prescott.  This  town  is 
opposite   to    Ogdensburgh,   and   terminates    the 


113 


steam-boat  passage.  Finding  no  opportunity  for 
immediate  departure,  we  crossed  over  in  a  sail 
boat,  with  the  view  of  spending  the  evening, 
and  found  comfortable  accommodations.  An 
opportunity  was  there  presented  of  noting  some 
peculiar  traits  of  character,  which  bear  a  national 
contrast ;  but  they  will  more  properly  form  the 
subject  of  future  descriptions. 


-Ai 


K  2 


i.y-.. 


V  -i.'?-       «•*,['■' 


r*i 


il 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Ogde>i8burgh  :  Local  Advantages  and  Improvements — Pres- 
cott:  Incidents — Upper  Canada  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
— Remarks  on  the  Country  and  Habits — Lake  St  Francis 
— Entrance  into  Lower  Canada  —  Rapids  —  Villages  — 
Steam-boat  Circle — Approach  towards  Montreal. 

15th.  Ogdensburgh  is  situated  on  the  east  side 
of  the  Osvvegatchie  river,  at  its  confluence  with 
the  St.  Lawrence.  It  is  a  thriving  village,  has  a 
safe  and  spacious  harbour,  and  in  consequence  of 
the  commencement  of  the  rapids  three  miles  be- 
low, has  become  a  considerable  place  of  trade, 
for  merchandize  transported  in  boats  from  Low- 
er Canada.  The  countv  court  is  held  at  this 
place,  which  contains  about  six  hundred  inhabi- 
tants. There  were  formerly  erected  here  some 
wooden  barracks  and  a  military  forfification,  con- 
sisting of  two  stone  buildings,  ceded  to  the 
United  States  by  the  British  Government  in  17'96, 

The  country  about  here  exhibits  one  of  those 
striking  instances  of  the  rapid  improvements,  so 
frequently  witnessed  in  the  new  settlements 
throughout  the  States.     It  is  remarkably  fertile 


\ 


iM 


h 
f) 

i! 


./,. 


IIG 


in  many  places,  and  bears  the  marks  of  suc- 
cessful culth  ation.  The  wild  gloom  of  the  de- 
sert and  the  log-house  have  already  given  place 
to  thriving  plantations,  and  the  embellishments 
which  usually  succeed  a  numerous  population. 

We  were  unsuccessful  here,  as  at  Kingston,  in 
procuring  a  passage  for  La  Chine  by  the  batteaux. 
In  addition  to  the  inconveniencies  there  expe- 
rienced, there  were  now  contrary  winds  to  con- 
tend with,  and  the  boatmen  cannot  be  prevailed 
upon  at  such  times  to  depart.  There  is  a  possi- 
bility of  being  in  luck  sometimes,  and  finding  the 
best  opportunities  from  hence.  Passage  boats 
frequently  leave  Ogdensburgh,  and  descend  as 
far  as  La  Chine  in  less  than  two  days.  There  is 
no  kind  of  danger,  as  they  are  furnished  with 
good  pilots  ;  and  every  necessary  accommoda- 
tion may  be  procured  for  the  comfort  of  such 
persons  who  prefer  a  passage  by  water. 

There  is  no  possibility  of  procuring  convey- 
ances towards  Montreal  on  this  side  of  the  river ; 
in  consequence  of  which  we  lost  some  of  our 
company  here,  who  set  off  for  Utica  in  the  stage, 
rather  than  wait  for  the  regular  line  of  stages  on 
the  other  side.  The  remainder  of  the  party,  how- 
ever, which  consisted  of  the  largest  number,  re- 
crossed  the  river,  which  is  about  two  mile5  \v)Je 


117 


here,  and  arrived  at  Prescott ;  where  we  had  the 
pleasure  of  meeting  again  with  our  travelling  cir- 
cle, consisting  of  the  families  of  the  reverend  doc- 
tor (before  named)  and  of  Mr.  C.  of  Carolina. 
They  had  been  much  more  successful  than  our- 
selves, and  by  anticipating  the  regular  stage,  made 
up  the  load  of  an  extra,  and  thus  deprived  us  of 
the  co.npany  of  our  female  companions.  Deter- 
mined however  to  sustain  this  double  misfortune 
in  the  best  manner  possible,  we  engaged  the  places 
for  to-morrow,  and  in  the  interim  sought  amends 
by  making  observations  on  the  town  and  vicinity 
of  Prescott. 

This  town  is  situated  on  a  bank  rather  more 
elevated  than  Ogdensburgh,  its  rival  in  business 
and  population.  The  growth  has  been  rapid, 
and  its  prospects  continue  to  be  promising,  at 
least  judging  from  the  stores  on  the  wharves, 
and  the  merchandize  landing  and  re-shipping. 
The  pleasantest  situation,  and  probably  the  best 
accommodations,  are  to  be  had  at  the  steam-boat 
Hotel,  near  the  river.  There  are  two  neat,  small 
frame  churches.  Episcopal  and  Presbyterian,  fac- 
ing one  another,  in  the  upper  part  of  the  town. 
Prescott  is  remarkable  also  for  a  square  redoubt 
">x  fort,  called  Fort  Wellington. 

\^th.     At  the  hour  of  sunrise,  the  stage  start- 


* 


if  \ 

J:' 


,- 


i 


i 


/^i 


'■>■..-,;*?; 


118 


it" 


1;  i  ( 


tA 


ed.  To  our  party  now,  were  added  four  South- 
erners, a  new  Englander,  and  a  Canadian  ;  all 
of  whom  had  come  from  the  steam-boat. 

Williamsburg h^  where  we  breakfasted,  is  com- 
posed of  a  few  indifferent  wooden  buildings. 
Our  hostess  provided  a  comfortable  meal,  and 
rendered  every  civility  to  the  party  ;  but  the 
harmony  which  had  subsisted  between  us  had 
almost  been  interrupted  by  a  mistake  in  her  cal- 
culation ;  for  she  insisted  that  one  more  had  sat 
down  than  she  had  received  pay  for.  After  a 
deten<^'on  of  some  minutes,  the  mistake  was  rec- 
tified, and  the  driver  cracking  his  whip,  the  stage 
again  proceeded.  We  noticed  nothing  more,  at 
this  place,  than  a  peculiar  kind  of  dialect ; 
which  would  pass  neither  for  Scotch,  English, 
Irish  nor  Dutch,  but  which  yet  seemed  made  up 
of  them  all. 

Near  this  place,  we  passed  a  few  scattered 
families  of  Indians,  dwelling  near  the  road,  in 
huts  constructed  of  pine  boards.  There  appear- 
ed amongst  them  a  neglect  of  comfort  and  a  de- 
gree of  indolence,  which  proves  the  little  pro- 
gress that  has  been  produced  from  being  closed 
within  the  pale  of  civilization.  Like  their  bre- 
thren,  deprived  of  the  resources  of  the  chase, 


f^." 


*L   i-X       \i^  Hi  ^    X 


119 


they  are   fast  wasting  under  the  cftects  of  spi- 
rituous liquors. 

The  country  which  we  passed  appeared  well 
cultivated,  and  there  was  a  degree  of  cheerful- 
ness which  indicated  an  attachment  to  primitive 
habits ;  in  fact  there  seems  to  be  something  in 
the  character  of  the  people  which  produces  this 
predilection  for  whatever  is  established.  On 
this  principle  it  may  be  accounted  for,  why  the 
lands  in  Canada  are  not  so  generally  settled,  as 
in  the  States,  where  quite  a  contrary  disposition, 
in  favour  of  emigration,  takes  place.  The  Cana- 
dian will  submit  to  considerable  inconveniences, 
before  he  can  be  induced  to  quit  the  land  of  his 
forefathers.  Most  of  the  improvements  are  to 
be  seen,  along  this  part  of  the  country,  bordering 
within  a  few  miles  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 

There  is  not  much  of  the  picturesque  visible 
in  passing  through  this  country,  which  is  inva- 
riably flat.  The  main  road  however  pursues  the 
course  of  the  river,  v/hich  is  here  very  rapid, 
and  frequently  obstructed  by  shoals  and  islands. 
The  eye  with  pleasure  regards  its  current  impe- 
tuously dashing  and  foaming  over  a  thousand 
rocks.  In  the  channel  the  stream  appears  evi- 
dently lowest,  forming  an  Incurvation  when 
viewed  at  the  same  time  with   the  two  shores  ; 


r 


r  t  ■'!■> 


%^i 


m] 


!\  A 


immiU'''^..jC. 


120 


the  eflect  on  this  account  is  rendered  more  inte- 
resting and  pleasing.     At  the  Long  Saut^  one  of 
the    principal  rapids,  arc   erected  a  number  of 
grist  and  saw-mills  ;  whose  piers  or  dams,  pro- 
jecting from  the  beach,  form  an  agreeable   range 
along  the  Canadian  shore.     Notwithstanding  the 
superior  advantages  of  water,   there  are  still  to 
be  seen  wind-mills  in  operation,  as  well   as   the 
remains  of  old  ones,  along  the  shores.     Nothing 
very  remarkable   has  yet  been  discovered  Vvith 
respect  to  the   construction  of  farm-houses  ;   ex- 
cepting that  they  are  rather  lower  than   those  in 
the  States,  they  are  fir-boarded  in  the  same  man- 
ner.    There  is  a  small  village  and  mill  at  M'tllc- 
roches^  which  place  derives  its  nunt  from  the  ad- 
jacent rapids.     A  few  miles  furtlur  we  arrived  at 
CornwalU   a  town   pleasantly   situated,  and  last 
increasing. 

Having  alighted  from  the  stage  at  this  place, 
we  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  again  our  friends 
who  had  left  us  yesterday.  They  had  been  un- 
der the  necessity  of  waiting  here  for  the  mail, 
which  arrived  with  us,  and  of  which  the  team- 
boat  was  the  regular  conveyance.  We  imme- 
diately embarked,  and  set  sail.  This  boat,  estab- 
lished one  year  ago  for  the  navigation  of  Lake 
St.  Francis^  has  good  accommodations  for  pas- 
sengers.    The  deck-range  is  capacious,  and  the 


Wl  ■'' 


^f*«i-t^«-.  ..iiiJliw^Hi.,^ 


lUl 


births  well  fitted  up.  The  party  sat  down  to 
dinner,  at  an  early  hour,  and  the  afternoon  being 
exceedingly  pleasant,  there  was  every  prospect 
of  experiencing  an  agreeable  passage.  The  lake 
is  twenty-five  miles  long,  and  its  greatest  breadth 
fifteen.  At  the  northern  extremity  is  situated 
the  village  of  St.  Regis,  where  the  Oswegatchies 
have  a  settlement,  and  where  the  boundary  line 
between  the  United  States  and  the  Canadas 
strikes  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  borders  of  the 
lake  are  very  low,  and  consequently  uninterest- 
ing ;  but  the  range  of  mountains  to  the  south 
and  the  intermediate  country  present  a  pleasing 
relief  in  the  perspective.  We  stopped  at  Lancas- 
:cr  in  sight  of  the  lake,  at  the  distance  of  about 
half  a  mile,  in  order  to  change  the  mail-bag ;  in 
so  doing  there  Was  time  enough  for  a  walk. 
Yo\i  are  amply  repaid  by  the  exercise,  and  are 
'^ratified  with  seeing  a  few  frame  buildings,  com- 
posing the  hamlet  of  Scotch  emigrants.  Soon 
after  leaving  this  place  the  sun  had  just  finished 
his  regular  course,  and  warned  us  of  the  close 
of  another  day.  The  bright  vermilion  of  his 
departing  rays  shed  a  lustre  over  the  western 
horizon,  enchanting  to  the  view,  and  shrouded 
imperceptibly  the  night  within  a  purple  screen. 
At   Cotcau  dii  Lac  you  discover  a  change   of 

L 


■^i 


t-1 


m    1 


V 


-:■., ;.  ,  Jf>    '^•.■•r-;ikij,i  ',■  AiJ>  ;  I..'^l^^ 


-  'j'^^iJS 


.    122 


I'.i 


'i; 


people,  and  being  the  first  it  may  be  excused, 
but  the  accommodations  at  the  inn  arc  not 
much  to  be  recommended.  It  is  not  to  be  sup- 
posed that  travellers  are  so  easily  reconciled 
with  the  courtesy  of  French  manners  alone,  as 
a  substitute  for  indifferent  fare  and  bad  bedding. 
Though  not,  "  tout  ^  fait  K  la  Parisienne,"  it  is 
matter  however  of  great  consideration  to  be 
civilly  treated.  Situations  of  this  kind  are  oc- 
casionally to  be  met  with,  and  generally,  where 
there  is  no  choice  for  the  better.  After  this  pre- 
mise, it  is  hardly  worth  while  to  make  out  a 
bill  of  fare ;  it  may  he  summed  up  in  the  word 
sparing-^  and  so  I  shall  spare  myself  the  trouble 
to  repeat  it.  We  went  to  bed  late  and  rose 
early,  heartily  tired  of  our  company,  and  deter- 
mining at  all  events  to  try  to  take  some  rest  in 
the  stage. 

17th.  From  the  time  of  first  entering  into 
Lower  Canada,  there  is  a  perceptible  difference 
in  manners,  customs,  and  dress,  from  that  of 
Upper.  The  traveller  is  transported  into  a  new 
region,  where  there  is  an  immediate  change  in 
the  face  of  the  country,  style  of  building,  and 
mode  of  living  as  well  as  language.  One  uni- 
versal character  is  stamped  throughout  the  whole 
province.     The  Canadian  houses,    seem    almost 


^  f'-i 


123 

equidistant,  and   consist  of  one  story  only,  ele- 
vated high  aliovi     he  ground,    to   which   a  log 
l)arn  and  stable  arc  commonly   attached,  with  a 
neat  plot  of  ground.     On  either   shore,  extends 
a   strip   of  land    seldom    exceeding   a   mile    in 
breadth,  parallel  to  the  river,  and  bounded  by  the 
primeval  forest.     The  enclosures  which  appear 
within  this  range,  in  long  rectangular  fields,  are 
marked  with  extreme  care  and  neatness  ;  and  not 
the  single  stump,  or  a  tree  remains.     The  road 
extends  through  the  cultivated   line,  with  here 
and  there  a  peaked  farm-house,  low,  and  white- 
washed from  top  to  bottom ;  till  a  more  thick- 
set   cluster   than  the   rest,   becomes   a  village 
often  honoured  by  the  name  of  some   tutelary 
3aint.     The   humble   minded   Canadian  peasant 
bows  with  reverence  to  the  crucifix.     Unambi- 
tious and  submissive,  he  lays  the  burden  of  his 
cares,  temporal  as  well  as  spiritual,  upon  the  priest's 
shoulder  ;  he  sows  the  field  which  was  his  ances- 
tors', and  trusts,  through  the  intercession  of  his 
saint,  that  the  "  bon  Dieu"  will  do  the  rest.     Dis- 
appointed of  his  hopes,  and  sometimes  almost  of 
sustenance  in  this  life,  he  fails   not  to  confess 
himself;  and  maintains  the  belief,  that  however 
he  may  be  deserted  now,  the  said  saint  will  not 
withhold  assistance  from  him  in  the  next  world. 


P 


\  W 


1- 


.r^. 


»)-;i.-.-«,'.,,V.:. 


if 


124 

The  Cedres  is  a  village  of  some  considerable 
size  and  appearance,  but  the  streets  are  narrow. 
Its  venerable  Cathedral,  with  glittering  spire 
and  belfry,  give  it  the  cast  of  antiquity. 

The  rapids  of  the  Cedres  terminate  three 
miles  from  the  Cascades,  which  after  a  course 
of  about  two  miles,  poui*  their  foaming  waters 
into  Lake  St.  Louis.  I  think  from  the  view  which 
we  had  of  several  Canadian  batteaux  descending 
these  rapids,  the  effect  is  really  admirable ;  and 
to  my  fancjj^  preferable,  to  the  pleasure  which 
might  be  derived  from  being  on  board.  The 
green  billows,  crested  with  foam  and  dashed 
from  the  rocky  bottom,  to  right  and  left,  toss  at 
their  mercy,  and  urge  on  the  boats  with  the  ra- 
pidity of  wind.  The  discordant  voices  of  the 
boatmen  rising  or  falling  in  harsh  cadence,  some- 
times  strike  your  ear,  in  exultation  ;  as  they  pass 
by  the  comparatively  slow-moving  stage,  or  hail 
some  distant,  solitary  canoe.  There  is  nothing 
more  interesting  in  its  effect  on  the  mind,  and 
yet  little  to  describe  in  this  scenery,  except  ai. 
imceasing  grandeur. 

Chataugaij  is  a  populous  village,  or  as  gene 
rally  termed  in  Lower  Canada,  a  seigniory,  con- 
taining the  Chapel  and  principal  inn.     It  is  situ- 
ated at  the  embouchure  of  the  river  of  the  samt; 


«: 


■-.:t^Bmm. 


125 


name,  over  which  is  sprung  the  single  arch  of  a 
neat  stone  bridge.  There  is  an  indication  of 
buisness,  and  some  small  craft  are  seen  floating 
in  the  little  harbour. 

At  Grand  Portage  or  Grand  jRiver,  where  it 
unites  with  the  St.  Lawrence,  there  are  consider- 
able improvements  in  the  lock  navigation.  We 
here  took  the  steam-boat  for  La  Chine.  The 
Clergyman  and  his  family,  and  a  number  of 
Southerners  with  whom  we  had  become  acquaint- 
ed at  Niagara,  had  travelled  with  our  party  al- 
most ever  since,  and  by  this  time  had  rendered 
the  steam-boat  circle  of  acquaintance  very  nu- 
merous and  agreeable.  A  fair  exchange  of  in- 
formation is  one  of  the  greatest  delights  in  tra- 
velling ;  you  are  sure  in  this  way,  to  be  less  im- 
posed upon  by  strangers,  and  to  obtain  a  know- 
ledge gratis^  of  what  is  most  useful.  The  loan 
of  books  may  often  be  obtained,  and  plans  of 
routes  arranged.  In  this  manner  we  continued 
to  La  Chine,  without  much  more  occurring, 
than  what  has  been  before  related,  on  similar 
occasions. 

From  La  Chine  to  Montreal  is  seven  miles. 
We  made  this  drive,  in  a  four-horse  stage,  which 
was  so  crouded  that  I  chose  the  box  seat.  Con- 
siderable improvements  are  goii.^'i-  on,  particular- 

L  3 


»'.   h 


126 


Hr 


m-i  ■     Si     r 


I 


( 


■^ 


ly  the  canal,  intended  to  convey  all  the  produce 
down  to  Montreal,  instead  of  stopping  at  La 
Chine.  Quite  tired  of  resting  upon  dreary  for- 
ests and  watery  wilds,  the  eye  becomes  pleasantly 
relieved,  by  the  prospect  of  the  fair  seigniory  of 
Montreal,  now  opening  to  view.  The  road 
winds  along  through  an  uneven  country,  spec- 
kled with  villas.  Rich  lands  on  either  side, 
bounded  to  the  north  by  wooded  heights,  and  to 
the  south  by  the  extended  blue  expanse  of  the 
river,  here  and  there  interspersed  with  specks 
of  islands,  or  ruffled  by  hidden  rocks  and  the 
foaming  rapids.  On  one  side  are  seen  mea- 
dows, extending  to  the  margin  of  the  river, 
whose  shore  is  lined  with  little  villages, 
while  in  front  the  solitary  mountain,  raises  its 
dark  heads,  covered  with  trees.  Lightly  pac- 
ing their  way,  are  seen  along  the  road,  groups 
of  Indians,  whose  physiognomy  forms  a  strik- 
ing contrast,  with  the  easy  expressions  and  plea- 
santry of  the  French ;  as  the  squaw  receives  a 
pinch  of  rapee,  or  the  passing  salutation  is  of- 
fered. The  facetious  smile  or  graceful  cour- 
tesy is  readily  bestowed  on  the  good-humour- 
ed traveller;  as  he  excites  attention  from  the 
village  cot.  After  descending  the  declivity  of  a 
ridge   about  two    miles    from    Montreal,    you 


'  .^.ui^i- 


;.'v-*iti.vA^'iv*.i'u.s- 


127 

pass  through  the  Tannerie^  a  village  celebrated 
for  that  species  of  trade.  It  is  composed  of 
wooden  houses,  all  of  one  pattern  and  height, 
being  less  than  two  stories.  On  leaving  this 
place  the  tin  roofs  and  shining  spires  of  the 
city  of  Montreal  impose  their  dazzling  glare 
upon  the  beholder's  eye  ;  till  the  attention  is  fix- 
ed upon  the  stirring  scene  within  its  confines. 


V  : 


m 


»,^)...: 


■.jt</.\-   .0^       St,  ^ 


■i    'f.- 


'  ^■^■%iii3 


■t^idt.' 


/X;'   ^''i,' 


,1 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Impressions  on  entering :    Montreal — Religion  :    Customs ; 
Education  :  Government :  and  Military  Force  in  Canada. 

To  a  traveller  who  has  never  visited  Europe, 
the  gay  concourse  of  people  and  general  style  of 
buildings  in  the  principal  streets  of  Montreal, 
might  serve  to  give  a  tolerable  idea  of  a  French 
town.  The  Hotel  Dieu,  Prison,  Chapels,  Con- 
vent walls,  narrow  side-walks,  and  market  for  ve- 
getables, resemble  those  of  Paris.  la  the  con- 
struction of  doors  and  windows  also,  the  incon- 
gruities of  ill  taste  are  copied,  without  the  style 
or  ornament  which  is  there  perceivable  in  the 
higher  order  of  buildings. 

Montreal  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  an 
island  ten  leagues  in  length  and  four  in  breadth, 
containing  a  mountain  of  the  same  name,  and  is 
divided  into  the  upper  and  lower  towns.  The 
computation  of  its  inhabitants,  including  the 
suburbs,  is  about  twenty-five  thousand.  It  is 
half  a  mile  in  breadth,  and  its  length  extends 
along  the  St.  Lawrence  two  miles.     The  buil4- 


\ 

0^ 


^ 


4 


■m 


\r  ■S-rfl 


I  * 


130 


\ 


•SI 


I    X- 


I } 


ings  are  constructed  of  stone    (with  the  excep- 
tion of  very  few  brick),  or  framed  logs.     The 
stone  wall  which   formerly   surrounded  this  city 
has  been  removed  by  order  of  gevernment.     The 
river  St.  Lawrence  is  about  three  miles  wide  at 
the  city.     The  upper  town  contains   the  English 
Church,  the  Recollet  Convent,  and  that  of  the 
sisters  of  Notre  Dame,  College,  and   Cathedral. 
The  General  Hospital  or  Convent  of  Grey  Sisters 
is  situated  at  a  small  distance  from  the  town,  on 
the   banks  of   the    St.   Lawrence.     The   public 
green  is  ornamented  with  rows  of  poplar  trees, 
forming  a  pleasant  retreat  for  the  citizens  during' 
the  heat  of  summer.     A  range  of  public  build- 
ings consisting  of  the  gaol,  court-house,  &c.  oc- 
cupies the   most  elevated  ground    of    the  city, 
from  whence  a  fine  view   may  be  had  of  the 
environs.     In    front    of   these   is   situated    the 
Charles-street  market-place,  at  the  head  of  which 
has  been  erected  by  the  British  government  to  the 
memory  of  Lord  NeLon,  a  pillar  crowned  with 
his  statue,  on  a  large  basement,  with  emblematic 
figures  and     inscriptions.     The    Chathedral    of 
Notre  Dame  at  the  Place   d'Armes,  is  a  gothic 
pile  bearing  marks  of  antiquity  ;  its  mouldings  are 
heavy,  and  I  saw  nothing  either  in  the  internal  ov 
jjxternal  appearance   which  gratified   the   taste 


.'.  ^V;i  j1':.^^  iiiV'^^ 


131 


e  excep- 
vs.     The 
this  city 
nt.     The 
wide  at 
:  English 
It   of  the 
'athedral. 
ey  Sisters 
town,  on 
be   public 
)lar  trees, 
ins  during: 
jlic  buikl- 
e,  &c.  oc- 
the  city, 
d  of  the 
ated    the 
of  which 
ent  to  the 
ned  with 
blematic 
edral    of 
s  a  gothic 
Idings  are 
Internal  o\ 
;he    taste 


The  city  of  Montreal  possesses  many  commer- 
cial advantages,  with  respect  to  the  trade  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  and  Ottawa ;  of  which  the  vessels 
at  the  wharves  and  store-houses  along  the  high 
banks  are  a  sufficient  indication.  Among  the 
inhabitants  both  the  French  and  English  lan- 
guages are  used  with  equal  facility. 

Several   beautiful    views    may   be  had  in  the 
vicinity  of  Montreal,  according  to  the  taste  of 
the  traveller.     From  St.  Helena,  an  island  a  lit- 
tle below  the  city,  affording  a  secluded  retirement, 
under  cover  of  the  wide-spreading  beech,  you 
behold   its   steeples   spiring  above    the    brilliant 
roofs.     The  distant  shore,  on  the  eastern  side  of 
the  river,  with  its   dark  line    of  forest ;  broken 
by  the  settlement  of  St.  Lambert,  Longuiel,  and 
La  Prairie  de  la  Madalene,  protrudes  new  beau- 
ties on    the  lingering  vision  :    while  the   inter- 
mediate perspective  is  variegated  by  rapids,  dash- 
ing over  the  rocks,  and  sweeping  their  course 
round  a  variety  of  islands;  and  in  the  back  ground 
is  seen  the  mountain.     Those  who  are  not  averse 
to  a  walk,  or  riJe  of  two  and  a  half  miles,  will 
be  gratified,  by  ascending  the   mountain.  .  The 
same  views  may  be  had  there,  at  an   elevation  of 
seven  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river. 
On  its  declivity  are  erected  several  beautiful  white 


/'  )l 


"St^^M.^ 


1  f  ^ 


132 


\u 


mansions,  the  property  of  private  gentlenten. 
From  this  situation  is  to  be  seen  the  best  view 
of  the  windings  of  the  several  mouths  of  the 
Ottawa,  particularly  La  Riviere  des  Prairies  and 
La  Riviere  de  St.  Jean.  The  Bcloeil  mountains 
present  themselves  in  one  direction  to  the  view, 
and  the  mountains  of  Vermont  and  New-York 
in  another. 

Sunday^  18th.  At  the  usual  hour  we  repaired 
to  the  English  Church,  in  order  to  attend  divine 
worship  according  to  the  English  form.  Ser- 
vice was  conducted  and  a  sermon  delivered  by  Mr. 
B.  the  presiding  Rector  of  the  Parish.  The  princi- 
pal differences  between  the  order  of  worship  here, 
and  in  the  United  States,  consist  in  the  addi- 
tional chanting  of  the  "  Gloria  Partti,''^  and  "  Te 
Deum  j"  in  a  continuation  of  the  whole  Litany, 
as  far  as  the  prayer,  "  We  humbly  beseech  thee  ;" 
and  at  the  end  of  the  communion  service,  in  a 
repetition  of  the  Nicene  creed.  With  respect  to 
decorum,  on  entering  your  place,  before  service, 
and  also  on  quitting  it,  there  is  particular  atten- 
tion paid,  as  well  as  during  the  whole  of  the  per- 
formance. As  to  the  arrangements,  in  the  in- 
terior of  this  church,  it  will  be  needless  to  sav 
more,  than  that  the  pews  and  aisles  were  con- 
structed upon  a  capacious   plan,  the    pulpit  of 


■itt:. 


I--*i*^llL,., 


ntleinen. 
est  view 
i  of  the 
iries  and 
lountalns 
the  view, 
:ew-York 

repaired 
nd  divine 
:m.     Ser- 
edbyMr. 
he  prlncl- 
shlp  here, 
the  addi- 
and  "  Te 
le  Litany, 
ch  thee ;" 
/ice,  in  u 
espect  to 
service, 
liar  atteiv 
the  per- 
the   in- 
|ss  to  say 
ere   con- 
pulpit  of 


133 

•njeat  mahogany  work  ;  and  with  respect  to  the 
organ  loft  and  gallery,  no  other  ornament  appear- 
ed than  what  was  Recessaiy. 

In  the  afternoon  we  attended  service  again, 
with  little  other  variation,  than  that  Mr.  S., 
Evening  Lecturer  to  Saint  Paul's  and  Chaplain  to 
the  —  Regiment,  officiated.  His  discourse  was 
from  the  four  first  verses  of  the  15th  ch.  of 
1  Cor.  concerning  the  fundamental  truths  of  the 
Gospel ;  in  which  he  introduced  the  summary 
of  his  own  discourses  for  a  year  previous,  in  an 
energetic  and  eloquent  manner.  He  addressed 
the  people  extempore,  and  enforced  many  leading 
doctrines  of  our  church,  with  wonderful  energy 
and  effect.  The  plan  cannot  but  be  admired, 
as  useful  and  Instructive,  occasionally  to  bring 
before  the  view  of  the  congregation,  a  recapitu- 
lation of  this  nature. 

19th,  In  Roman  Catholic  countries  few  build- 
ings are  to  be  met  with,  either  for  ornament  or 
utility,  which  are  not  in  some  way  or  other  con- 
nected with  religion,  and  very  frequently  with 
charity.  This  happens  generally  by  reason  of 
the  original  endowments  which  have  been  bestow- 
ed. The  Roman  Catholic  Church  is  supported 
in  Canada  by  a  tax  of  eight  per  cent,  upon  all 
venl  estates,  as  often  as  they  may  be  sold  within 

M 


■  ■  (  !!  *'. 


i 


y^twyifpr^" 


'.)(f 


134 

the  territory,  and  by  perquisites.  By  this  meafiH 
sbc  is  enabled  to  contribute  to  the  support  of  a 
variety  of  institutions ;  of  which  kind  may  be  reck- 
oned their  charity  schools,  hospitals,  and  convents 
The  "  Hotel  Dieu'\  or  Hospital  for  "  Poor  Sick 
and  Mendicants,"  is  an  institution,  which  reflects 
honour  upon  the  nation,  and  is  a  token  of  the  cha- 
ritable design  of  its  founder.  It  was  instituted 
in  1644,  under  the  direction  of  a  superior  and 
thirty  nuns.  The  building  stands  in  a  central 
part  of  the  city,  is  of  a  plain  style  suitable  for 
the  purpose  intended,  and  at  the  same  time  indi- 
cating economy  of  design.  It  is  with  great  sa- 
tisfaction, you  behold  the  neatness  of  arrange- 
ment, and  general  appearance  of  the  apartments. 
This  is  heightened  by  the  politeness  which  is 
manifested  by  the  superior,  who  usually  conducts 
the  visitors  through  every  part  of  the  building. 
There  is  a  degree  of  easy  elegance  and  meekness 
of  manner,  not  so  attainable  by  all  the  efforts  of 
gayety  or  fashion,  though  often  sought  after ;  as 
within  the  seclusion  of  a  convent.  This  circum- 
stance is  not  to  be  wondered  at,  when  the  variety 
of  modes  in  which  the  human  mind  is  assailable, 
from  pride,  uvaiice,  or  passion,  in  the  public 
walks  of  life,  are  iaken  into  view.  Not  that  any 
enchantment  or  particular  eflficacv  is  to  be  derived 


.  i.Ljiii'j':^..«:-«\2jsi'''»iiiAil  •.,. 


135 

from  tlic  retirement  or  devotion  of  a  cloisterY- 
such  an  idea  is  untenable  ;  but  still  it  may  be  said 
that  the  daily  occupations  of  benevolence  in 
which  these  veiled  sisters  are  engaged,  would 
naturally  have  a  tendency  to  soften  the  heart  into 
pity,  to  prevent  peevishness  of  thought,  and  by 
eradicating  the  seeds  of  apathy,  to  transfuse  into 
the  human  breast  a  portion  of  tranquillity  far 
greater  than  is  attainable  in  the  ordinary  callings 
of  life. 

But  though  there  are  those  employments  to 
be  found,  which  require  that  charity  should  be 
administered  by  the  hand  of  pity,  and  that  there 
is  in  these  institutions  every  thing  which  may  be 
considered  as  leading  thereto  ;  still,  it  may  be 
made  a  questionable  point,  whether  their  general 
tendency  has  not  produced  a  different  effect :  I 
allude  to  the  nunnery  walls  which  have  incarcerat- 
ed many  a  lovely  female.  The  Revolution  of 
France  has,  at  least,  produced  for  the  benefit  ot" 
humanity  a  lasting  memento,  I  trust,  in  the  abgli- 
tion  of  the  monastic  orders  throughout  various 
parts  of  Europe.  It  has  prevented  the  immola- 
tion of  Heaven's  fairest  gifts,  by  opening  a  new 
existence,  as  it  were,  unto  the  veiled  victim,  en- 
dowed with  mental  charms  capable  of  gladden* 
Jng  this  checkered  life. 


;l»i 


X 


^i,£m,. 


\ 


>H- 


136 

'•  The  beauteous  maid,  tliut  bids  the  world  at'iju. 
Oft  of  that  world  will  snatch  a  fo>>d  review  i    ■..:  ;• 
Qft  at  the  shrine  neglect  her  beads,  to  trace  . 
Some  social  scene,  some  dear  familiar  face, 
rorgot  when  first  a  father's  stern  controul 
Chas'd  the  gay  visions  of  her  opening  soul : 
And  ere,  with  iron  tongue,  the  vesper-bell 
Bursts  through  the  cypress-walk,  the  convent-cell, 
Oft  will  her  warm  and  wayward  heart  revive,        .> 
To  lore  «nd  joy  still  tremblingly  alive." 

RooEitn. 


With  respect  to  the  religious  tenets — the  habits 
and  manners — the  political  and  military  regula- 
tions— of  the  Canadian  population  ;  there  is  much 
room  for  remark.  It  does  not  appear  that  there  is 
much  ubbimilation  between  Upper  and  Lower  Ca- 
nada, and  in  some  respects  there  is  a  strange  con- 
trast. In  one  thing  particularly  they  agree,  and 
that  is,  in  an  utter  dislike  for  their  republican 
neighbours.  This  hostility  is  accounted  for 
among  the  poorer  classes,  by  tlie  influence  of 
Priestcraft  J  and  among  the  rich,  by  jealousy  of  the 
power  and  wealth  in  the   Republic. 

In  religious  matters,  the  Canadians,  generally, 
are  enveloped  in  the  same  infatuated  superstition 
and  ignorance,  as  those  who  fust  migrated  from 
their  native  France:  change  of  government  has  had 
no  effect.  As  long  as  these  colonies  are  guarded 
from  foreign  attacks,  no  matter  whether  by  French 


% '  ''s 


fit  \Ji~^tjifA!/t. 


I  '  ^i^itfatiefKii  ^.^A  . 


h 


'i 


137 

or  British  arms,  and  the  Catholic  religion  con- 
tinues to  have  the  ascendency,  her  priests  will 
cleave  to  the  ruling  power,  in  hoodwinking  the 
people,  and  at  the  same  time,  the  people  will 
pamper  and  worship  the  priests.  At  perpetual 
variance  with  this  system  of  ratiocination,  the 
United  States  has  interposed  her  rising  influence. 
The  proximity  of  the  States,  their  religious  liber- 
ty, and  growing  institutions,  cannot  fail  to  be 
considered  by  these  spiritual  shepherds,  with  sus- 
picious dread.  Their  interest  however  is  secur- 
ed by  thus  adhering  to  the  ruling  party,  which  on 
the  other  hand  is  governed  by  priestly  influence. 
So  turns  the  wheel !  The  priest  lives  on  the 
fat  of  the  land,  and  secures  his  tenure  by  means 
most  effectual  in  continuing  the  ignorance  of  the 
people  ;  such  as  not  permitting  marriages  with 
hereticks,  or  reading  any  book  without  his  know- 
ledge :  while  the  Canadian  peasant,  too  poor  to  be 
oppressed,  and  too  ignorant  to  complain,  takes  no 
share  in  government  concerns,  and  casting  his 
religion  on  the  priest^s  shoulder, 

• 

"  Is  always  easy,  reign  whoever  may, 
And  laughs  the  sense  of  misery,  far  away." 

Were  the  rising  youth  in  Canada  educated  at 
*  schools  dispersed  throughout  the  villages,  and 

M  2 


.i  h. 


i 


ii;.,..M.^iAij.. 


:a?,. 


^Sa^GdL. 


•*»-r:rt. 


-.irf**-'- 


'» 


J  ■; 


nil 

[■|^ 

nill  ' 

P|i' 

If  J  ' 

Imi 

i 

138 

thickly  settled  districts  ;  their  minds  would  gra- 
dually improve  in  literary  pursuits,  and  imbibe 
the  principles  of  morality.  All  distinction  of 
manners  and  national  feeling  between  old  and 
new  settlers  would  soon  disappear,  and  the  peo- 
ple be  united  into  one,  in  the  course  of  a  few 
generations,  were  the  English  language  taught 
in  their  schools.  A  similar  result  has  taken  place 
in  several  French  colonies,  in  the  United  States, 
in  less  than  half  a  generation.  The  progress  of 
French  Louisiana  since  its  cession  to  the  United 
States,  affords  an  example  ;  and  also  the  same  may 
be  expected  at  Alabama  and  the  Floridas.  A  peo- 
ple uninlightened  and  superstitious,  like  that  of 
Canada,  have  in  the  case  of  the  first,  been  trans- 
formed in  a  few  years,  to  a  wonderful  polish. 
American  colonies  (as  they  may  be  termed)  are 
thus  turned  into  wealthy  States,  and  produce  an 
additional  gain,  instead  ef  being  an  expense  to 
the  nation. 

It  is  indeed  very  much  to  be  wondered  at,  that 
more  pains  have  not  been  taken,  to  amalgamate 
the  old  afd  new  population,  in  breaking  dowH 
this  strongly  rooted  distinction,  so  opposite  to 
English  schools.  No  better  reason  than  that 
already  mentioned  can  be  given,  the  fear  of  an 
interference  between  the  temporal  and  spiritual 


139 


powers.  As  a  wise  community  would  be  more 
likely  to  instigate  the  measure,  so  an  ignorant 
one  is  an  effectual  safeguard  against  it.  As  an 
exception  to  so  vile  a  scheme,  may  be  consider- 
ed the  collegiate  institution  established  at  Mon- 
treal ;  .the  plan  of  which  is  both  economical 
and  meritorious.  Students  are  admitted  here  on 
terms  of  perfect  equality,  as  respects  tuition, 
board,  and  the  habits  required  to  be  worn.  I 
could  not  learn,  that  any  particular  age,  or  attain- 
ments were  requisite  ;  but  the  College  terms  are 
eight  years.  During  this  time,  it  is  professed, 
to  teach  the  French  language,  reading,  writ- 
ing, arithmetic,  geography,  natural  and  moral 
philosophy,  Latin,  Greek,  and  the  higher  branches 
of  mathematics,  &c.  &c.  In  the  study  room,  each 
student  has  his  place  appropriated  ;  where  he  is 
compelled  to  be  engaged,  by  an  overseer,  seven 
liours  per  day.  There  are  regular  times  also 
for  eating,  recitation,  exercise,  and  sleep.  The 
management  is  vested  in  the  hands  of  the  Catholic 
«lergy,  but  we  were  credibly  infomed  that  religion 
and  politics  were  not  particularly  enjoined ;  and 
there  are  instances  of  foreign  youth  having  been 
educated  at  this  institution. 

The  Government  of  the  Canadas  consists  of  a 
Governor  appointed  by  the  crown  j  a  Legislative 


1  f : 


l'         i, 


If 


^  I 


'I 


Jl 


z:^^mm.. 


•i:" 


'il.Ir*'^:;-'  •  '•'  --■,%<Jfe-'/'' 


iS^- 


/. 


J  i 


140 

council,  composed  in  Upper  Canada  of  seven, 
and  in  Lower  of  fifteen  members,  chosen  for 
life  by  the  Governor  ;  and  a  Lower  House  or 
Assembly,  elected  by  the  freeholders  of  the  dis- 
tricts, who  choose  new  members  once  in  four 
years.  A  majority  thus  arises  in  the  Legislative 
body,  in  favour  of  Lower  or  French  Canada  con- 
stantly in  opposition  to  the  policy  of  the  English 
members ;  and  must  continue,  so  long  as  these 
are  outnumbered.  On  this  system,  the  improve- 
ment of  roads,  or  cars,  for  the  prevention  of 
holes,  in  the  sleighing  season,  is  not  attended  to  ; 
it  being  a  maxim  with  the  present  generation,  to 
go  in  the  same  track  as  iheir  ancestors,  for  fear 
of  British  influence.  To  ivhat  length  this  spirit 
may  be  carried,  is  not  easily  perceived  ;  but  if 
followed  up,  in  all  their  measures,  there  is  no 
hope  of  amendment. 

An  American,  on  entering  the  frontier  towns  of 
Canada,  is  struck  with  the  impropriety  of  keep- 
ing up  so  strong  a  military  force.  A  line  of  sol- 
diery is  drawn  up  to  relieve  guard,  to  meet  an 
officer  coming  out  of  church,  or  some  parade  ex- 
traordinary, as  there  has  been  to-day,  of  the 
whole  regiment,  to  bury  an  old  Commissaire. 
If  one  half  of  this  were  carried  on  in  the  United 
States,  people  would  run  out  of  their  wits,  and 


.^iJiW 


'■•?:-'T< 


141 


take  alarm  for  the  public  money.  In  time  of 
peace,  nobody  thinks  about  fire-locks  and  side- 
arms  J  "  swords  are  beaten  into  ploughshares^  and 
'Spears  into  pruning-hooks.^^  '•. ,      *    , 

This  military  ardour  does  not  operate  then, 
as  might  be  expected  ;  that  of  rousing  a  corres- 
])onding  feeling  among  their  neighbours.  The 
American  people  do  not  take  the  alarm  at  any 
such  measures,  but  like  a  band  of  brothers,  es- 
teem their  liberties  secure,  as  long  as  they  con- 
tinue united.  In,  consequence  of  this,  they  know- 
no  powi"-  'f  om  they  dread  ;  while  the  wealth  of 
the  nati*.  •  :.^s  in  her.  own  arm,  called  forth  to 
exei'ilun  \july  vvlicu  occasion  may  require.  The 
great  buUvark  of  her  riches — her  happinesa — 
her  strength — is  placed  in  the  hands  of  her  mi- 
litia. Her  citizens  are,  whea  occasion  calls,  all 
soldiers.        .^  .:,,<   , 

A  better  reason  may  be  found  for  these  war- 
like measures  on  the  Canadian  frontier,  than  to 
arouse  like  exertions  among  her  American  neigh- 
bours. These  are  not  necessarily  warriors ; 
agriculture,  commerce,  and  manufactures^  are  the 
instinctive  engagements  of  the  American,  and 
mark  the  constitutional  character;  not  ambition  of 
t-onquest. — Her  institutions  are  essentially  peace- 
ful— T\\Q   only  motto  of  her  administration  is. 


I  ■ 


1 


1  f 


-  '•' 


K^ 


I  '.i 


vi^ 


.  :^)L-  d^:.\ 


\ 


-'.^.M^^. 


142 


I    ! 


govern  yourselves.  It  is  not  then  to  the  States, 
that  the  aims  of  the  government  are  directed,  in 
thus  expending  her  treasures.  A  rivalship  of  Eu- 
ropean policy,  is  what  would  be  most  prejudicial 
to  the  interests  of  Canada  !  This  would  be  na- 
turally produced,  by  her  rising  power  and  growth. 
To  this  circumstance  is  the  measure  attributa- 
ble, which  justifies  the  steps  of  the  British  go- 
vernment towards  promoting  the  peace  and  pros- 
perity in  the  colony,  and  at  the  same  time  is  a 
corrective  of  the  soporific  result,  of  too  much 
security.  .      •  \  ■■.'.,     ■  ..ycj'.-':. 

It  is  due  to  the  credit  of  that  nation,  to  say, 
that  a  stimulus  is  given  to  her  colonies,  by  the 
leniency  of  regulating  the  public  tveal.     It  is  hot 
here  that  the  people  of  Canada  have  just  grounds 
of  complaint.    The  farmer  enjoys  the  fruits  of  his 
labour  under  the  retirement  of  his  own  roof,  and 
ihe  more  enterprising  citizen  claims  a  right  of 
protection,  equal  to  the  good  old  times.     There  is 
no  rumour,  that  the  rights  of  the  people  are  tres- 
passed upon,  in  this  particular,  nor  of  altering 
the     habits  of    the    primitive    French    settlers. 
There   is  no  material  difference  in  the   rate  ot 
taxes,  nor  variation  in  the  laws  even  in  point  oi 
language  ;  while  on  the  one  hand  a  more  advan- 
tageous trade   is  offered   for  their  produce,  and 


>  •.! 


:r-iS:i.:.::i: . 


i::^^^*.: 


143 


e  States, 
rected,  in 
lip  of  Eu- 
rejudicial 
lid  be  na- 
d  growth, 
attributa- 
ritish  go- 
and  pros- 
:  time  is  a 
too  much 

n,  to  say, 
;s,  by  the 
It  is  not 
St  grounds 
uits  of  his 
roof,  and 
a  right  oi 
There  is 
e  are  tres- 
of  altering 
settlers, 
he   rate  oi 
n  point  ol 
ore  advan- 
jduce,  an(i 


ihe  necessary  articles  of  British  manufacture  im- 
ported, at  the  lowest  rate  and  without  duties  ; 
habits  of  industry  are  inculcated,  and  measures 
taken  to  facilitate   the  plans  of  the  industrious 
settler  ;  and  where  he  does   not  succeed,  as  well 
as  in  the  States,  it  must  be  attributed  to  the  in- 
clemency of  the  climate,  or  a  want  of  enterprise. 
But  this  is  not  all — The  British  government  here, 
as  in  other  colonies,  may  consider  her  success, 
as  arising  from  the  never-ceasing  exertions,  con- 
ferred on  the  cause  of  Religion.     Here  again  has 
the  missionary  labour  been  blessed,  and  though ' 
not  with  such  apparent  success  as  in  other  places,* 
(for  reasons  before  mentioned),  yet  it  may  be  easi- 
ly traced,  to  the  mildness  of  political  measures, 
in  not  resenting  the  Papal  ascendency.     Religious 
and  political  jealousies  are,  by  this  means,  kept 
out  of  view,  as  much  as  possible  ;  and  the  public 
mind  freed  from  the  bickerings  that  would  other- 
wise arise.     From  these  circumstances,  therefore, 
it  is  obvious,  why  Religion  has  been  left  to  work 
its  own  way,  without  the  interference  of  govern- 
ment. 

*  The  writer  refers  for  the  elucidation  of  this  fact,  to  the  re- 
ports of  the  British  and  Foj-eign  Bible,  and  Church  Missionary 
Societies. 


H 


r.^JM. 


.  ■■;•)..    I 


r'f[  'b:  :*"f:j ;."■':"  ■rtn^^y'-hfs  '^'•• 


^.■■-^.  K^ 


•iJ'iA 


^C  ;'■■'» 


,«' 


:.  m 


1 1 


'rki  : 


j- 


■i  f'u::-«';*_ 


■>T.;        ^     • 
'■"•:  '-•V.^-'y'.i 


■'"   t 


/  -ff-    (■»•■> 


i.'       m 


"i^ 


.  .*A.yi^^jr  ^1  J 


'■  -'-^g^g^ 


;;:  '-ha  '■'- 

.    •         •■  • 

,.  '.""  o-if^ 

•  '•''  1- 

•;    ..'i 

'.:    :  ■■'s'ji 

'i:i?nri'-v'-?. 

Hetros] 

':riit:H4^'''i 

Grou 

;,>;?f-5  ^fv 

—St 

'  :•' 


!    :,   m 


'■r .  *'-'i'^ 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


Hetrospectlon  of  the  Tour— View  on  leaving  Montreal- 
Group  of  Passengers — La  Prairie — Travellers'  AIternatlv« 


20th.  Few  excursions,  during  the  summer 
season,  are  productive  of  more  benefit  or  ration- 
al amusement,  than  the  one  which  has  been  the 
subject  of  the  within  descriptions.  All  the 
varieties  of  travelling,  peculiar  to  our  western 
country,  are  experienced  in  a  great  degree ; — in- 
ternal improvements  of  every  description  are  going 
on ; — and  an  interesting  diversity  of  scenery  is 
presented  to  view  among  the  lesser  lakes.  When 
we  add  to  these,  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  that  won- 
derful production  of  Nature,  (to  see  which  some 
have  pronounced  worthy  of  an  Atlantic  voyage,) 
together  with  the  imposing  greatness  of  her  in- 
land seas,  which  the  world  cannot  equal ;  and 
the  unencompassed  extent  of  forest,  on  their  dark 
lined  shores ;  the  New  World,  in  point  of  wild 
sublimity,  (Switzerland  excepted,)  may  be  pro- 
nounced  superior  to   Europe.     To   the  refined 

N 


146 


i  r 


JC. ' 


taste,  however,  ol  the  traveller,  much  is  to  be 
allowed  ;  for  the  varying  pleasure,  derived  from 
that  mixture  of  nature  and  art,  pictured  in  no 
country  on  earth,  save  in  the  Alpine  region. 

It  has  been  before  observed,  that  the  autumn 
ought  not  to  be  selected  as  a  proper  season 
for  descending  the  St.  Lawrence  ;  on  account 
of  the  fever,  so  prevalent  along  the  shores  of 
that  river  :  particularly  as  it  may  be  desirable, 
to  some  travellers,  to  extend  their  tour  as  far  as 
Quebec.  In  which  case,  in  order  that  full  time  may 
be  given,  it  were  better,  even  from  the  middle 
States,  that  four  months  were  appropriated.  The 
month  of  June  being  fixed  for  starting,  a  visit 
might  be  paid  to  Saratoga,  so  as  to  leave  it  by 
the  first  of  July ;  and  performing  the  round  of  Ni- 
agara and  the  lakes,  down  to  Montreal,  by  the 
first  of  August,  the  time  might  be  so  disposed  of 
in  Lower  Canada,  as  to  return  in  September. 
Many  circumstances  may  conspire,  to  vary  this 
excursion  ;  none  more  than  season,  should  be  ad- 
mitted. For  which  reasons,  and  from  the  limit 
of  our  time  to  one  month^  the  visit  to  Quebec 
was  suspended,  and  a  turn  south  given  to  our 
Canadian  travels. 

On  leaving  Montreal  for  La  Prairie  there  is 
presented   a   beautiful    view  of  the   city.     The 


■   ■  •i-'i-'iW'^"'--';-  i'"-r^^'<i>.*''Mfrfrih"fi¥^i*''.H'^-"'l'-/'lLf*---  I  -l^  n 


:  '^iQLi- vsk^^y^^-^k'^^  .'j^.  >v^r-^.^\i^^ 


147 


banks  are  considerably  elevated  above  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and  a  small  rise  immediately  com- 
mencing, affords  a  prospect  over  the  greater  part 
of  the  island.  Extending  in  the  back  ground 
the  mountain  rears  its  double  head,  in  sullen  ma- 
jesty, to  bound  the  vision.  The  landscape,  gradu- 
ally rising  behind  the  city  and  speckled  with  white 
villas,  affords  a  relief,  from  the  dark  brow  of  the 
mountain,  and  glare  of  the  shining  roofs.  Three 
silvery  spires,  peering  above  the  houses,  shed  a 
lustre  amid  the  beauteous  scene  ;  mitigated  by  the 
dark  shade  of  the  Convent  wall.  The  Prison, 
and  Court-house  stand  conspicuous ;  while  the 
aspiring  hern.  In  benignant  pride,  looks  down 
from  the  monumental  pillar.  At  a  little  distance 
below,  the  peaceful  St.  Helena,  studded  with  forest 
trees,  and  interposing  a  soft  aspect,  from  the 
half  seen  little  mansions,  rises  into  view,  amid 
the  ruff  surface  of  the  river. 

From  the  pleasing  reverie  produced  by  these 
prospects,  my  attention  was  diverted  on  behold- 
ing the  motley  group,  of  which  the  passengers  on 
board  the  steam-boat  were  composed.  Anglo- 
American,  English,  Irish,  and  Canadian  French ; 
of  whom  the  latter  appeared  to  have  the  ascen- 
dency in  point  of  numbers.  These  men  were 
engaged  in  a  kind  of  pantomimic  representation, 


r      ■* 


s*- 


tU^i^aL. 


148 

or    good-humoured    burlesque.      When   a  low 
Frenchman  is  really  disposed  to  be  in  a  happy 
mood,  there  are  few   that  can  excel  him.     There 
is  nothing  like  quarrel,  among  one  of  these  fel- 
lows,  when  half-seas  over ;   or  a  disposition,  if 
intoxicated,  to  allay  his  spleen  (according  to  the 
custom  of  most  other  vulgar  people)  in  an  offen- 
sive  volubility  of  language.     In  place  of  this, 
every  effort  at  wit  is  attempted  ;  some  ridiculous 
idea  brought  into  view  by  a  distorted  gesticula- 
tion, significant  shrugs  of  contentment  or  disap- 
probation,  repartee,  or  low   merriment,    never 
fail  to  raise  among  the  gaping  crowd,  an  exhaust- 
less    fund   of   glee.     Every    on«»  RtareB   at  his 
neighbour,  as  if  on  the  point  of  disclosing  mat- 
ters of  wonderful  importance ;  if  he  fail  it  is  no 
odds,  the  joke  has  begun,  and  another  will  finish 
it.     This  is  all  done  in  the  best  humour,  for  not 
a  man  amongst  them,  but  had  as  leave  be  laugh- 
ed at  for  a  failure  as  a  hit.     In  fact  it  is  impossi- 
ble to  tell  with  which  he   is  most  pleased,  his 
own  wit  or  that  of  his  neighbour,  unless  it  hap- 
pens singly  ;  and  then,  the  one  raising  the  laugh 
is  sure  to  keep  his  own  countenance  unmoved. 
So  unceasing  are  the  modes  of  invention,  and 
barbarous  the  effort,  notwithstanding  its  success, 
as  to  create  a  supposition,   that  human  beings 


mi 


;n  a  low 

a  happy 
1.  There 
these  fel- 
losition,  if 
ing  to  the 
I  an  offen- 
e  of  this, 
ridiculous 

gesticula- 
t  or  disap- 
nt,  never 
,n  exhaust- 
ires  at  his 
3sing  mat- 
ail  it  is  no 

will  finish 
iir,  for  not 

be  laugh- 
is  impossi- 

eased,  his 

ess  it  hap- 
the  laugh 

unmoved. 

ition,  and 

|ts  success, 

lan  beings 


149 

iiad  been  outlawed,  and  were  among  the  list  of 
performers  ;  or,  that  between  apes  and  men,  there 
existed  a  contest  for  pre-eminence. 

La  Prairie^  distant  nine  miles  from  Montreal, 
is  a  neat  French  settlement,  so  called  from  the 
quantity  of  meadow  in  the  circumjacent  country. 
This  place  has  a  style  of  building  or  peculiar 
fashion,  with  respect  to  the  elevation  and  porches 
at  the  doors  ;  though  there  is  much  of  a  sameness 
in  all  French  towns.  It  is  remarkable  for  the 
number  of  inns,  and  for  the  breweries,  and  bar- 
racks in  its  vicinity. 

Although  fashion  may  be  considered  as  uniform 
among  the  French,  still  every  parish  or  seigniory 
has  its  distinguishing  bawble  ;  if  it  be  only  in  the 
colour  of  the  sugar-loaf  cap,  or  the  blue,  instead 
of  the  red  sash.  With  a  trifling  exception  the 
Canadian  peasant  may  be  supposed  to  retain  an 
unsophisticated  resemblance  to  the  companions 
of  Jacques  Cartier ;  the  long  greasy  queue,  moc- 
casons  of  undressed  hide,  a  grey  capote,  wooden 
shoes,  and  a  short  pipe  in  his  mouth,  are  most 
certain  indications  of  the  presence   of  a   Bour- 

There  was  a  sufficient  number  of  the  party  who 
came  over  from  Montreal,  and  were  bound  to 
take  a  passage   in   the   Congress   steam-boat,  to 

N  2 


i 


\  1 


}   ! 


u.'  ,^'..... 


J 


150 


II     < 


ill  I 


load  two  calhhcs.  The  distance  to  St.  John'8  is 
eighteen  miles,  over  an  indifferent  and  very 
crooked  road.  It  being  nearly  six  o'clock  before 
we  started,  considerable  alarm  was  exc.ted  as 
soon  as  it  was  dark,  on  account  of  the  ditch  ex- 
tending on  each  side  of  the  road,  as  there  appear- 
ed very  little  probability  of  going  but  a  step  or 
two,  either  to  right  or  left,  without  being  over- 
turned. The  drivers  declaring  their  utter  inca- 
pacity to  see  the  danger,  there  seemed  to  be  a 
pretty  general  determination  (and  not  without 
good  reason)  to  stop  at  the  first  inn.  Matters 
were  accordingly  thus  arranged  after  some  alter- 
cation at  the  half-way  house,  and  the  party 
alighted. 

It  is  one  of  the  most  unpleasant  situations 
which  a  traveller  can  be  placed  in,  to  be  under 
the  necessity  of  alighting  at  an  inn,  where  there 
is  neither  an  expectation  of  company,  rfor  suita- 
ble provision  for  them  when  they  arrive.  This 
was  unhappily  our  case,  and  so  we  put  up  with 
the  alternative.  Such  perplexities  are  best  re- 
lieved by  the  significant  shrug  of  a  Frenchman, 
or  a  "  mais  ce  n'est  pas  toujours  ainsi."  It .  is  a 
great  comfort  to  know  that  it  might  have  been 
worse ;  a  plunge  into  the  ditch,  or  a  broken  leg, 
-would  have  been  no  trifling  consideration  j  and 


L''.\'  .' 


Vi> 


151 

so  that  a  sound  skull  be  housed  above  ground,  it 
is  better  than  taking  the  chance  of  a  tottering 
ealeche.     If  it  were  a  connivance  between  drivers 
and  innkeeper  that  we  should,  so  also  it  was  no 
less  a  matter  of  policy,  on  our  part,  to  remain. 
By  way  of  variety  also,  it  will  be  well  enough  to 
mention,  that  our  agreeable  travelling  circle  fro:  \ 
Niagara  had  parted  from  us  at  Montreal,  and 
that  the  company  with  whuui  we  were  now  asso- 
ciated was  but  a  bad  exchange.    Considerable  bus- 
tle was  excited  on  our  arrival,   and  a  requisition 
laid  upon  the  spare  beds  and  settees,  which  could 
be  found  ;  this  did  not  augur  very  favourably,  but 
at  length  terminated  to  the  general  satisfaction. 
The  landlord  made  no  particular  promises  to  any, 
but  to  do  the  best  for  all  ;  and  so  accepting  the 
good  man's  offer  of  what  the  house  afforded,  we 
determined  to  make  the  best  of  our  supper  and 
lodgings.     This   is  the  fairest  resolve  possible, 
and  does  not  often  meet  with  a  disappointment. 
Though  ihe  fare  was  none  of  the  best,  i*^   ' .  \s 
prepared  with  that  best  of  all  ingredients,  clean- 
liness, and  the  lea  served  up  by  a  young  -voman, 
who  had  the    appearance  of   being  h  .th  cook- 
maid  and  mistress,  with  a  neatness  and  dexterity 
which  quite  surprised  us.     Being  thus  refreshed, 


"■V- 


.....,^. 


.jJ^.'/VK^'St:- 


/ 


M. 


152 


\i 


my  two  companions  and  I  made  out  to  secure 
for  our  share  a  couple  of  beds,  and  then  retired. 
21st.  We  were  awakened  early  so  as  to  be 
in  time  to  breakfast  at  ^S^t.  John's^  and  sail  at 
eight  o'clock  in  th'"  morning  in  the  Congress. 
This  place  has  been  always  favourable  for  bu- 
siness :  situated  at  the  outlet  of  Lake  Champlain, 
it  was  considered  an  important  post  during  the 
French  and  Revolutionary  wars.  In  the  latter, 
after  a  gallant  defence,  it  was  taken  by  general 
Montgomery,  as  was  also  Chambly.  It  contains, 
in  a  range  along  the  bank,  about  one  hundred 
houses,  by  no  means  of  an  inviting  appearance. 


i  \ 


„L..-*i. '.'-t^TSij&^'^-i'. 


'ill 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

l.ake  Cbamplain— Isle  aux   Noix— Plattsburgh :    Singular 
Adventure  on  Shore— Burlington — Sunset. 

The  actual  length  of  Lake  Champlain  does  not 
exceed  eighty  miles,  nor  its  greatest  breadth 
fourteen.  It  forms  part  of  the  boundary  line  be- 
tween the  states  of  New- York  and  Vermont,  and 
is  said  to  have  been  called  after  a  French  Gover- 
nor of  the  name  of  Champlain,  who  was  drown- 
ed in  It.  Tiie  snores  ot  this  lake  are  classic 
ground  to  the  American,  as  well  as  to  every  lover 
of  liberty.  A  great  portion  of  the  lands  at  the 
north  end  are  low  and  uncultivated. 

Isle  aux  NoiXf  situated  fourteen  miles  from  St. 
John's,  contains  very  strong  fortifications,  military 
and  naval  store-houses.  At  this  place  the  British 
vessels  were  constructed  which  plied  on  the  waters 
of  Champlain.  Many  are  now  drawn  up,  and  put 
under  cover  in  dock,  and  others  remain  unfinish- 
ed, which  were  commenced  during  the  late  war. 
The  fort  has  a  very  commanding  situation  on 
the  lake,  although  standing  on  low  ground.  It 
ippeared  to  be  in  a  good  state  of  repair.     There 


\ 

I      SI 


1 


.■Hit^^ftl'    ..     :»,. 


154 


'J 


ii  .. 


A 


is  also  here  a  barracks,  capable  of  garrisoning  a 
large  number  of  soldiers. 

On  entering  the  territory  of  the  United  States 
the  shores  assume  a  more  improvable  and  salu- 
brious appearance.  The  neat  village  o/  Platts- 
biirgh  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  lake, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Saranac.  It  contains  a 
Court-house,  Prison,  and  about  one  hundred 
dwellings.  This  place  has  acquired  deserved  ce- 
lebrity, by  reason  of  the  brilliant  victory  of  Com- 
modore Macdonough,  and  General  Macomb,  over 
the  British  army  and  flotilla,  under  the  command 
of  Sir  George  Prevost,  and  Captain  Downie. 

It  might  reasonably  be  supposed,  that  the  event- 
ful history  of  America,  and  especially  all  the 
particulars  of  the  late  war,  were  treasured  up  in 
the  mind  of  every  citizen,  and  ready  to  be  com- 
municated to  each  inquiring  stranger  ;  under  this 
impression,  travellers  are  not  unfrequently  in  an 
error  on  arriving  near  some  town,  celebrated  in 
the  annals  of  warfare  ;  by  supposing  that  they 
will  find  the  spot  pointed  out,  or,  as  in  the  old 
countries,  a  Cicerone  personated  by  some  idle  vil- 
lager, in  waiting  at  least,  if  not  offering  his  ser- 
vices. Herein  lies  the  mistake,  for  no  such 
person  is  to  be  met  with,  even  among  the  lower 
orders ;  and  as  to  everv  active  citizen,  he  has 


¥ 


# 


!b2iiM^v.«,.<...»'i&l4. 


155 


enough  other  employment.  I  do  not  pi  etend  to 
say,  that  this  arises  from  any  deficiency  of  na- 
tional pride,  or  from  the  want  of  a  due  know- 
ledge of  the  historical  fact ;  but  rather  an  unas- 
suming spirit,  which  retires  from  a  repetition  of 
what  fame  has  already  trumpeted.  The  truth 
is,  that  the  American  considers  the  more  useful 
occupation  of  his  trade,  or  putting  his  hand  to 
the  plough,  a  sufficient  apology  for  not  being 
able  to  comply  with  the  expectation  of  the  cu- 
rious stranger.  ,       . 

I  should  not  have  been  led  into  these  reflec- 
tions, but  from  the  circumstance  of  having  pass- 
ed by,  or  occasionally  visited,  places  where  seve- 
ral important  battles  had  been  fought,  during  the 
last  war.  The  remark  will  hold  good,  with  re- 
spect to  the  Canadian,  or  American,  in  the  case  of 
ihe  battles  of  Lxindij's  Jmyic  and  *  Chippexva.  In 
fact,  "you  may  be  a  long  time  on  the  frontiers, 
without  hearing  much  of  the  circumstances  either 
from  one  side  or  the  other  ;  or  knowing  even  the' 
site  of  these  engagements,  but  for  the  tombs  of 
the  lamented  and  unfortunate  heroes. 

In  corroboration  of  my  opinion,  let  me  be  per- 
mitted to  mention  one  circumstance  more.  It 
serves  to  show  how  desirable  it  is,  for  the  peace- 
able   citizen  to   have   every  animosity,    which 


>ii 


% 


M    '\ 


/ 


-....^«».   <**w«s.(i^.,«iM  '.''^^li^^-'.  >'i"fr 


**,v*i.. 


..    1iBI»»«W,. 


■4rtk.«iA'' 


156 


1:8^!'':: 


ii 


a  recurrence  to  the  event  might  excite,  buried 
in  oblivion.  On  arriving  at  Plattsburgh  it  was 
intimated  by  our  captain,  that  the  steam-boat 
would  remain  an  hour.  Seven  of  our  company, 
of  whom  I  was  one,  made  up  our  minds  to  visit 
the  town,  and  go  in  search  of  the  battle  grounds. 
We  proceeded  along  the  margin  of  the  little 
bay,  and  through  part  of  this  neatly  situated 
place,  on  the  declivity  of  a  hill,  when  it  was  sug- 
gested that  we  ought  to  make  some  inquiries.  Ac- 
cordingly accosting  a  townsman,  we  desired  him 
to  show  us  the  battle  grounds.  He  observed, "  they 
are  over  there,"  but  this  reply  not  being  satisfac- 
tory to  some  of  our  party,  and  the  man  moving 
on,  was  asked  to  be  more  particular.  To  which 
he  answered,  "  That  they"  (the  people  of  this 
place)  "  were  not  Jighting  characters.*^  At  which 
our  party  began  a  laugh  ;  this  the  man  mistak- 
ing, as  if  personally  intended,  declared  that  we 
might  see  the  battle  ground  without  going  any 

farther,  for  he  would  fight  either  one  of  us  sing- 
ly.  In  this  mood  we  left  him,  and  changing  the 
inquiry,  to  an  honest  farmer,  on  horseback ;  ad- 
dressed him,  by  the  milder  salutation  of,  "  my 
friend."  "  O  !"  said  he,  "  we  have  forgotten  all 
about  such  things  now,  and  it  is  best  not  to  bring 
up  the  subject ;  but  try  to  be  neighbours  ; — we 
are  all  peaceable  on  this  side."     From  the  dispo- 


-..,.. ii^ 


15; 


te,  buried 
gh  it  was 
team-boat 
company, 
ds  to  visit 
!e  grounds. 
the  little 
y  situated 
it  was  sug- 
liries.   Ac- 
lesired  him 
•ved,"they 
ag  satisfac- 
an  moving 
To  which 
►pie  of  this 
At  which 
an  mistak- 
d  that  we 
going  any 
of  us  sing' 
langing  the 
eback ;  ad- 
m  of,  "  my 
argotten  all 
lot  to  bring 
)Ours ; — we 
the  dispo- 


sition of  the  man,  it  appeared  that  he  spoke  as  he 
thought ;  and  wishing  to  turn  the  conversation, 
began  to  inquire,  where  we  were  from  ?"  Such 
parley  not  exactly  corresponding  to  our  wishes, 
we  broke  off  from  this  sturdy  son  of  Cincinnatus, 
and  took  the  course,  which  to  ourselves  seemed 
most  likely  to  lead  to  the  grounds. — Wc  had  not 
time  to  reach,  but  saw,  them  at  a  distance.  Not 
having  perfectly  satisfied  our  curiosity,  and  wish- 
ing to  be  more  certain,  on  returning  we  met  a 
party  of  young  ladies ;  and  so  believed  ourselves 
now,  under  fairer  prospects  of  success.  One 
of  our  number  politely  accosted  them  with  the 
same  question,  which  had  been  put  on  the  two 
former  occasions.  It  was  prefaced  with  an  air 
of  good  humour,  which  told  that  the  inquirer 
really  felt  a  solicitude.  The  damsels  with  wist- 
ful tenderness,  each  caught  a  look  from  the 
other,  till  one  more  bold  than  the  rest,  came  out 
with  a — "  Sir!  you  are  not  in  the  road,  Sir !"  Not 
in  the  road  to  the  battle  grounds  7  repeated  our 
spokesman.  "  No  Sir, — indeed  you  are  not,  Sir." 
— Finding  ourselves  completely  foiled  a  third 
time,  and  the  laugh  turning  upon  us,  he  continu- 
ed pointing  towards  the  direction  in  which  we  had 
been  walking ;  "  is  this  then,  or  that,  the  right 
Way  ?"  To  which  they  said,  "  That  is  best  known 

o 


.^<i        uik'thiuA ! 


riawrfc*"- 


^wsrwii"' 


158 


'■■  vX 


f 


i.    :'■ 


to  yourselves,  and  how  should  we  know  any 
more  ?"  With  which  they  left  us,  observing,  that 
"  we  had  better  go  on  board  and  mind  our  own 
business.*' 

Amidst  the  wilder  and  more  mountainous  parts 
of  the  lake,  the  beautiful  town  of  Burlington 
rises  to  view.  This  flourishing  place,  possesses 
singular  attractions.  The  College,  elevated  up- 
wards of  three  hundred  feet,  is  at  the  top  of  the 
eminence,  and  overlooks  the  town.  It  is  a  brick 
building,  four  stories  high,  founded  in  the  year 
1791,  and  there  are  educated  annually  above  forty 
students.  Ascending  gradually  from  the  shore,  the 
neat  white  edifices,  so  particularly  attractive  of 
the  notice  of  a  stranger,  in  the  New-England 
States,  impose  a  beauteous  contrast,  with  the 
surrounding  scenery  ;  as  do  the  walls  brightened 
by  the  sunshine  and  pleasing  order  preserved  by 
the  slope,  interspersed  with  trees  which  mark  the 
line  of  streets  and  peaceful  home. 

On  ascending  to  take  a  walk  over  this  promis- 
ing town,  our  anticipations  were  by  no  means 
disappointed.  The  social  family  circle  was  here 
and  there  collected  about  the  village  mansion. 
— The  industrious  housewife  was  busied  at  her 
evening  toil ;  while  the  work-bag  employed  her 
daughters,  at  the  porch  or  window.— -A  cluster 


159 


of  prattlers  set  free  from  school-hour  tasks,  a 
moment  cease  to  giggle — and  pausing,  salute  the 
passing  stranger. 

A  marked  neatness  and  symmetry,  characterises 
the  dwellings  of  Burlington.  It  contains  above 
two  hundred  houses  and  stores,  besides  tAVO 
Churches,  the  Bank,  Court-house,  and  Gaol. 
There  is  a  fine  open  square  in  the  upper  part  of 
the  town,  in  which  are  a  few  elegant  buildings,  ta- 
vern, &c.  All  the  streets  are  right-angular  and 
very  capacious. 

On  leaving  the  shores  the  scene  was  diversified 
by  the  approach  of  night. 

"Jam  nox  inducere  terris 
Umbras,  et  ccclo  difiundere  signa  parabat." 

**  The  sun  was  sinking  in  golden  splendour."  His 
daily  course  was  run — When  my  eyes  dwelt 
upon  the  charming  village  in  vermilion  glow 
from  the  bright  tinge  of  the  windows,  softened 
by  the  pale  red  of  the  walls,  and  deep-green 
shade  of  trees.  The  College  overtopped  the 
scene,  loitering  as  if  to  catch  the  last  gleam  of 
sunshine. — The  bosom  of  the  little  bay  and  the 
unruffled,  broad  expanse  of  water  beyond,  filled 
with  the  silver  sails  of  batteaux  and  sloops,  seem- 


,#-. 


:•»■     "Kn.  ^^ 


'■%<"«»,'►.. 


160 


m 


X: 


i 


ed  all  to  invite  composure,  while  the  view  was 
bounded  by  a  range  of  mountains  raising  their 
purple  screen  in  the  horizon.  I  sated  on  the 
gaze — I  looked  again — 'Twas  the  chill  that  fore- 
warned me — Night's  curtain  had  dropped. 


^- 


J  ...,-.:»-■  ■^"-'*- 


H; '  ,ia»>»i'»r-. 


J^-d^aa*; 


.'     «'- 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Connexion  of  Thought — America — Mountainous  Countries-* 
Observations  on  Vermont — Civil  Liberty — Crown  Point  and 
Ticonderoga. 

It  is  difficult  very  often  to  discover  the  trace 
of  any  connexion  in  a  succession  of  our  own 
ideas.  The  mind,  in  some  of  her  wildest  mo- 
ments, is  apt  to  make  somewhat  unconnected, 
though  perhaps,  important  reflections  ;  and  it  is 
better  at  such  times  not  to  check  the  current,  but 
indulge  the  fancy.  I  have  often  been  amused  in 
thus  tracing  a  distant  connexion  in  the  chain  of 
thoughts.  In  this  way  many  precepts  in  life  are 
often  determined,  or  useful  maxims  drawn.  In 
the  present  instance,  it  is  not  at  all  presumed  that 
any  event  of  this  nature  will  be  derived ;  but 
merely  to  set  down  as  they  have  occurred,  the 
following  ideas  applicable  to  the  American  his- 
tory. '     ^ 

An  observation  has  been  generally  made,  that 
the  inhabitants  of  hilly  countries  are  more  heal- 
thy and  robust,  than  those  of  any  other.  The 
3turdy  Swiss,  Welshman,  and  aspiring  Scot,  fur- 

o  2 


.  jffiBt- 


•^^^:p:'M 


^     i 


162 

nish  examples  of  this  nature.  It  would  be  well 
for  these  to  join  in  a  body,  when  settling  down  in 
the  United  States,  in  some  spot  of  country  nearly 
assimilating  to  their  own.  The  mountainous  dis- 
tricts in  America  are  as  yet  but  little  peopled ; 
of  which  Vermont,  Pennsylvania,  and  others, 
may  be  mentioned :  it  being  the  natural  course  of 
settlers  to  leave  these  till  the  last,  passing  on  to 
remoter  regions  in  the  western  country.  The  ex- 
treme has  been  carried  quite  too  far,  and  is  the 
occasion,  very  often,  why  better  lands,  and  the 
more  intermediate,  have  been  passed  over.  If 
this  were  attended  to  more,  in  place  of  roaming 
through  the  interior  of  the  continent,  the  health 
of  emigrants  would  be  much  promoted.  A  hardy 
and  industrious  race,  descended  from  a  Tell,  a 
Wallace,  or  a  Cadwaladyr,  knotty  as  the  Alpine 
pine,  and  unfurling  their  banners  from  the  heights, 
would  flourish  in  the  heart  of  freedom.  Her  arm 
extends  throughout  the  land,  from  Maine  to  Flo- 
rida, to  invite  the  new  citizen,  and  inspire  the 
feeling  of  brotherhood. 

The  name  of  Vermont  is  derived  from  a  range 
of  mountains,  intersecting  the  country  from  north 
to  south,  covered  with  evergreen  forests.  This 
ridge  spreads  over  a  considerable  portion  of  the 
width  of  the  state,  rising  to  the  height  of  three 


V   f 


.■aih^^ 


^J:iSi-- 


163 

or  four  thousand  feet,  and  scooped  into  glens  and 
vallej's,  copiously  supplied  with  streams  of  water. 
The  largest  quantity  of  water  flows  westwardly 
into  Lake  Champlain,  whose  outlet  is  to  the  north  ; 
and   the  rest  takes  a  southwardly  course  through 
Connecticut  and  North  rivers ;  so  that  every  fa- 
cility of  water  carriage  is  afforded.     The  tops  of 
the  mountains  produce   inexhaustable   stores    of 
spruce,  pine,  cedar,  and  other  evergreens ;  and 
the  valleys  are  covered  with  oak,  elm,  ash,  beech, 
and  maple.     These,  however,  arc  much  cleared, 
and  afford  good  pasture  and  arable  lands  ;  which, 
in  some  places,  are  very  luxuriant.     The  inhabit- 
ants   are  mostly  agriculturists,    being    scattered 
throughout  the  state  in  small  villages ;   and  the 
largest  town  does  not  exceed  three  thousand  souls. 
Vermont,  the  younger  sister  in  the  revolution- 
ary struggle,  was  not  admitted  into  the  rank  of  a 
state,  till  after  the  cessation   of  hostilities.     An 
opposition  had  been  set  up,  during  her  colonial 
existence,  in  consequence  of  the  claim  of  lands, 
under  contradictory  acts  of  Great  Britain,  by  the 
two  adjoining  provinces  of  New-Hampshire  and 
New-York.     At  the  breaking  out  of  war  between 
England  and   America,  all  minor  considerations 
were  merged  in  the  general  good.     The  interest, 
which  before  had  compelled  an  assertion  of  the 


.W  % 


r 


j'4 

I 


,vi    v.j..-„ 


--.J 


:^U>.'.    "_CSm^Ow«'' 


r 


i..f 


I 


■■.i 


164 

individual  right,  became  for  a  time  lost  sight 
of,  notwithstanding  the  same  important  principles 
were  involved,  as  between  Great  Britain  and  her 
colonies  ;  namely,  the  right  of  a  people  to  self-go- 
vernme?it.  Vermont  had  first  rallied  under  the 
wings  of  freedom  ;  and  it  was  not  till  after  the 
Declaration  of  Independence,  that  she  claimed  of 
Congress,  the  right  of  being  admitted  amongst 
the  thirteen  confederated  states. 


i'lii 


"  O  Liberty,  llioii  goddess  heavenly  bright, 
rrofuse  of  bliss,  and  jircgnant  with  delight ! 
Eternal  pleasures  in  thy  presence  reign, 
And  smiling  plenty  leads  thy  wanton  train ; 
Eas'd  of  her  load,  subjection  grows  nnore  light, 
And  poverty  looks  cheerful  in  thy  sight ; 
Thou  mak'st  the  gloomy  face  of  Nature  gay, 
Giv'st  beauty  to  the  Sun,  and  pleasure  to  the  day." 

•   ,  AUOISON*. 


/ 


Civil  Ubertij  is  a  subject  of  so  much  importance 
to  the  habits  and  comfort  of  mankind,  as  well  as 
so  interesting  to  those  who  have  entered  into  the 
study  of  it,  as  to  have  employed  the  pens  of  many 
eminent  writers.  The  experience  of  nations  has 
an  evident  tendency,  among  various  schemes,  to 
discover  a  perfect  criterion  for  this  science  ;  but, 
perhaps,  the  world  itself  is  too  young  to  deter- 


165 

mine  any,  except  general  truths  in  politics  ;  and 
these  arc  not  likely  to  remain  so  permanently. 
The  art  of  reasoning  by  comparison  only,  is  more 
or  less  defective  on  this  subject,  and  the  nume- 
rous writers  unsatisfactory  and  inconclusive. 
The  degrees  of  virtue  and  vice,  assumed  under 
diflerent  forms  of  government,  arc  not  deduciblc 
from  any  positive  standard,  because  it  is  not 
known,  to  what  conformation  the  human  charac- 
ter is  most  adapted.  Different  opinions  and  cus- 
toms depend,  more  or  less,  upon  local  circum- 
stances and  education  ;  and  as  no  human  perform- 
ance is  without  a  blemish,  so  there  is  no  govern- 
ment, however  well  founded  in  the  first  instance, 
which  is  not  liable  to  he  even  uaily  tarnished  by 
corruption. 

It  was  the  opinion  of  Longinus  and  many  of 
the  ancients,  th;\t  the  arts  and  sciences  flourish- 
ed only  in  free  governments.  Of  this,  proofs 
are  very  abundant,  in  tracing  the  history  of  the 
Persians  and  Egyptians  ;  who,  in  proportion  to 
the  increas'-  of  luxury  and  opulence,  lost  gradu- 
ally the  improvements  before  attained,  and  which 
finally  were  transferred  to  Greece  ;  and  she,  in 
her  turn,  continued  to  flourish,  only  as  long  as 
her  primeval  habits  remained.  Rome  also  be- 
came the  seat  of  arts  and  learning  afterwards, 


1. 


i 


-»ai^^. 


166 

and  at  a  time,  when  she  may  be  said  to  have  been 
more  free,  probably,  than  any  nation  in  the  world. 
The  aggrandizement  of  her  wealth  and  power, 
took  place  during  a  continuance  of  the  republic. 
The  acme  of  her  greatness  was  the  favourable 
moment  for  ambition,  and  no  sooner  was  it  at- 
tained, than  the  balance  preponderated.  That 
tide  of  prosperity  which  favoured  her  industri- 
ous citizens,  amid  continual  wars  and  even  po- 
verty, ceased  to  flow,  with  the  loss  of  liberty  ;  and 
hence  was  produced  a  decay  of  learning  and  ages 
of  barbarism  throughout  Europe. 

The  same  issue  will  also  be  found  applicable 
with  regard  to  commerce,  which  has  never  flou- 
rished so  well  as  in  free  governments :  exam- 
ples of  which  may  be  traced  in  its  progress 
through  the  once  thriving  and  populous  cities  of 
Athens,  Carthage,  or  Venice ;  each  of  which  has 
in  turn  enjoyed  a  free  commerce  under  the  aus- 
pices of  government ;  and  at  the  present  day  may- 
be mentioned  London,  Hamburgh,  Antwerp,  and 
Genoa. 

The  same  may  be  said  concerning  the  attain- 
ment of  liberty,  that  we  have  seen  applicable  to 
ihe  rise  and  progress  of  arts,  learning,  and  com- 
merce. Rarely  has  any  country  been  known  to 
light  with  determination  for  liberty,  without  final 


'.-'4%l'>  -ii'.'  ■  jL^i^2^. 


■'Mii^- 


::)aimr 


"■  iifJWffiu^, 


M 


have  been 
the  world, 
ad  power, 
e  republic, 
favourable 
was  it  at- 
:ed.     That 
;r  industri- 
i  even  po- 
iberty ;  and 
ng  and  ages 


never  flou- 
nts :  exam- 
ts   progress 

us  cities  of 
f  which  has 

er  the  aus- 
|ent  day  may 

ntwerp,  and 


167 

success.     The  rig'ht  of  self-government  seems  a 
principle  implanted  in  the  very  constitution  of 
man,  by  the  hand  of   nature  herself.     It  were 
needless  to  recur  for  proofs  of  this  assertion  to 
the  history  of  ancient,  as  well  as  modern  times. 
Almost  every  nation  has  had  her  rallying  point, 
her    Thermopylx  of  liberty.     The  name  of  Tell 
will  ever  remain  dear  to  the  remembrance  of  the 
Swiss,  as  that  of  Washing'to?i^  to  the  American, 
Already  have  the  Patriots  of  our  sister  continent 
made  rapid  strides,  towards  obtaining  that  liberty 
which  belongs  to  every  nation,  and  which  com- 
prises the  light  of  self-governmeiit.     Soon  will 
they  rise  to  hail  the  sun  of  liberty,  and,  emanci- 
pated from  the  Spanish  yoke,  will  be  registered 
on  the  list  of  free  nations,  to  inherit  the   birth-' 
right  of  freedom^ — in  government, — in  laws, — 
and  in  religion. 

Croxvn  Point  and  Tico)ideroga^  are  situated 
near  the  southern  part  of  Lake  Champlain,  on  its 
banks.  The  history  of  these  places  involves 
many  interesting  particulars  relative  to  the 
French  and  Revolutionary  wars,  to  which  it  may 
not  be  amiss  to  recur.  There  have  been  some 
expenditures  applied  to  the  improvement  of  their 
fortifications,  since  those  periods  j  but  the  ruinp 
only  are  n-ow  visible. 


„;ii>*k.. 


*    i! 


i:;««B»£^. 


168 


f 


\'  . 


i! 


't  .', 


/ 


Ticonderoga  was  by  nature  advantageously  si- 
tuated for  a  fort ;  being  defended  by  rocks  and  wa- 
ter on  three  sides,  and  on  half  of  the  fourth  by 
a  swamp.  Its  name  in  the  Indian  language 
signifies  Noiay^  and  it  was  called  by  the  French 
Corillor.  A  short  history  of  this  fortress  is 
quoted  from  the  Fashionable  Tour.  "  The  point 
projects  between  the  Lake  on  one  side,  which 
here  suddenly  expands  to  the  west,  and  the  creek 
on  the  other,  which  unites  the  waters  of  Lake 
George  and  Champlain,  and  forms  its  southern 
boundary.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Lake,  in 
a  south  east  direction,  stands  Mount  Indepen- 
dence. Mount  Defiance  is  situated  across  the 
creek  a  little  south  of  the  Fort,  This  height 
was  occupied  by  the  artillery  of  General  Burgoyne 
in  1777,  when  the  Americans  were  compelled 
to  evacuate  Ticonderoga.  Thi  fortress  of  Ti- 
conderoga was  first  constructed  by  the  French  in 
1756.  In  1758  it  was  attacked  by  General  Aber- 
crombie,  who  was  repulsed  with  the  loss  of  2000 
men.  On  the  approach  of  General  Amherst,  in 
1759,  it  was  quietly  abandoned  by  the  French,  as 
was  also  Crown  Point.  It  continued  in  the  pos- 
session of  the  British  until  the  year  1775,  when 
it  was  t:iken  by  surprise  by  Col.  Allen.  On 
evacuating  the  Fort  in  1777,  General  St.  Clair 


-*Jtfi-^"4 


'S,.- 


16f 


reously  si- 
ks  and  wa- 
fourth  by 
i  language 
the  French 
fortress    is 
'  The  point 
side,  which 
id  the  creek 
;rs  of  Lake 
Lts  southern 
the  Lake,  in 
nt  Indepen- 
[  across  the 
This  height 
•al  Burgoyne 
e  compelled 
tress  of  Ti- 
le  French  in 
meral  Aber- 
oss  of  2000 
mherst,  in 
|e  French,  as 
in  the  pos- 
|l  775,  v/hen 
Allen.     On 
1  St.  Clair 


ordered  a  detachment  to  accompany  the  Ameri- 
can stores  and  baggage  to  Skeensborough,  where 
they  were  pursued   by  General  Burgoyne,  and 
from  thence  to  Fort  Ann.     At  the  latter  place 
a  smart  skirmish  ensued  between  the  two  parties, 
in  which  the    British    sustained    a  considerable 
loss.     The  main  army  retired  from  Ticonderoga 
to    Hubbardton,    where    a  party,    consisting  of 
about  1000  men,  under  Col.  Warner,  were  over- 
taken by  the  British  advanced  guard,  and  after 
a  severe  action,  abandoned  the  field  to   superior 
numbers.      From   thence   they    joined   General 
Schuyler  at  Fort  Edward, on  the  12th  July,  1777." 


*...j.ii..   *4J^x 


n 


■fc 


\ik 


ii  yf-  !•■ 


# 


1^ 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Approach  to  Whitehall — Scenery  and  Associations — Ameri- 
can Inrts — Habit  of  Drinking — Lansinburgh— Waterford — 
Cohoez  Falls — Troy — Albany. 

2272^.  Lake  Champlain  may  be  properly  said 
to  terminate  at  Mount  Independence,  from  whence 
to  Whitehall,  a  distance  of  about  thirty  miles,  it 
assumes  the  appearance  of  a  river.  On  rising  early 
this  morning,  the  boat  was  making  rapid  head- 
way through  a  narrow  part;  and  the  water  run- 
ning fast,  was  subjected  to  occasional  eddies.  Its 
beautiful  green  hue,  from  the  shade  of  trees  lining 
the  shore,  had  an  interesting  appearance  ;  and  the 
whole  scenery  is  highiv  romantic.  The  closeness 
of  the  banl.s,  and  sudden  turnings,  at  first  excit- 
ed some  apprehensions,  which  were  soon  remov- 
ed by  the  skilfulnesr.  of  our  pilot,  and  perfect 
management  of  the  steam-boat.  Ascending  higher, 
the  shore  becomes  more  rocky  and  bold  as  we 
approached  Whitehall,  where  we  arrived  at  6  a.  m. 

It  is  a  thriving  village,  rendered  important  on 


/A, 


t 


viH<*' 


172 


(  » 


I.  '< 


\ 


account  of  the  trade  of  the  lake,  which  it  com- 
mands as  far  as  St.  John's.  Vessels  of  eighty 
tons  burthen  approach  to  Whitehall  with  facility. 
Considerable  advantages  will  also  be  added,  by  a 
communication  to  be  established  from  this  place 
to  Albany,  when  the  northern  canal  is  finished. 
There  are  about  sixty  houses  and  stores,  and  five 
hundred  inhabitants.  Stages  run  every  day  in 
the  week,  by  different  routes,  to  Albany. 

The  country  near  Whitehall  is  very  hilly  and 
picturesque.  The  valley  is  closed  in  by  high  bar- 
riers, so  that  there  is  scarcely  room  left  for  the 
site  of  the  village,  and  the  stream  called  Wood 
Creek,  which  rushes  into  the  lake  over  a  small 
descent.  The  bank  to  the  left,  as  you  advance, 
rises  almost  perpendicularly  for  several  hundred 
feet,  in  regular  strata  of  grey  limestone  ;  which 
requires  a  second  glance,  to  convince  that  it  is  not 
a  wall  of  masonic  construction,  erected  at  the 
water's  edge.  The  same  character  marks  also 
the  opposite  bank,  and  the  tops  of  each  are  crown- 
ed with  the  dark  cedar  and  pine.  Detached 
blocks  of  granite  are  thickly  strewea  throughout 
the  valley,  and  among  the  houses  of  the  village. 

Finding  the  best  road  to  Albany  was  by  way 
of  Salem,  after  breakfast  a  party  of  nine  engaged 
a  stage  for  the  whole  distance,  at  the  rate  of  foiiv 


i  : 


■t^J 


vX. 


AU 


■„f 


h  it  com- 
of  eighty 
th  facility, 
dded,  by  a 
this  place 
s  finished. 
;s,  and  five 
jry  day  in 

y  hilly  and 
ly  high  bar- 
left  for  the 
lUed  Wood 
rcr  a  small 
lU  advance, 
ral  hundred 
one ;  which 
;hat  it  is  not 
cted  at  the 
marks  also 
are  crown- 
Detwiched 
throughout 
he  village. 
,vas  by  \va\ 
|ine  engaged 
ate  of  foiu 


173 

dollars  each.  This  formed  an  agreeable  associa- 
tion, and  is  something  similar  to  what  in  many 
countries  is  called  travelling  post.  For  such  as 
want  to  see  people  as  well  as  things,  and  who  lilce 
the  interchange  of  little  civilities  with  strangers, 
the  advantages  of  this  plan  are  evident ;  the  bet- 
ter half  of  the  pleasure,  is  often  derived  from 
being  seated  along  side  of  agreeable  and  intelli- 
gent companions. 

The  common  incidents  of  life  may  be  diversi- 
fied with  so  much  pleasantry  and  intelligence, 
that  an  additional  interest  arises  from  the  narra- 
tion of  a  stranger.  It  occurs  very  often  that  this 
particular  bent  has  been  cultivated,  and  is  then 
brought  out,  where  accidental  acquaintance  has 
no  other  apparent  recommendation.  Nothing 
more  conduces  to  this  kind  of  excitement,  than 
the  change  of  scenery  experienced  in  riding.  Our 
party  consisted  of  a  young  Irishman,  and  York- 
shireman,  two  Philadelphians,  and  four  New- 
Yorkers,  besides  myself.  Though  they  might 
differ  in  other  respects,  there  was  this  hnppy  coin- 
cidence among  them  all,  a  disposition  to  please. 
The  young  Irishman  was  as  remarkable  for  his 
repartee  and  flow  of  wit,  as  the  Yorkshireman 
for  his  conundrums  and  drollery.  The  trial 
for  pre-eminence  was  ably  contested,  and  ii  may 

p  2 


'^1 


il 


'"^b     ) 


is/.'; 


h 


\\   k 


U 


t 

■  'i 


1 


i 


.  .     \    I  ] 


It 


1    ■{ 


:•   f..^ 


Il:| 


1/4 

be  fairly  said  that  there  was  no  want  of  pleasan- 
try or  amusement. 

The  romantic  appearances,  with  which  the  first 
part  of  our  ride  commenced,  diminished  as  we 
proceeded  out  of  the  valley  ;  there  is  not,  how- 
ever, much  cultivation  visible,  previously  to  arriv- 
ing at  Granville.  This  town  is  pleasantly  situat- 
ed within  a  few  miles  of  the  foot  of  the  Green 
and  Bald  mountains,  which  are  a  continuation  of 
the  great  chain.  Soon  after  leaving  this  place, 
the  aspect  of  the  country  improves  very  much, 
growing  more  open,  and  farm-houses  are  more 
plentiful ;  the  road  also  is  fine,  being  a  gravel- 
led turnpike,  and  considerable  attention  is  paid  to 
keeping  it  in  good  repair.  We  proceeded  with- 
out much  to  remark,  except  general  appearances, 
till  we  passed  through  Hebron,  and  arrived  at  Sa- 
lem to  dinner.  The  latter  place  contains  a  capa- 
cious street,  and  is  pleasantly  situated  in  an  un- 
dulating country,  and  yet  sufficiently  distant  from 
the  hilly.  The  extensive  prospects  which  this 
road  affords,  added  to  the  cheerfulness  of  our 
party,  contributed  ample  sources  of  gratification, 
and  were  the  means  of  rendering  the  ride  more 
agreeable.  Betwixt  Cambridge  and  Pittstown,  we 
crossed  the  Hoosac  river,  on  a  single  arched 
wooden  bridge,  remarkable  for  being  constructed 


175 


without  band,  bolt,  or  mortise ;  and  soon  after- 
wards, the  wild  and  mountainous  heights  of  the 
great  north-east  chain  of  the  West  Point  moun- 
tains  began  to  make  their  appearance. 

The  republican  manners  and  habits  of  people 
in  the  United  States,  are  the  cause  of  both  inn- 
keepers and  servants  assuming  an  air  truly  inde- 
pendent. In  fact,  though  the  term  servant  is  very 
properly  a  distinction  given  to  the  rulers  in  a  de- 
mocracy, I  hardly  think  that  the  keeper  of  an  inn 
or  his  attendants,  would  willingly  submit  to  be 
called  so,  from  a  traveller  on  the  public  road.  It 
does  not  appear,  come  in  whatever  manner  he 
may  at  an  inn,  that  the  traveller  excites  much  sen- 
sation. On  alighting,  he  receives  a  nod  of  wel- 
come from  an  inmate  of  the  house,  and  may  then 
walk  in.  Every  accommodation  of  the  house  is 
to  be  considered  perfectly  free,  when  called  for ; 
and  it  were  better,  as  there  is  no  superabundance 
of  menials  to  anticipate  his  wants,  for  them  to  be 
made  known  as  soon  as  possible.  There  is  usually 
a  set  time  appropriated  for  meals,  to  which  he  is 
expected  to  accommodate  himself,  on  becoming  an 
inmate.  The  master  of  the  house  at  such  times, 
generally  sits  down  at  the  head  of  the  table,  for 
the  sake  of  helping  and  entertaining  the  company; 
while  the  waiters  keep  an  eye  upon  the  guests. 


':.l\ 


'■'•s  u.?,-_.t^ 


y  >, 


176 

This  mode  ot  (Ranging  company  i?  very  agreea- 
ble, unless  It  should  chance  to  bC  otherwise ;  but 
then  you  are  soon  relieved,  for  no  one  continues 
longer  than  till  his  meal  is  finished :  or,  if  you 
can  learn  to  eat  fast  enough,  it  will  be  the  better 
way  of  getting  over  the  difficulty  yourself.  The 
servants  throughout  the  country  are  both  civil 
and  obliging,  when  spoken  to  as  equals ;  but  a  step 
beyond  this  cannot  be  taken.  Their  services  are 
to  be  considered  as  belonging,  not  to  the  travel- 
ler, but  the  innkeeper ;  and  through  him,  are  to 
be  paid  for.  This  pride,  which  prevents  a  human 
being  from  selling,  what  more  properly  ought  to 
be  considered  as  a  favour  bestowed,  is  highly 
commendable,  and  consistent  with  the  natural 
feelings.  The  extremes,  in  either  case,  are  liable 
to  corruption  ;  in  the  one,  he  will  not  often  refuse 
a  compensation  offered,  for  which  he  has  no  right ; 
and  in  the  other,  will  be  led  to  expect  one,  v^here 
he  has  rendered  no  service.  There  is  one  cha- 
racter, which  all  who  know  how  to  appreciate, 
must  rcvspect ,  that  of  a  close  intimacy  between 
the  dignity  and  peculiar  duties  of  station. 

There  is  much  to  be  said  in  favour  of  this 
mode  of  living  in  large  cities,  where  a  good  or- 
dinary is  daily  provided,  and  the  requisite  atten- 
tion paid  to  the  guests.     One  remarkable  differ- 


4     ^    "^-TUjUttl 


177 


) 
( 


ence,  however,  between  the  American  and  mo6t 
foreign  inns,  is,  that  board  is  charged  in  the 
former  by  the  day  or  week,  and  in  the  others  by 
the  meal.  The  rule  is  the  same,  in  both  in- 
stances, with  respect  to  a  longer  or  shorter  con- 
tinuance of  the  boarder  at  the  house.  It  is  cer- 
tainly proper  for  the  innkeeper  to  be  able  to  know 
the  number  of  persona  for  whom  he  must  neces- 
sarily provide,  and  of  course  whether  they  dine 
at  home  or  not,  it  makes  but  little  difference  in 
the  market  bill :  but,  should  the  boarder  even  wish 
it,  there  is  no  opportunity  allowed  >f  making  a  dif- 
ferent arrangement.  To  those  who  have  lived 
in  London  or  Paria,  and  have  been  used  to  dine 
when  and  where  they  pleased,  the  plan  adopted 
in  this  country  would  not  be  thought  very  con- 
venient. 

Innkeepers  in  the  villages  are  not  unfrequently 
men  of  some  influence  ;  and  this  arises  often 
from  their  having  once  been  field-officers  of  mi- 
litia, OK  from  their  holding  farms  attached  to  their 
taverns.  Thus  the  favours  conferred  may  be 
considered  as  mutual ;  and,  at  least  in  new  coun- 
tries, preponderate  on  the  side  of  the  traveller, 
who  is  the  more  likely  to  receive  better  entertain- 
ment and  general  information.  It  will  be  found 
an  incontrovertible  rule  also  with  respect  to  the 


.  ^  -i.  ,•>  ^*.. . 


:\Jh 


^. 


e> 


<>„ 


.VJ>^.    ^^^^    ■^%, 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


V 


A 


<<, 


<Er, 


V  c?. 


s,<  -sg 


^^.r 


/- 


y 
^ 


Wri 
^ 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


•-  IIIIIM 

|50      ™"^^ 

•^  lilM 


6' 


IM 
1.8 


U    111.6 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


A 


^ 


o 


^'h'- 


o 


^^.r 


S. 


"/., 


^ 


178 


\  I 


inns  most  frequented,  that  the  charges  are  the 
most  reasonable ;  and  that  the  traveller,  whose 
deportment  is  civil  and  unassuming,  will  be  like- 
ly to  be  better  served,  than  one  who  is  rude  and 
over-bearing :  the  great  art  is  to  accommodate 
to  the  rules,  by  making'  one's  self  at  home.  Every 
thing  reasonably  to  be  desired  may  be  obtained 
by  a  proper  application,  while  at  the  same  time 
the  landlord  is  not  to  be  considered  as  perform- 
ing the  office  of  a  waiter ;  and  should  his  daugh- 
ters be  inclined  to  assist  at  the  tea  or  breakfast 
table,  there  will  be  seen  a  becoming  demeanour, 
capable  of  securing  respect  even  in  nn  hnmble 
station.  The  principle  is  a  correct  one,  and  ap- 
plies to  the  peculiar  formation  of  character  at- 
tached to  the  American  citizen ;  and  which 
enables  every  one,  independently  of  the  occupa- 
tion, to  maintain  an  equal  standing. 

One  of  the  peculiar  circumstances  to  be  la- 
mented, about  our  country  taverns,  is  the  predo- 
minant practice  of  drinking,  to  which  they  unfor- 
tunately invite  the  unwary  lounger.  It  is  not 
unusual  to  see,  what  is  called  the  public  or  bar- 
room, filled  with  a  parcel  of  men,  who  appear  to 
have  no  other  employment  than  that  of  idle  talk, 
smoking,  or  drinking.  These  evils  seldom  fail 
to  be  the  precursors  of  more  abominable  ones  , 


-.-.-*-.,•  .-il.'.-.*.   ,  .<*Vl| 


Its 


and  their  excess,  if  not  avoided,  often  produces 
inevitable  misery  and  ruin. 

On  beholding  these  hovels,  purporting  to  afford 
entertainment  for  man  and  horse,  shocking  indeed 
is  the  impression  often  derived:  it  was  almost  night, 
when  our  stage  stopped  at  a  house  in  the  vicinity 
of  which  there  had  been  a  militia-training ;  and 
our  observations  were  such  as  may  have  been 
expected  to  proceed  from  a  last  scene  of  this 
nature.     It  is  however  customary  at  other  times, 
for  many  of  the  youth,  as  well  as  middle-aged, 
to  assemble  from  the  surrounding  country  ;  either 
from  the  want  of  employment,  the  love  of  com- 
pany, or  the  gratification  of  -\  boastful  disprsi- 
tion.     At  first  the  extent  of  the  evil  to  which 
they  are  exposed  is  not  easily  discoverable.     For 
the  sake  of  hearing  the  news  they  resort  to  the 
tavern,  and  having  little  inclination  to  drink,  of 
course  nothing  immediately  is  called  for.     This 
soon  has  the  appearance   of    making  them  un- 
welcome guests  ;   and  thus  an  inducement  arises 
for  them  gradually  to  conform  to  the  force  of 
example.     From  calling  for  one,  the  number  of 
small-glasses  soon  is  increased  to  more,  till  unfor- 
tunately too  late,  it  becomes  a  settled  habit,  and 
the  evil  is  not  easily  to  be  remedied. 
The  misfortune  in  this  country  is  augmented 


1^ 


^  ^.  »B  >.  ^.  *y.  M  ■»  V*  ^  _  >*f/*?'j 


'IfMRp.Mi-^W' 


180 


■  K  -  *  it : ' 

Ki 

by  the  use   of  distilled,  instead  of   fermented 
liquors  ;  the  latter  of  which  is  more  used  in  the 
old   countries ;  where  wine,  cider,   or  beer   is 
the  general  substitute  for  spirits  :  the  eflfect  on 
the  constitution  is  certainly  not  of  so  deleterious 
a  nature,  nor  the  excess  of  drinking  so  common, 
on  this  account ;  and  it  does  not  happen  in  man)- 
instances,  that  a  person  is  as  incapable  of  judg- 
'  ing  the  *'  quantum  sufficit^"*  or  likely  to  feel  as 
insatiable  a  thirst,  who  confines  himself  in  this 
particular.     But   the   evil  cannot  be  remedied, 
until  a  substitute  can  be  suggested,  for  the  inor- 
dinate use  of  distilled  liquor,  capable  of  prevent- 
ing the  practice  now  existing  among  the  settlers  ; 
by  means  of  which  this  commodity  is  always  to 
be  obtained  cheaper,  perhaps,  than  any  other  in 
our  xvestern  country.     I  do  not  think  it  probable 
that  any  thing  less  than  a  direct  prohibition  by 
law,  would  be  likely  to  remove  the  evil.     Im- 
ported spirits  too,  bear  a  trifling  proportion  to 
the  price  of  labour,  and  the  duties  upon  them  are 
less   than   in  other  countries  ;    many    of  which 
might  be  mentioned,  where  it  would  not  be  fea- 
sible for  a  labouring  man  to  become  inebriated, 
as  often  as  once  a  week  ;  for  the  aggregate  amount 
of  his  earnings  during  that  period. 

2Zrd,    At  Lansinburgh,  we  arose  at  a  ver> 


181 


fermented 
used  in  the 
or  beer   is 
e  effect  on 
deleterious 
0  common, 
en  in  many 
lie  of  judg- 
to  feel  as 
self  in  this 
;  remedied, 
or  the  inor- 
of  prevent- 
the  settlers  ; 
IS  always  to 
ly   other  in 

it  probable 
(hibition  by 

evil.     Im- 
oportion  to 

in  them  are 

of  which 

|not  be  fea- 

inebriated, 

;ate  amount 

at  a  verv 


early  hour,  and  a  ride  on  horseback  being  pro- 
posed, my  two  companions  and  I  crossed  the 
bridge  over  the  Hudson  to  the  town  of  Water- 
ford.  This  place  has  a  prospect  of  deriving 
great  advantages  from  the  northern  canal,  which 
is  intended  to  terminate  here. 

At  the  distance  of  about  a  mile  up  the  Mo- 
hawk river  is   the    Cohoez   Falls'.     The   waters, 
before  uniting  with  those  of  the  Hudson,  preci- 
pitate themselves  over  a  perpendicular  pile  of 
solid  rocks  : — down  the  banks  rivulets  are   seen 
streaming.     The  descent  of  the  water  has   been 
variously  stated,  but  perhaps  sixty  feet  is  nearest 
the  mark.     Nothing  in  the  surrounding  scenery 
particularly  arrests  the  attention,  and   thus   the 
great  breadth  t?  the   Falls   may  be   considered 
the  true  source  of  their  grandeur.     A  constant 
spray  rises,  and  fills  the  atmosphere   around  for 
some  distance  ;  resembling  in  its   descent  again 
fine  rain.     Our  time  for  dwelling  on  this  delight- 
ful   scene  being  but    short,  we   quitted   it  with 
regret.     On  our  return  I  could  not  help  admir- 
ing the  beauty  of  the   views,  diversified    with 
hill  and  dale  ;  while  the  town  of  Waterford  casts 
a  charm  over  the  alluvial  plain,  which  is  water- 
ed by  the  gently  flowing  streams. 

The  two  towns  of  Lansingburgh  and  Waterford 


tUf^-^^- 


Il   \': 


r  ■■ 


182 

are  pleasantly  situated  on  the  opposite  sides  of 
the  Hudson  at  its  junction  with  the  Mohawk 
liver.  They  both  enjoy  the  advantages  of  sloop 
navigation  ;  but  the  former  seems  to  be  conced- 
ing the  palm,  though  at  present  possessing  about 
double  the  number  of  inhabitants.  The  houses 
of  Lansingburgh  are  mostly  ranged  on  a  single 
street  running  parallel  with  the  river,  and  do 
not  indicate  a  high  state  of  prosperity. 

Immediately  after  breakfast,  we  departed  again 
in  the  stage  for  Albany.  At  the  distance  of 
three  miles  is  the  intervening  citi/  of  Troy.  It 
is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  river,  and  bounded 
eastward  by  a  range  of  hills,  which  rise  abruptly 
out  of  an  alluvial  plain.  The  streets  run  north 
and  south,  and  at  right  angles,  except  at  the 
north  end  of  the  city,  where  they  converge. 
The  buildings  are  chiefly  of  frame,  and  ♦shaded 
by  trees  on  each  side  of  the  streets,  which  are 
gravelled  instead  of  paved.  There  is  established 
here  a  Female  Seminary  and  Lyceum,  besides 
three  places  of  pul)lic  worship,  a  court-house  and 
a  gaol.     The  population  is  about  seven  thousand. 

We  crossed  the  river  here  (in  a  boat)  to  IVa- 
terjieet,  an  eld  settlement  (six  miles  from  Alba- 
ny)  remarkable  for  an  Arsenal.     The    ground 


;/  ,  '»■ 


* 


■*j^j>i.i-i  .-,ii^L»s'-.rf; 


183 


^ 


I  sides  oi' 
Mohawk 
s  of  sloop 
be  conced- 
sing  about 
'he  houses 
n  a  single 
er,  and  do 

• 

arted  again 
distance  of 
f  Troy.     It 
»d  bounded 
ise  abruptly 
run  north 
cept  at  the 
converge, 
ind  ♦shaded 
which  are 
established 
am,  besides 
t-house  and 
n  thousand. 
)at)  to   Wa- 
from  Alba- 
'he    ground 


between  this  and  Albany  is  tolerably  good,  and 
well  cuhivated,  and  the  riue  a  {.leasant  one. 

The  city  of  Albany  (one  hundred   and  sixty 
miles  up  the  Hudson)  still  holds  the  title  of  capi- 
tal of  the  state,  though  so  far  exceeded  in  point 
of    commerce    and   population,    by   the    city   of 
New- York.     Thither,  however,  is  not  the  direc- 
tion for  the  seat  of  government  to  travel ;  but 
after  the  example  of  the  States,  it  will   probably 
proceed  westwardly,  and  obtain  a  central  loca- 
tion.    There  is  an  apparent  anticipation  of  her 
falling  honours  manifested,  in  the  general  appear- 
ance of  the  town.     Most  of  the  streets  are  irre- 
gular, as  well  as  narrow ;  and  although  its  situa- 
tion is  such  as  to  render  cleanliness  easily  at- 
tainable, it  does  not  appear  that  this  is  much  at- 
tended to.     The   antique   shape   of  the  private 
dwellings  is  very  remarkable,  and  gives  the  Euro- 
pean  traveller  an    idea  of  the    original  settlers, 
from  a  resemblance  to  those  in  some  of  the  towns 
in  Holland.     The  Capitol  is  situated  on  an  eleva- 
tion of  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  river,  at  the  top  of  State-street,  and 
contains    the  legislative  halls   and  other  public 
apartments.     The  present  population  amounts  to 
twelve    thousand  j    and    there    is    a   degree    of 
industry   and    commerce    sufficient    to    indicate 


.^..••«»,«..,..-.^..~..^,.,,,^.vi. — ,^  If*.:  u^,^,.,,^,^^^.      ,|„„ mifmffiyr  ^g,,^^^^,  nrr ^-  -  ■<*  * — '■  ■ 


\ 


.-V 


i''l      ' 


\f:. 


184 

its  trade.  In  consequence  of  the  great  advan- 
tages derived  from  water  communication,  it 
seems  always  to  have  been  a  place  for  domestic 
and  foreign  deposits,  as  well  as  a  general  resort 
for  travellers.  From  hence  conveyances  may  be 
obtained  for  Saratoga,  Montreal,  Boston,  Nia- 
gara, &c. 


l|^^'^ 


;T 


;at  advan- 
cation,  it 
•  domestic 
eral  resort 
:es  may  be 
Eton,  Nia- 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


Retrospect — The  Springs— Etiquette — Introductions — So- 
ciety of  Ladies — Fashionable  Circles — Company— Good 
Breeding. 


It  is  a  very  probable  presumption  that  the 
reader  may  inquire,  why  did  not  the  present 
Tourist,  on  his  way  to  or  from  Albany,  pay  a 
visit  to  Ballston  and  Saratoga?  For  this  devia- 
tion a  very  obvious  reason  may  be  assigned  :  that, 
"  different  circumstances  alter  cases."  For  the 
information  of  those  who  may  wish  to  make  this 
a  fashionable  route,  it  will  not  be  amiss  to  sub- 
join a  few  remarks,  concerning  the  prevairvr; 
manners  and  customs  of  these  places.  In  doin^j 
which,  the  writer  cannot  pass  the  subject  unno- 
ticed, as  presented  to  his  mind  from  a  retrospec- 
tive glance  at  some  of  the  scenes,  which  formerly 
presented  themselves,  during  a  short  residence  at 
these  fashionable  places  of  resort. 

A  short  continuance  at  the  Springs  is  sufficient 
to  convince  a  visiter  of  the  healthfulness  of  the 

0.2 


i 


% 


A\ 


j.^r^i.i-JTl''... 


..ate;  .i.*i-..«,^ 


\ 


186 


) 


situation,  and  delightful  summer  temperature. 
That  happy  mixture  of  heat  and  cold  is  there  ex- 
perienced, which  is  so  grateful  to  the  constitution 
during  the  excessively  warm  season,  and  pro- 
duces an  effect  quite  the  reverse  of  relaxation. 
The  system  often  requires  some  change  of  this 
kind,  to  which  Ballston  and  Saratoga  conspire  in 
a  considerable  degree,  and  are  so  justly  celebrat- 
ed. They  may  be  considered  as  the  desideratum^ 
or  suitable  gradation  of  the  American  clinate, 
and  they  will,  no  doubt,  continue  to  be  a  summer 
resort  on  this  account. 

The  fashionable  hotels  at  present  are  the  Con- 
gress-Hall and  Pavilion  at  the  one  place,  and 
Sans  Souci  at  the  other ;  and  dressing  is  an  im- 
portant engagement  at  both.  Three  times  a  day 
it  is  usual  to  attend  to  this  etiquette,  and  not  to 
change,  so  often,  would  be  considered  quite  un- 
becoming. At  breakfast,  the  promenade  dress  or 
dishabille  is  worn  ;  at  dinner,  a  greater  display 
and  indulgence  of  Amcy  is  expected  ;  and  in  the 
evening,  a  full  dress  for  the  ball.  After  meals, 
introduce  the  ladies  to  the  drawing-room  ; — assist 
them  gracefully  through  the  sideling  crowd  ; — 
carry  the  playful  fan  ; — and  make  use  of  all  the 
eloquence,  which  good  sense  and  civility  are 
capable   of  suggesting,  for  their  entertainment. 


f0' 


;mperature. 
is  there  ex- 
constitution 
1,  and  pro- 
•  relaxation, 
ange  of  this 
I  conspire  in 
itly  celebrat- 
dcsideratum, 
can  clinate, 
be  a  summer 

are  the  Con- 
e  place,  and 
ing  is  an  im- 
;  times  a  day 
e,  and  not  to 
red  quite  un- 
nade  dress  or 
•eater  display 
1 ;  and  in  the 
After  meals, 
com  ; — assist 
ng  crowd  ;— 
use  of  all  the 
civility   are 
ntertaiiiment. 


187 

Those  who  \Vould  become  candidates  in  the  heau 
monde^  must  at  least  endeavour  to  deserve,  before 
they  can  merit  the  esteem  of  the  Fair. 

It  requires  a  very  particular  acquaintance  with 
the  person  called  upon  for  an  introduction  to  an- 
other, especially  to  a  Lady.  This  seems  to  be  an 
established  rule  or  etiquette,  in  modern  manners  ; 
so  much  so,  that  its  observance  is  indispensable ; 
and  the  person  not  so  introduced,  that  the  one 
bringing  him  forward,  can  satisfactorily  explain 
his  standing,  will  appear  under  some  embarrass- 
ments before  the  company.  A  stranger  will  al- 
ways excite  inquisitiveness,  and  must  eventually 
be  esteemed,  in  the  same  point  of  view,  as  his 
friend.  There  are  occurrences  amongst  men, 
where  the  form  of  introduction  may  be  dispensed 
with ;  as  in  travelling,  for  instance,  it  would  be 
irksome,  if  not  impracticable;  but  an  ingenuous 
complaisance  is  then  useful  to  both  parties,  mu- 
tual information  and  assistance  only  being  re- 
quired :  but,  on  the  contrary,  we  should  be  very 
little  inclined  to  esteem  a  female,  whose  too  con- 
ciliatory manners  had  secured  our  acquaintance, 
without  the  etiquette  of  an  introduction ;  and 
who,  we  could  not  i)ut  suppose,  might  in  the 
same  way  have  become  acquainted  with  any  one 


t)i 


/ 


:t'-i 


!%jt 


188 

else  ;  and  thus  wc  would,  perhaps,  be  inclined  to 
consider  as  company  too  easily  attainable. 

One  particular  advantage  in  the  society  of  vir- 
tuous females  is,  that  it  has  an  influence  over  a 
man's  whole  conduct ;  to  make  him  particular,  as 
to  his  dress,— as  to  the  company  he  keeps, — as  to 
drinking,  smoking,  or  any  kind  of  dissipation. 
Any  one  will  eventually  discontinue  thesCy  as  he 
continues  to  keep  the  company  of  ladies  ;  they  are 
the  constant  preservatives  of  morality,  and  capa- 
citate us  for  more  stedfastly  enduring  the  active 
walks  of  life. 

The  greatest  observance  of  politeness  must  be 
kept  up  in  the  fashionable  circles.  The  ladies 
seem  to  require  every  attention  and  complaisance, 
to  secure  their  regard.  If  their  views  and  wishes 
can  be  anticipated  by  some  conciliatory  aid,  it 
will  be  well  for  the  beau  to  do  so.  It  were  better 
to  admire  the  reigning  beauties,  for  these,  as  well 
as  dress,  go  by  fashion  ;  and  one  would  be  con- 
sidered outre  and  void  of  taste,  not  to  do  as 
others  do.  The  person  best  qualified  to  maintain 
a  standing  among  the  higher  circles,  must  be  one 
who  is  possessed  of  very  prominent  qualifications ; 
such  as  arc  derived  from  either  fame,  appearance, 
or  fortune  ;  whichever  is  most  prevalent,  will  ex- 
alt the  highest.     Indeed  there  is  no  way  of  main- 


::i!i?^i.-v'.- 


'..   ■y»^:-'-«5!i»!-,:fvni.i,i'_ 


189 


wining  the  esteem  of  fashionables,  without  hav- 
ing some  share  of  what  the  world  admires  ;  and 
it  is  equally  true  and  lamentable,  that  when  this  is 
lost,  we  are  often  suffered  to  fall  by  our  best  es- 
teemed friends. 

"  L'homme  sc  fait  connoltre  par  la  compagnie 
qu'il  frequente,"  is  a  maxim  admitted  by  all ;  and 
that  we  should  be  attentive  to  this  particular  in 
early  life,  is  of  the  utmost  importance  ;  as  it  tends 
to  regulate  the  future  path  or  line  of  demarcation, 
for  us  to  follow.  To  cultivate  and  be  seen  in  the 
company  of  respectable  people,  will  establish  a 
standing ;  whereas  the  contrary  will  not  fail  to 
lessen  us  in  public  estimation.  The  same  remark 
is  applicable  to  men  of  science,  who  resort  to  one 
another's  company  for  the  purpose  of  improve- 
ment i  an  uninformed  man  will  find  no  pleasure  in 
being  among  such  j  as  also,  one  whose  ideas  never 
soared  above  the  pursuit  of  riches  or  business ; 
nor  would  he  be  admitted  as  an  associate :  they 
would  be  no  company  the  one  for  the  other. 

I  do  not  mean  to  imply  by  the  above,  that  mode 
of  courting  the  company  of  great  people,  so  fre- 
quently observable  in  little  minds ;  it  never  ap- 
pears without  creating  contempt.  I  admit  that 
to  such,  good  humour  and  the  height  of  complai- 
sance is  due  ;  but  without  seeming  to  seek  for  op- 


i 


itV 'ifk- ^*«  *«Y -^   -^ 


190 


m  I 


»■> 


portunity.  If  the  worthy  and  sensible,  arc  not 
distinguished  from  the  arrogant,  there  will  even 
then  be  a  mortification,  proceeding  from  a  cool 
reception ;  and  not  unfrequently  the  result  will  be, 
retiring  with  a  bad  grace. 

The  best  company  which  we  can  keep,  is  such 
as  is  of  known  respectability,  of  a  standing  in  life 
nearly  similar  to  our  own,  and  the  most  commu- 
nicutive.  The  most  lively,  entertaining,  and  im- 
pressive information  of  the  human  character,  is, 
perhaps,  derived  froir.  social  converse ;  and  in  this 
respect  therefore  it  will  most  likely  be  sought  for 
on  virtuous  principles;  and,  at  the  same  time, 
conferring  freely,  will  meet  with  corresponding 
dispositions,  and  eventually  prove  a  real  source 
of  blessing.  An  identity  of  manners  and  similar 
way  of  thinking  is  very  essential  to  make  our 
company  agreeable. 

As  on  the  one  hand,  too  much  reservedness  and 
retiring  modesty,  effectually  prevent  all  sociality 
or  approach  towards  acquaintance ;  so  particular 
intimacies  are  formed,  on  the  other  hand,  by 
agreeable  manners,  good  education,  and  other 
qualifications;  all  of  which  conspire  to  render  a 
man  agreeable  in  company.  When  these  concur 
there  is  frequently  a  dispensation  of  forms  and 
reserve  altogether,  and  respectful  behaviour  bc- 


.^^. » ..iik  .- 


'V  "^ 


■^^i.v-'" 


191 


le,  arc  not 
i  will  even 
from  a  cool 
suit  will  be, 

eep,  is  such 
nding  in  life 
Lost  commu- 
ing,  and  im- 
character,  is, 
5 ;  and  in  this 
)e  sought  for 
;  same  time, 
orresponding 
a  real  source 
-s  and  similar 
to  make  our 

srvedness  and 
t  all  sociality 
so  particular 
her  hand,  by 
)n,  and  other 
re  to  render  a 
,  these  concur 
of  forms  and 
behaviour  be- 


comes the  criterion  whereby  the  gentleman  is  dis- 
tinguished. As  in  the  one  conferring,  so  in  the 
receiver,  is  the  pleasure  excited,  and  is  insepara- 
bly attached  to  both.  Where  does  civility,  oblij^- 
ingness,  or  candour  display  itself,  without  meet- 
ing with  a  favourable  reception  ?  In  being  uni- 
versally approved  of,  they  do  more  than  any  other 
recommendation  in  prepossessing  company,  and 
insuring  good  treatment. 

The  first  impressions  formed  of  any  one  are 
not  easily  removed.     Circumspection  of  conduct, 
therefore,  is  requisite  at  all  times ;   as  we  know 
not  who  is  the  observer.    We  may  readily  imagine 
why  general  deportment  is  of  so  much  consc- 
quenc    ;  as  it  bespeaks  good  qualifications,  and 
rivets  the  judgments  of  others,  by  establishing  a 
basis,  that  does   not  often   change;   and   conse- 
quently, as  it  becomes  habitual,  is  more  easily 
maintained.     Good-breeding,  therefore,  is  an  in- 
dispensable requisite  of  character;  nothing,  more 
than  this,  produces  the   good  will  of  associates, 
or  renders  a  person  more  agreeable  in  company. 
It  ought  never  to  be  neglected,  being  of  such 
inestimable    importance.      A   well-bred   person, 
though  poor,  will  always  secure  attention  and  in- 
terest, if  he  does  not  take  the  ascendency  ;  at  any 
rate,  he  will  command  respect.     Good-breeding 


■'  1 


'  V  'I 


if* 


r-    ' 


192 


i\ 


designates  the  gentleman;  so  much  so,  that  he 
who  is  not  possessed  of  it,  is  sure  to  be  esteemed 
in  a  contrary  point  of  view;  notwithstanding 
other  qualifications.  The  rule  is  universal,  and 
acts  in  all  countries  as  a  "  perpetual  letter  of  re- 
commejidationy 

It  consists  in  such  an  unassuming  and  candid 
expression  of  countenance,  such  social  disposition 
and  generosity  of  Jcportiuent,  as  will  at  any  time 
sacrifice  to  the  conripany  pn^sent,  a  certain  por- 
tion of  individual  convenience.  No  loss  is  sus- 
tained ultimately  in  so  doing,  by  reason  of  the  in- 
crease of  pleasure  derived  from  seeing  others 
gratified.  This  conduct  alone  produces  a  happy 
sensation  ;  but  then  another  arises,  which  is  that 
of  receiving  a  like  return  of  favours.  They  who 
accept,  must  at  any  rate  sustain  the  weight  of  an 
obligation,  which  costs  but  little  to  the  giver. 
In  company  it  is  expected  that  we  should  contri- 
bute to  the  entertainment  of  those  around  us  ; 
for  the  purpose  of  being  sociable  we  assemble, 
and  it  were  better  never  appear,  than  appear  ab- 
sent. 

A  cheerful  countenance  and  deportment  there- 
fore is  commendable  for  every  person  to  sustain, 
who  wishes  to  be  respected,  and  to  pass  through 
the  world  without  censure.     It  produces  a  useful 


:*^. 
^*'j 


193 


0,  that  he 
e  esteemed 
thstanding 
versal,  and 
ftter  of  re- 
Mid  candid 
disposition 
at  any  time 
:ertain  por- 
,  loss  is  sus- 
n  of  the  in- 
;eing  others 
ices  a  happy 
irhich  is  that 
They  who 
V eight  of  an 
3  the  giver, 
ould  contri- 
around  us  ; 
/e  assemble, 
n  appear  ab- 


confidence  in  the  individual  who  possesses  it, 
and  at  the  same  time  renders  him  less  liable  to 
imposition.  A  person  of  this  pleasing  cast  is 
so  characterized,  that  I  may  almost  say,  he  is 
regarded  without  the  semblance  of  reproach,  and 
often  glides  down  the  current  of  life  calm  and 
unmolested ;  while  he  escapes  the  dark  storms  of 
folly  and  wickedness,  which  seem  to  gather,  only 
to  break  at  a  distance.  His  happiness  is  en- 
hanced by  raising  the  cheerfuj-  smile,  in  those 
around  him ;  by  which  his  own  good  qualities 
are  dilated :  and  nothing  can  be  more  consoling 
than  the  reciprocal  sensation  derived  from  com- 
municating delight. 


ment  there- 
n  to  sustain, 
)ass  through 
aces  a  useful 


■     K 


■4 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Passage  from  Albany  to  New-York :    Portrait  Painter  :    Mt 
jor  :  Lieutenant:  Minister:  "Visitations  of  Providence. 


^    t 


Once   more    I    found   myself  on   board    the 
steam-boat  bound  from   Albany  to   New-York, 
among   a  crowd   of    passengers.     The  buzzing 
noise  and  bustle  of  such  an  assemblage  does  not 
comport  with  the  disposition,  or  way  of  thinking, 
which  many  persons   would  wish  to  indulge  in ; 
as  it  is  no  easy  matter,  on  such  occasions,  to  ob- 
tain that  composure,  which  often  proceeds  from 
retirement:   the  best  mode,  therefore,  of  passing 
time,  is,  perhaps,  to  participate  in  the  occurring 
amusements ;  one  may  enjoy  in  this  way,  at  least, 
a  passive  pleasure  by  contributing  to  that  of  others. 
The  task  is  not  so  difficult  as  might  be  imagin- 
ed ;  consisting  not  so  much  in  taking  an  active 
part,  as  in  paying  attention,  to  what  is  going  on. 
It  will  soon  be  perceived  that  some   few  Choice 
Spirits^  are  destined  to  be   contributors,   to  the 
general  entertainment. 


)    "1 


f  ■-■* 


/  If  i 


,1,,-, 


'  »<f'—   •-  ^ 


.  'V  ' 


\ 


196 


y.    < 


1* 


The  company  being  variously  made  up,  i.  e, 
a  wise,  witty,  and  comical  collection,  there  ap- 
peared every  indication  of  an  agreeable  passage, 
and  numerous  sources  of  amusement.  A  dispo- 
sition for  hilarity  on  such  occasions  is  a  princi- 
pal ingredient,  and  this  seemed  to  have  diffused 
itself  throughout,  not  so  much  for  the  sake  of 
obliging,  as  to  qualify,  or  be  in  readiness  for 
what  was  about  to  take  place. 

Some  were  walking  to  and  fro ; — some  were 
reading  ; — in  one  part  of  the  cabin  was  a  Por- 
trait Painter,  who  seemed  to  take  considerable 
pains  in  describing  the  advantages  of  his  occu- 
pation. He  explained  several  of  the  arcana  re- 
lative thereto,  by  which  the  aitcntion  of  a  num- 
ber of  the  passengers  was  drawn  around  him. 
Among  the  rest  he  took  my  fancy,  it  being  a 
subject  of  that  interesting  nature  which  always 
pleases.  It  could  not  be  supposed,  in  the  present 
instance,  that  his  party  had  much  pretension  to 
a  knowledge  of  the  art  of  painting  ;  but  there  is 
something  natural  in  listening,  when  instruction 
can  be  derived,  and  particularly  in  the  case  of  a 
person  speaking  on  such  subjects.  Upon  a  ques- 
tion being  now  and  then  put  to  him,  the  man 
would  descant  at  full  length.  It  is  frequently 
observed  that  one  who  is  spoken   to  concerning 


197 


ide  up,  i.  e. 
I,  there  ap- 
ale  passage, 
.     A  dispo- 
is  a  princi- 
i\e  diffused 
the  sake  of 
sadiness   for 

.some  were 
was  a  Por- 
considerable 
of  his  occu- 
he  arcana  re- 
in of  a  num- 
around  him. 
Y^  it  being  a 
ftrhich  always 
in  the  present 
pretension  to 
but  there  is 
n  instruction 
the  case  of  a 
Upon  a  ques- 
lim,  the  man 
is  frequently 
to  concerning 


matters  of  his  own  business  is  gratified  by  talk- 
ing, and  seems  flattered  with  attention  ;  by  which 
means  we  gain  his  confidence,  and  he  bestows 
his  remarks  freely.  The  painter  continued  his 
discourse  concerning  the  beauties  of  his  art,  for 
some  time  ;  among  the  rest,  he  described  a 
method  of  drawing  landscapes,  by  means  of  a 
ring  placed  on  the  arm  ;  and  thus,  with  a  long 
pencil,  was  enabled  to  sketch  the  objects  at  a  dis- 
tance, and  magnify  or  diminish  them  at  pleasure. 
About  this  time  there  seemed  to  be  another  of 
Fame's  pupils^  in  an  opposite  corner,  striking  up 
his  pipes  concerning  the  military  school.  He 
was  no  less  a  character  than  a  Major  in  the 
Army,  who  took  care  to  have  his  share  of  the 
conversation,  and  was  relating  some  of  the  most 
wonderful  events,  that  had  happened  on  our 
frontiers  during  the  last  war  ;  and  which  till  now, 
few  persons  had  even  heard  of.  While  the  Painter 
was  fast  losing  his  audience,  the  Major  seemed  to 
gain  ground,  and  with  it  courage.  We  had  now 
presented  to  view,  not  a  sketch  on  canvass,  but 
the  account  of  apparently  one  who  had  been  ac- 
tively engaged  in  marches  and  counter-marches, 
in  storming  towns  and  forts,  in  divers  sieges  and 
battles.  All  the  hardships  of  a  military  life 
were  perfectly  .familiar  to  our  hero,  and  indeed 

R  2 


VI  !| 


('  1 


•/ 


../ 


198 


w.<<- 


Si'.; 


it  need  not  be  doubted  from  his  appearance,  for 
he  was  then  afflicted  with  an  asthma,  and  other- 
wise labouring  under  the  infirmities  of  ill  health. 
The  poor  man  was  really  unfortunate,  if  he  had 
obtained  all  these  afflictions  in  the  service  of  his 
country  ;  for  now  he  would  be  quite  unqualified 
for  any  duty,  beyond  the  walks  of  private  life. 

All  the  time  that  the  Major  had  been  talking, 
I  could  not  help  remarking  the  dispassionate 
coolness  and  modesty  of  a  by-stander,  who  was 
listening  to  the  recital  of  his  story  ;  though  at 
the  same  time,  exhibiting  no  signs  of  interest  or 
knowledge  of  what  had  been  said.  I  knew  him 
to  be  a  Lieutenant  in  the  United  States  Navy, 
who,  during  the  last  war,  had  been  captured  in 
one  of  the  American  frigates  ;  besides  being 
present  at  the  sinking  or  capture  of  three  ships 
of  the  enemy.  No  person  on  hoard  the  steam- 
boat seemed  to  be  acquainted  with  him,  nor 
could  any  have  known  him  from  appearance,  for 
his  dress  was  black,  and  he  had  no  cockade  or 
aide  arms,  to  distinguish  the  officer.  If  ever  a 
striking  difference  manifested  itself  between  two 
officers,  it  certainly  did  in  these :  the  one  unas- 
suming, the  other  boastful ; — the  one  reserving 
his  valour,  as  a  precious  commodity,  for  a  suita- 
ble occasion,  and  determining  not  to  let  it  eva- 


w. 


1^ 


>.«sr- 


199 

porate  like  smoke  ;  the  other,  like  a  town-crier, 
ringing  it  about,  or  even  resorting  to  the  gro- 
veling expedient  of  being  his  own  trumpeter. 
Taking  the  first  opportunity  in  my  power,  I 
merely  whispered  who  the  Lieutenant  was :  the 
company  were  all  surprised  ;  the  secret  soon 
passed  round ;  and  almost  immediately  after- 
wards the  story  of  the  Maj^r  came  to  a  conclu- 
sion. 

Turning  round  I  discovered  in  another  part  of 
the  cabin  a  minister  of  the  Gospel,  who  was  en- 
gaged in  writing.  From  the  composure  with 
which  he  was  meditating  on  the  subject,  not- 
withstanding the  various  scenes  around  him 
which  attracted  attention,  I  could  not  help  think- 
ing on  the  power  of  habit,  that  thus  could  enable 
him  to  confine  his  ideas.  It  appeared  to  be  a 
sermon  which  engaged  his  attention,  and  he  was 
so  wholly  engrossed  with  the  subject,  as  not  to 
take  the  least  notice  of  any  thing  else  which  was 
passing. 

I  began  now  to  think  seriously  concerning  the 
visitations  of  Providence.  It  is  certainly  a  mat- 
ter of  the  highest  importance  to  mankind,  to 
know  that  those  manifestations  of  divine  good- 
ness, which  are  very  often  attended  with  afflic- 
tion, have  an  eventual  tendency  to  produce  a  last- 


r 


200 


■H 


!*.<. 


'  •/. 


Va. 


ing  good.  The  happiness  of  mankind  is  brought 
about  under  the  hands  of  Almighty  Providence, 
by  means  imperceptible  unto  themselves,  and  in 
things  which  even  appear  to  be  hurtful.  To 
draw  the  attention  to  this  particular,  is  a  judi- 
cious and  highly  important  consideration  ;  inas> 
much  as  it  resolves  an  important  point,  on  which 
much  of  the  tranquillity  of  this  state  of  existence 
depends.  All  may  be  said  to  be,  more  or  less, 
subject  to  these  visitations,  when  least  expected. 
The  particular  city  which  now  appears  to  be  in- 
fected with  disease  and  sore  calamity,  has  hither- 
to been  favoured  by  a  tide  of  prosperity.  We 
did  not  receive  an  intimation  of  this  circum- 
stance till  our  arrival  at  Montreal,  where,  upon 
perusing  a  newspaper,  the  alarming  spread  of  the 
Yellow  Fever  in  the  city  of  New-York  was  but 
too  apparent.  Like  most  other  incidents  in  this 
life,  misfortune  becomes  familiar  when  repeat- 
ed ;  and  the  evil  day  of  consideration,  which 
might  afford  a  lesson  of  instruction,  is  too  often 
put  off:  and  on  the  other  hand,  considering  our- 
selves secure,  when  unattacked  by  evils,  we  make 
no  provision,  till  they  present  themselves  upon 
the  very  threshold  of  our  doors. 

We  were  now  approaching  the  scene  of  alarm ; 
every  enquiry   which  had  for  some    days  past 


301 


been  made  at  different  stopping  places,  on  the 
road,  confirmed  the  original  reports.  These  were 
no  longer  to  be  considered  as  the  idle  winds 
to  be  rejected,  but  as  the  messengers  announcing 
lamentable  disease  and  misfortune.  Perhaps 
they  might  be  exaggerated  ;  for  evil  report  flies 
with  rapid  wings,  outstripping  the  good  }  this 
idea  was  only  the  indulgence  of  fancy ;  too  soon 
were  we  wofully  convinced  of  the  contrary. 
The  steam-boat  passed  us  from  the  afflicted  city, 
and  by  a  statement  which  was  sent  on  board,  it 
appeared  that  there  was  every  ground  for  believ- 
ing that  the  fever  was  still  growing  worse  ;  that 
the  infected  distrirt  had  extended  considerably  ; 
that  the  people  were  leaving  the  city  in  every 
direction  ;  that  all  business  was  suspended,  and 
banks  removed.  To  us  who  had  been  travelling 
further  than  some  of  the  other  passengers,  the 
alarm  was  greater ;  especially  of  those  persons 
who  resided  in  New- York  ;  others  who  had  left 
their  families  but  a  few  days  previous,  and  were 
now  returning,  were  still  conscious  of  the  increas- 
ing danger,  which  the  short  interval  had  occa- 
sioned. A  number  of  country  merchants  came 
on  board  at  the  diflerent  places  where  the  boat 
is  accustomed  to  take  up  passengers,  and  who 
were  hurrying  down  to  New- York,  in  order  to 


f  fl 


ii' 


^'  \ 


h 


w-^ 


i.:  .,  A 


209 

make  a  speedy  settlement  of  their  business  or  to 
lay  in  a  tempf^'rary  supply  of  goods.  The  num- 
ber of  passengers,  on  board  of  the  Chancellor 
Livingston,  was  by  this  means  augmented  to  a 
very  unusual  degree  ;  so  that  the  spirit  of  enter- 
prise and  anxiety  were  strongly  depicted  in  each 
countenance. 

There  is  a  natural  disposition  in  man  to  be 
dissatisfied  with  his  present  condition.  It  arises 
from  the  prevalency  of  self-love,  which  often 
carries  its  influence  so  far  as  to  create  the  wish, 
that  we  were  not  exposed  to  any  evils  at  all. 
The  question  then  arises,  whether  the  generality  of 
mankind,  if  permitted  to  choose  a  situation  of 
life  to  place  themselves  in,  would  not  endeavour 
to  obtain  one  which  was  exempted  from  all  man- 
ner of  trouble  and  affliction  :  as  if  the  real  hap- 
piness of  any  individual  were  dependent,  entire- 
ly, upon  the  enjoyment  of  a  state  of  uninterrupt- 
ed repose  ;  or,  that  the  calms  of  human  life  did 
not  necessarily  require  to  be  ruffled,  by  the  oc- 
currence of  disagreeable  vicissitudes. 

The  truth  is,  that  if  we  were  not  occasionally 
disturbed  by  the  disquietudes  of  this  world,  we 
should  not  appreciate  the  happiness  which  Provi- 
dence has  provided  for  us.  It  is  by  this  means, 
that  we  are  best  made  acquainted  with  the  sources 
of  a  variety  of  blessings.     That  person  who  con- 


II 


^Mj.. 


303 


less  or  to 
he  num- 
hancellor 
\ted  to  a 
of  enter- 
;d  in  each 

lan  to  be 
It  arises 
lich  often 
the  wish, 
rils  at  all. 
enerality  of 

ituation  of 
endeavour 
m  all  man- 
e  real  hap- 
;nt,  entire- 
ninterrupt- 
an  life  did 
by  the  oc- 

iccasionally 

5  world,  we 

ich  Provi- 

his  means, 

the  sources 

n  who  con- 


tinually reposes  )n  the  bosom  of  prosperity,  is 
rendered  incapable  of  exertion  for  his  own  par- 
ticular good,  nor  is  he  likely  to  produce  any  re* 
suit,  which  may  tend  to  the  benefit  of  others;  it 
U  adversity  which  calls  forth  the  dormant  facul- 
ties of  the  mind,  by  throwing  open  the  door  to 
our   real   condition.      We   thus  experience    the 
knowledge,  as  it  were,  of  hidden  treasures,  which 
constant  prosperity  has  concealed  from  the  view, 
or  rendered  insipid.     Were  we  never  subjected 
to  danger  ourselves,  we  could  not  feel  for  the  dan- 
gers to  which  others  are  exposed.     If  no  misfor- 
tunes assailed  us,  how  liable  should  we  be  to  for- 
get the  duties  which  we  owe  to  God — to  our 
neighbour — and  to  ourselves.    As  different  shades 
in  colours,  enable  us   more  duly  to   appreciate 
each  beauty,  so  the  diversified  degrees  of  mis- 
fortune, tend  to  enhance  the  value  of  our  bless- 
ings.    Without  sickness,  we  could  not  be  so  sen- 
sible of  the  comforts  which  are  dependent  upon  a 
state  of  healthfulness ;  or  without  toils  and  trou- 
ble, we  could  not  enjoy  an  equal  pleasure  in  the 
retirement  of  a  tranquil  moment.     The  cup  of 
consolation  is  sweeter  for  being  occasionally  em 
bittered  with  trials  and  affliction.     Even  want  it- 
self will  rouse  the  mind  into  a  more  active,  exer- 
tion, and  call  forth  the  native  powers  of  genius. 


li 


1 


1 


I 


*^u  , 


Hf        '•■'■*.-• 


204 


¥ 


I '» 


H 


Is  not  the  change  from  one  to  another,  calculated 
to  produce  an  enjoyment  of  each  season?  It  is 
thus  that  the  beauties  of  spring  are  rendered  more- 
striking,  when  contrasted  with  the  severity  cf 
winter;  seed-time  and  harvest  return  at  their  pro- 
per intervals,  in  beauteous  order  and  succession; 
and  thus  become  the  means  of  contributing  to 
our  comforts.  He,  who  has  never  felt  the  pangs 
of  remorse,  can  never  appreciate  so  highly,  the 
peace  of  a  good  conscience.  We  see,  therefore, 
that  the  greatest  sources  of  our  happiness  often 
arise  from  a  contrariety  of  events,  and  that  the 
change  from  one  extreme  to  the  other,  is  produc- 
ed by  a  train  of  opposing  circumstances.  In  this 
way  it  appears  that  evils  (so  termed)  turn  out  to 
be  benefits.  By  the  dangers  which  we  have  been 
in  the  habit  of  experiencing,  we  learn  prudence, 
and  are  enabled  to  compassionate  and  admonish 
others  how  to  avoid  them  j  by  disease,  we  arc 
taught  to  enjoy  the  exquisite  blessings  of  health ; 
by  labour,  is  repose  rendered  more  sweet ;  and, 
in  general,  the  more  sensibly  we  are  affected  by 
grief  and  misfortune,  the  greater  happiness  arises, 
on  being  relieved  from  their  burthen.  On  the 
contrary,  disgust  is  found  to  succeed  satiety,  too 
frequently ;  dissipation,  luxury,  and  pride  pursue 
their  votaries  amid  the  walks  of  prosperity,  and  ♦' 


iU>  "^t 


>c 


II  § 


•ZUo 


',  calculated 
json?     It  is 
idered  more 
severity  cf 
at  their  pro- 
succession  ; 
tributing  to 
elt  the  pangs 
0  highly,  the 
;e,  therefore, 
ppiness  often 
and  that  the 
;r,  is  produc- 
ices.     In  this 
.)  turn  out  to 
we  have  been 
,rn  prudence, 
md  admonish 
sease,  we  are 
igs  of  health ; 
i  sweet;   and, 
re  affected  by 
ipiness  arises, 
len.     On   the 
:d  satiety,  too 
i  pride  pursue 
isperity,  and  •' 


succession  of  sensual  pleasures,  have  a  certain 
tendency  to  destroy  the  stimulus  to  the  nobler 
qualities  of  the  soul. 

Foolish  and  unjust  then  are  the  desires  of  man: 
supposing  that  what  we  desire  were  effected,  a 
result  opposite  to  our  wishes  would  be  the  means 
of  more  fully  detecting  our  folly.  We  are  apt  to 
complain  of  tempests  and  lightning,  and  yet,  by 
the  instrumentality  of  these  agents,  tlie  air  is  pu- 
rified and  thereby  rendered  less  liable  to  produce 
epidemics ;  we  view  the  conditions  of  others,  and 
think  that  we  have  discovered  something  envia- 
ble and  desirable;  the  lawyer  beholds  the  inde- 
pendant  ease  of  the  farmer,  and  thinks  him  happy; 
whereas  the  farmer  considers  those  only  so,  who 
live  without  manual  labour :  thus  also,  with  re- 
spect to  the  peaceable  tradesman  and  the  soldier ; 
each,  when  oppressed  by  partial  difficulties,  would 
seem  willing  to  exchange  situations ;  but  reverse 
the  picture,  for  a  moment,  and  you  will  find  them 
hesitating. 

"Nolint:  atqui  licet  esse  beatis." 

The  fact  is,  that  the  views  which  we  take  at  such 
times  are  not  well  founded,  and  arise  from  a  want 
of  due  comparison  ;  though  we  would  wish  to  be 


t   s 


\l 


p 


.  J,; . .^.,^^^j|ii,'^(*..i^«|«,-a*..' 


Tmm^ik.^»m*, 


206 


'  ■  hi 


happy,  we  do  not  always  desire   to  submit  to 
the  method,  by  which  this  state  is  attainable. 

How  then  are  we  to  consider  these  seeming 
misfortunes  ?  It  is  a  subject  of  great  consolation, 
to  be  thereby  led  to  confide  in  the  wisdom  and 
goodness  of  God;  by  submitting  cheerfully  to 
the  visitations  of  Providence,  we  have  just  reason 
for  rejoicing,  but  none  for  repining.  Acknow- 
ledge thy  Maker,  O  man,  when  he  permits  thee 
to  be  visited  by  affliction;  when  the  different  dis- 
pensations of  his  goodness  are  manifested,  either 
in  the  vicissitudes  of  joy  or  sorrow;  trust  in  his 
mercy,  to  relieve  thy  cares;  he  will  not  suffer  thy 
weak  nature  to  be  tempted,  beyond  that  which  it 
is  able  to  bear.  There  is  cause  for  hope  and 
thankfulness,  amid  all  these  trials;  and,  therefore, 
we  ought  to  bless  the  Author  of  every  good.  He 
is  also  the  Arbiter  of  our  lot,  and  knoweth  best 
our  necessities ;  and  when  we  are  suffering  chas- 
tisement, it  is,  perhaps,  the  best  means  of  con- 
vincing us  of  his  goodness;  for,  we  have  often 
seen  the  futility  of  our  own  desires,  we  have  often 
Taeen  convinced  that  those  very  things,  which  we 
most  anxiously  sought  after,  produced  not,  when 
they  were  obtained,  the  gratification  that  might 
have  been  expected;  and  where  the  contrary  of 
our  wishes  hag  been  realized,  wc  have  thereby 


•"^jPk 


207 


avoided  a  direful  list  of  misfortunes:  and  we  have, 
seen,  by  the  constant  changes  around  us  in  this 
world,  how  admirably  adapted  they  are  to  point 
out  the  ways  of  Providence;  and  that,  as  these 
wonderful  works  are  all  evidently  directed  by  the 
same  unerring  hand,  so  they  may  be  considered 
as  characteristic  of  the  incidental  vicissitudes, 
which  have  been  appointed  for  our  ^^ture  to  sus- 
tain. The  more  we  are  exercised  by  the  varying 
scenes  of  this  life,  the  more  enabled  we  shall  be 
to  support  them,  and  to  know  their  salutary  effects. 
Those  supplies  of  strength  which  will  be  given 
unto  us,  will  be  constant  occasion  for  blessing  and 
praising  him,  from  whom  all  joy  and  goodness 
proceed.  Let  us,  therefore,  submit  with  resigna- 
tion to  all  the  dispensations,  which  his  infallible 
direction  may  point  out,  with  a  firm  assurance 
that  every  affliction  in  this  life  will  be  an  eventual 
blessing.  If  so,  by  a  reliance  on  him,  we  shall 
find  means  for  surmounting  difficulties,  which 
were  at  first  formidable,  but  now  have  become 
light;  and  which  will  tend,  through  divine  grace, 
to  increase  our  patience  and  faith :  a  delightful 
prospect,  then  encourages  us  to  continue  in  sustain- 
ing burdens  and  griefs,  under  the  manifold  imper- 
fections of  our  nature,  when  we  consider  the  pro- 
mises which  are  made  unto  us,  by  him  for  whose 


i.ii'ij 


ri 


^p_ 


►>ft.HiiiK«K,t«afc:«*::;'> 


'mitn^u .  -i." 


iiOtf 


sake  there  bus  been  an  everlasting  portion  ap- 
pointed ;  unto  whom  we  are  directed  to  look  up 
for  the  manifestation  of  future  glory;  and  in 
whom,  we  hope  "  that  all  thingfi  work  togethey 
for  good  to  them  that  love  God^ 


\  r-. 


■, '' 


•• 


w'' 


1 


,,_^I^^"St-,  ■ 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Separation  of  Companions — Newark — Elizabeth  Town — 
Casual  Meeting — New-Brunswick — Divine  Service — De- 
votion. 

24M.  My  two  compagnons  de  voyage  here 
left  me  for  their  respective  homes.  In  con- 
sequence of  the  prevailing  fever  in  the  city  of 
New-York,  I  remained  there  only  sufficient  time 
to  accomplish  a  little  business;  and  then  crossing 
over  to  Powles'  Hook,  took  the  mail  for  New- 
Brunswick,  at  3  p.  M. 

The  pleasant  town  of  Newark^  is  situated  nine 
miles  from  New- York.  It  contains  two  Churches, 
and  a  Bank  ;  besides  a  considerable  number  of 
elegant  buildings,  a  public  square,  &c.  There  is 
great  neatness  of  style  displayed  in  the  white 
houses,  and  pales  in  front;  and  the  main  street  is 
very  capacious. 

Elizabeth  Town  is  next,  distant  six  miles  from 
Newark.  In  style  of  architecture,  this  town  ex- 
cels the  former,  though  not  in  size,  or  the  num- 

s  2 


::^; 


;-«6.i- 


•^. 


.^•'^• 


^u 


n 


''  « 


210 

ber  of  inhabitants.  The  houses  are  mostly  built 
of  brick,  and  many  of  them  are  three  stories  high. 
The  ride  from  New- York  would  have  been 
rather  solitary,  but  for  the  occasional  interchange 
of  passengers,  at  the  intermediate  towns.  Were 
one  to  judge  from  what  came  into  the  stage,  and 
their  escort,  it  would  be  no  improper  conclusion, 
that  these  places  were  celebrated  for  belles  ; 
neither  deficient  in  the  number,  nor  fairness  of 
the  sample.  A  crowd  of  these  charming  com- 
forters assembled  at  Newark,  to  express  their 
last  regrets,  at  parting*  with  two  of  their  female 
friends.  They  stepped  into  the  stage,  with  ap- 
parently a  light  heart,  and  sufficient  courage,  to 
prosecute  a  journey  as  far  as  New-Brunswick ; 
after  having  received  the  parting  good  wishes  of 
friendship,  recommending  them  to  kind  fortune, 
and  every  thing  pleasant.  I  never  felt  more  dis- 
posed for  conversation,  or  regretted  more  keenly 
the  want  of  an  introduction.  The  fair  games  of 
fortune  are  not  to  be  frowned  at,  thought  I ;  so 
these  ladies  will  not  be  offended,  at  my  finding  a 
subject  to  talk  about.  Their  look  was  pensive;  I 
sought  to  make  amends  for  the  apparent  embar- 
rassment, as  well  as  I  could,  and  had  the  pleasure 
of  succeeding.  The  strain  w&  louched,  and  all 
difficulties,  in  the  way  of  conversation,  soon  van- 


'  -'U„  . v^  ■ 


'  >^llr''»*^•"•'•w^ 


ostly  built 
jries  high, 
have  been 
itercbange 
ns.     Were 
;  stage,  and 
conclusion, 
for    belles  ; 
fairness  of 
ming  com- 
:press  tbeir 
tbeir  female 
;e,  witb  ap- 
courage,  to 
Brunswick ; 
jd  wishes  of 
ind  fortune, 
;lt  more  dis- 
more  keenly 
air  games  of 
jougbt  I ;  so 
my  finding  a 
IS  pensive;  I 
irent  embar- 
the  pleasure 
shed,  and  all 
m,  soon  van- 


211 

ished;  80  that  the  remaining  part  of  our  ride,  as 
far  as  New-Brunswick,  went  off  very  agreeably. 

Sunday^  Aug.  25th.  Having  concluded  to  re- 
main here  throughout  the  day,  I  took  the  first  op- 
portunity, after  breakfast,  of  calling  on  my  friend 
Mr.  C.  There  are  in  this  place  several  good 
boarding  houses,  possessing  every  advantage  of 
retirement,  and  good  accommodations.  In  the 
vicinity  of  New-Brunswick,  there  are  some  plea- 
sant walks  to  an  eminence  behind  the  town,  and 
along  the  banks  of  the  Rariton. 

The  situation  of  the  city  of  New-Brunswick,  is 
on  the  south  side  of  the  Rariton  river^  seventeen 
miles  from  Elizabeth  Town.  The  banks  of  this 
river  are  rather  low;  and  the  place  itself,  lying 
at  the  foot  of  a  hill  in  the  rear,  is  thereby  render- 
ed somewhat  unpleasant.  This  inconvenience 
is  partly  removed,  in  the  upper  parts  of  the  town ; 
and  by  the  main  street  running  at  right  angles 
with  the  river,  in  a  gradual  rise.  It  contains  se- 
veral places  of  public  worship,  a  Bank,  and  many 
fine  brick  buildings,  besides  Queen's  College, 
established,  in  1770,  by  the  Reformed  Dutch 
Church,  and  at  first  designed  for  a  Theological 
Seminary.  The  population  does  not  exceed  three 
thousand.  The  steam-boat  line  of  conveyance 
from  hence  to  New- York,  affords  a  pleasant  sail ; 


h 


1  J 


I        V 


^ 


ji 

•n 

•i) 


'■"^  ""■■•■$.■ 


--■'ia^SiV. 


212 


W- 


'^i   ' 


1   n 


from  the  cheering  prospect  of  cultivation  along  the 
banks  of  the  Rariton,  and  a  view  of  the  little 
town  of  Perth  Amboy,  situated  on  the  sea-coast. 
The  service  of  the  Episcopal  Church  was  per- 
font>ed,  both  forenoon  and  afternoon,  and  ser- 
mons delivered  by  Mr.  P.  from  Newark.  The 
congregation  is  not  very  numerous,  but  the  sing- 
ing was  well  attended  to,  and  the  responses  made 
in  an  audible  manner;  which  I  am  pleased  to 
mention,  particularly  the  latter,  as  this  devotional 
part  of  church  service,  is  not  so  generally  observ- 
ed as  it  ought  to  be.  It  frequently  happens  in 
country  churches,  and  where  people  are  not  par- 
ticularly attached  to  the  Episcopal  worship,  that 
the  effect  thereby,  in  a  great  measure,  is  weaken- 
ed. It  would  be  altogether  inexcusable  to  judge 
those  of  other  denominations,  who  occasionally 
may  attend,  and  who  are  not  conscious  of  the  de- 
fect, arising  from  a  want  of  participation  in  the 
Litany,  and  other  excellent  parts  of  the  church 
service;  but  in  those  "  tvho  profess  and  call  them- 
selves^^ churchmen,  the  neglect  is  quite  unpar- 
donable. Improvement  in  singing,  also,  is  very 
desirable;  that  the  congregation  may  join  in  one 
voice,  in  sending  forth  their  hymns  of  praise  to 
Almighty  God,  according  to  this  ancient  custom, 
frequently  alluded  to  by  the  royal  Psalmist. 


^ii:^^£i^^i^:.:^ 


# 


on  along  the 
of  the  little 
»e  sea-coast, 
rch  was  per- 
on,  and  ser- 
iwark.     The 
but  the  sing, 
ponses  made 
n  pleased  to 
lis  devotional 
irally  observ- 
Y  happens  in 
:  are  not  par- 
worship,  that 
re,  is  weaken- 
sable  to  judge 
3  occasionally 
ous  of  the  de- 
ipation  in  the 
of  the  church 
and  call  them- 
quite  unpar- 
,  also,  is  very 
ly  join  in  one 
s  of  praise  to 
ncient  custom, 
salmist. 


213 

lOevotion  is  a  source  of  unceasing  blessedness 
in  the  truly  pious.  It  improves  our  corrupt 
ilature,  by  producing  virtuous  affections,  and 
gradually  preparing  us  for  a  future  state  of 
existence.  The  immediate  act  of  devotion  has 
A  tendency  to  make  us  more  conscious  of  the 
presence  of  God,  than  is  experienced  when  en- 
gaged in  any  other  manner.  We  feel  more  deep- 
ly the  imjjressions  of  his  bountiful  goodness  and 
are  more  ready  to  acknowledge  it.  By  this 
means,  we  are  inclined  to  consider  devotion  as 
a  duty  which  we  owe  to  God.  And  as  we  are 
to  **  show  forth  his  praise,  not  only  with  our  lips, 
but  in  our  lives,"  Christians  are  under  obliga- 
tions to  exhort  and  stir  up  one  another  to  this 
holy  purpose ;  and  by  raising  their  songs  of 
praise  and  thanksgiving,  to  celebrate  the  name  of 
Jehovah. 

The  divine  presence  dwelt  formerly  between 
the  cherubim,  in  a  tabernacle  or  temple  made 
with  hands,  whither  the  Jews  were  commanded 
•♦to  resort ;  but  being  removed  to  the  Christian 
(.hurch  by  the  manifestation  of  Christ  in  the 
ilesh,  a  npw  dispensation  succeeded,  and  all  na- 
tions were  then  to  be  partakers  of  the  blessings 
of  divine  mercy ;  by  looking  up  unto  him,  as 
the  author  and  finisher  of  their  faith.     Into  thi-^ 


W  Ji 


11 


m 


■#-■' 


'■^' 


!-»;. 


•^tUUlKt 


"X- 


214 


it' ' 


church,  which  was  established  by  Christ  ott 
earth,-  we  are  now  all  invited  to  come,  and  there 
to  chant  praises  at  the  throne  of  grace.  By  of- 
fering up  unto  the  great  Head  of  the  church, 
our  songs  of  adoration,  through  the  merits  of 
Christ,  we  have  the  gracious  promise  of  being 
acceptable  and  finally  rewarded ;  and  the  assur- 
ance also  of  being  employed  in  some  measure 
like  those  blessed  spirits,  who  cease  not  to  lift 
up  their  voices,  day  and  night,  to  praise  their 
God. 

The  Psalms  of  David  have  always  been  con- 
sidered as  having  a  tendency  towards  producing 
in  the  mind  the  spirit  of  piety  and  fervour,  so 
essential  in  devotiond  exercises.  The  Christian 
church  therefore  hab  usually  adopted  them,  in 
some  form  or  other,  as  part  of  her  holy  exer- 
cises. So  pure  and  fervent  are  the  expressions 
of  adoration  which  they  contain,  and  so  admira- 
bly adapted  to  the  inward  feelings,  that  it  is 
hardly  possible  not  to  imbibe  a  portion  of  the 
spirit  and  zeal  of  the  Psalmist.  The  heart  in- 
deed may  be  accused  of  obduracy  and  want  of 
feeling,  almost,  which  could  listen  to  these  effu- 
sions with  indifference.  I  cannot  help  being 
forcibly  struck  with  the  efficacy  of  the  remark, 
as  applicable  to  the  act  of  public  worship  ;  and 


Christ   ott 
;,  and  there 
ce.    By  of- 
the  church, 
e   merits  of 
lise  of  being 
\  the  assur- 
)me  measure 
e  not  to  lift 
)  praise  their 


Q15 

1  have  been  drawn  into  the  subject  mole  fully, 
by  reason  of  the  services  which  have  this  day 
been  performed.  These  ideas,  as  they  have  oc- 
curred upon  the  subject  of  devotion,  it  will  per- 
haps not  be  deemed  inexpedient  to  enlarge  upon  ; 
by  considering  the  benefits  and  obligations 
arising. 

The  benefits  of  devotion  appear,  in  promoting 
a  reverence  for  the  infinite  perfections  of  Deity  : 
penetrated  with    the  admiration   of  the  exalted 
goodness  and  glory  of  God,  when  prostrate  with- 
in his  holy  temple,  the  mind  is  filled  with  the 
greatness  of  the  object  with  which  it  is  engaged  ; 
all  worldly  thoughts  and  occupations  should  be 
then    suspended,   as   the    important   object   lays 
claim  to  an  undivided  attention  :   the  ideas  are 
raised  to  the  contemplation  of  him   who  ruleth 
above  the    starry   firmament,  and  who  alone  is 
worthy  to  receive  glory,  honour,  and  praise  ;  from 
whose  notice    nothing    escapes.     Great    is    the 
Lord  !  Sing  a  new  song  to  our  God,  who  dwells 
in   light   inaccessible !      Devotion    is    peculiarly 
adapted   to    excite     these     solemn     impressions 
concerning  that  Being,  before  whom  the  universe 
is   as    nothing :    it   is    when  thus    engaged   that 
the    infinity    of   his  nature    is    presented  to   us 


i) 


n\ 


ft 


/  'i 


..'■     i: 


-Vit 


-■'.-r» 


210 


■  t  i,l  •' 


in  a  more  forcible  point  of  view.     It  is  then  thai 
we  feel  more  deeply  penetrated  by  a  sense  of  his 
unbounded  justice,  benevolence,  and  mercy  ;  and 
hence  our  obligations  to  the  divine  law  are  mort" 
lirmly  impressed.     The  mind  as  it  were  is  more 
conscious  of  its  own  movements,  and  by  a  closer 
inspection  scrutinizes  itself.     The  precepts  con- 
ferred have  a  more  solid  tendency,  when  every 
admonition  to  virtue  is  enforced  by  a  sense  of 
duty,  and  vice  restrained  by  the  most  dreadful 
denunciations.     A  power  and  command  are  add- 
ed to  every  precept ;  a  fear  of  offending  is  com- 
bined with  a  love  of  God  ;  and  thus  is  produced 
eventually  an  increase  of  piety  and  virtue  ;  no 
revolting  principle  arises  in  the  mind  when  fully 
penetrated  with  the  exalted  excellences  of  Deity  j 
now  becoming  more  devoted,  as  it  receives  comfort, 
from  an  unusual  degree  of  complacency,  which 
the  public  ordinances  of  the  church  are  so  pecu- 
liarly fitted  to  produce.     It  cannot  be  imagined 
otherwise  than  that  devotional  exercises  are  capa- 
ble of  affording  any  result,  but  an  increase  of 
piety  and  virtue  ;  when  it  is  considered  that  the 
solemnity  of  the  act  has  a  natural  tendency  to 
influence  the  human  mind :  if  the  ordinary  avo- 
cations of  life  be  ^.  .thdrawn  from  the  view  for  a 
time,  they  are  supplied  by  others  of  a  nature  in- 


ii\   >  v.. 


'■■*A: 


is  then  thai 
sense  of  his 
mercy ;  and 
aw  are  mort' 
^erc  is  more 
d  by  a  close  I 
precepts  con- 
when  every 
y  a  sense  of 
(lost  dreadful 
\and  are  add- 
nding  is  corn- 
is  is  produced 
id  virtue  ;  no 
nd  when  fully 
ices  of  Deity  i 
;eives  comfort, 
acency,  which 
ti  are  so  pecu- 
t  be  imagined 
cises  are  capa- 
an  increase  of 
idered  that  the 
•al  tendency  to 
ordinary  avo- 
the  view  for  a 
of  a  nature  in- 


2ir 

tcrestinp;  in  the  highest  degree  ;  inasmuch  as  they 
concen  the  future  welfare,  by  tending  towards  a 
stJite  of  communion  in  which  the  soul  is  exalted, 
from  things  temporal  to  things  eternal ;  and,  if  sin- 
cerely felt,  the  believer  must  ever  go  on  increasing 
in  spiritual  knowledge,  and  be  prepared  for  that 
change  which  is  the  lot  of  mortality. 

From  the  force  of  haljit  also  it  appears  that 
devotion  has  a  tendency  to  produce  a  beneficial 
result.     The  Lord  is   gracious,  and  his  arm   is 
ever  extended  to  the  humble  suppliant.     Will  hc 
not  barken  then  to  the  petitions  of  a  repentant 
sinner,  when   bending  at  the  throne  of  mercy  ? 
There  is  great  assurance  to  be  derived  from  the 
promises,  that  he  will  hear  the  importunate  when 
they  cry  unto  him.     Let  the  sinner  be  persuaded 
that  he  will  be   strengthened,  that  he  will  find 
saving    grace.     By   the   power    of    devotion   sin 
will  be  resisted,  its  dominion  will   gradually  be 
diminished,    and     finally    its    access     effectually 
guarded  against.     The  throne  of  mercy  is  acces- 
sible to  the  prayers  of  the  truly  devout,  and  as 
there   is   every  hope  of  improving  daily,  by   a 
continuance  of  humble   supplication,  in  the  prin- 
ciples of  piety  ;  so  every  additional  return  to  the 
sanctuary  will  increase  the  desire,  which  proceeds 
from  serving  the  Lord  with  gladness. 


1^ 


'1* 


i 


t\    ! 


,,.--    J 


u 


■■■tfc>" 


I 


'A 


-wrttej--. 


218 

The  true  spirit  of  devotion  is  love.  It  is  the 
love  of  God  shed  abroad  in  the  heart  of  man  ; 
and  the  operation  of  this  love  divine,  as  if  through 
the  instrumentality  of  man,  appears  in  th<*  act 
of  devotion :  upon  this  principle  there  is  there- 
fore a  twofold  reference  ;  the  one  in  respect  to 
the  throne  of  grace,  and  the  other  to  the  indivi- 
dual offering  the  petition.  In  the  very  act  of 
imploring  mercy  for  our  sins  we  are  in  com- 
munion with  the  spirit  of  truth.  How  unspeaka- 
ble then  is  the  goodness  of  God,  which  appears 
in  the  manifestation  of  this  divine  blessing !  A 
sinner  is  permitted  to  importune  at  the  door  of 
divine  mercy ;  notwithstanding  his  sins  are  grie- 
vous, and  his  iniquities  numerous,  there  is  still 
a  way  left  open,  whereby  he  may  be  reclaimed, 
and  obtain  pardon  j  the  fruits  of  divine  mercy 
are  revealed  through  the  intervention  of  a  Me- 
diator, and  the  Holy  Spirit,  with  healing  in  his 
wings,  flies  to  the  benighted  way-worn  pilgrim; 
a  gleam  of  light  has  flashed  across  the  path,  and 
he  wakes  from  slumbering  in  a  state  of  insecurity, 
into  which  a  night  of  darkness  had  plunged  him : 
his  prayer  then  is,  that  his  faith  may  be  increased 
in  future,  he  confesses  and  deplores  his  past  of- 
fences with  sincerity  and  fervour ;  and,  that  the 
spirit   of   repentance    may    abide    within    him, 


•.»•-' 'r 


r'-M 


t 


•r{- 


r  A> 


Cctei 


219 


It  is  the 
irt  of  man  ; 
IS  if  through 
s  in  the   act 
ere  is  there- 
i  respect  to 
0  the  indivi- 
very  act  of 
are  in  com- 
►w  unspeaka- 
hich  appears 
blessing !     A 
t  the  door  of 
sins  are  grie- 
there  is  still 
)e  reclaimed, 
iivine  mercy 
ion  of  a  Me- 
ealing  in  his 
orn  pilgrim; 
the  path,  and 
of  insecurity, 
plunged  him : 
be  increased 
s  his  past  of- 
and,  that  the 
within   him, 


ceases  not  to  be  the   ardent  desire  of  his  heart. 
Thus  by  an  intimate   communion  and  worship, 
with  him  who  is  the  fountain  of  all  good,  there 
cannot  fail  to  be  derived  a  portion  of  that  abun- 
dance ;  and  the  interceding  penitent  is   touched 
with  a  love  of  infinite   goodness  and  infinite  per- 
fection.    Who  has  ever  tasted  that  his   love   is 
gracious,  and  will  not  aspire  after  a  conformity 
to  it  ?  Who  will  ever  wish  to  wander  from  a  union 
In  which  the  soul  is  connected,  from  the  adorable 
object,  as  well  as  origin  of  love  ?     The   exercise 
of  prayer,  praise,  and  every  act  of  adoration  has 
a  tendency   to    unite    more   firmly   every  active 
principle  ;  the   chords   of  fellowship   are  drawn 
closer  by  the  various  operations  of  the  mind,  and 
an    internal    strength    dispensed.     This    circum- 
stance is  applicable  throughout  the  various  trans- 
actions of  common  life  j   the  result  then  will  be 
more  easily  perceptible,  in  a  moral  and  religious 
point  of  view.  Devotion,  therefore,  when  consider- 
ed in  relation  to  this  particular,  will  be  found  every 
way  conducive  to  increase  the  seeds  of  religion, 
and  to  strengthen  the  heart.     An  habitual  inti- 
macy thus  formed  by  repeated   acts  of  devotion, 
and  uniting  by  an   indissoluble    tie,  will  give    a 
warmth    and    vitality  of  feeling,  a  flow  of  con- 
ception  which    can  only  be   derived  from  this 


I 


i 


I4i 


/111 


■M^. 


4 


I    ■; 


i    .  * 


220 

assimilating  influence.  The  virtuous  habit  must 
thus  continue  to  increase,  till  at  length  the  cor- 
rupt nature  of  man  is  changed,  and  new  strength 
contributed,  whereby  he  is  enabled  efFectually 
to  turn  away  the  arrows  of  the  adversary.  The 
peace  of  the  good  man  is  thus  secured,  as  the 
habit  becomes  a  part  of  his  very  nature,  by  pro- 
ducing a  disposition  for  piety  and  virtue. 

How  wonderful  is  the  change  experienced! 
The  real  state  of  happiness  which  Christian  de- 
votion imparts !  How  long  may  all  worldly  plea- 
sures be  sought  after,  before  this  happiness  will 
be  felt  I  How  admirably,  on  the  other  hand,  is  it 
to  be  found  in  the  exercises  of  devotion!  I  ap- 
peal to  the  pious  worshipper  of  God!  What 
sweet  infusions  of  pleasure  have  been  felt,  when 
the  soul  has  been  devoutly  engaged  ?  Does  not 
the  rapture  of  such  a  moment  penetrate  to  the  re- 
cesses of  the  heart,  and  strike  a  firm  conviction 
of  the  divine  power?  Do  not  those  delightful 
emotions,  experienced  by  the  truly  pious,  at  the 
throne  of  grace,  in  contemplating  the  infinite 
wisdom,  goodness,  and  love  of  God,  convince 
them  that  these  moments  are  brightened  by  a  di- 
vine radiance  ?  Fervently,  indeed,  are  those  de- 
votional exercises  felt,  which  proceed  from  a  con- 
viction of  Almighty  presence,  drawing  as  it  wen^ 


',' ,-/.      ' 


..»_i«Li- 


221 


labit  must 
,  the  cor- 
jv  strength 
effectually 
,ary.  The 
red,  as  the 
re,  by  pro- 
ue. 

:perienced ! 
iristian  de- 
orldly  plea- 
:)piness  will 
r  hand,  is  it 
;ion!     I  ap- 


: 


od!     What 

felt,  when 

Does  not 

te  to  the  re- 
conviction 
delightful 

ious,  at  the 
the  infinite 

id,  convince 

ned  by  a  di- 
e  those  de- 
from  acon- 

ig  as  it  weiT 


closer  the  chords  of  love,  and  approximating  the 
soul  to  the  divine  nature.  Exalted  is  the  idea, 
that  feeble  man  can  be  permitted  thus  to  approach 
the  throne  of  grace,  with  assurance  of  the  favour 
of  God,  derived  from  appointed  means ;  and  be 
filled  with  the  enlightening  consolation  of  divine 
love,  which  proceeds  from  the  spirit  of  fervent 
devotion. 

In  reciprocating  the  love,  and  experiencing  the 
goodness  of  his  heavenly  father,  the  child  of  af- 
fliction is  relieved,  when  bent  at  the  foot  of  the 
throne  of  grace.  The  heavy  burthen  of  his  bodily 
sufferings  is  lightened;  the  stable  promise  of  him 
that  was  judicially  stricken  for  human  transgres- 
sions, yields  firmness  to  his  drooping  spirits,  and 
consolation  to  'lis  aching  heart.  He  who  bade 
the  sick  arise,  can  as  easily  say  "  thy  sins  be  for' 
given  thee?''  Cheering,  indeed,  is  the  remem- 
brance of  pardoned  sin.  Hope  sheds  a  delight- 
ful pleasure  to  the  soul,  and  points  to  that  glory 
which  is  to  be  revealed. 

In  the  nearer  approach  towards  a  communion 
with  the  great  One  Cause^  must  be  perceivable, 
the  progress  of  happiness,  which  proceeded  from 
him  alone.  Ere  first  the  sun  was  taught  to  shed 
his  genial  warmth,  deep  retired  within  his  essence, 
the  Almighty  viewed  the  eternal  forms  of  beings 

T  2 


A 


i 


M 


4     ./;, 


y 


.    S 


222 


W'  .'^i 


I     I 


uncreated.  He  called  the  earth  out  of  chaos, 
breathed  inio  man  the  breath  of  life,  and  to  the 
organic  form  of  every  creature,  proportioned  a 
suitable  degree  of  happiness.  Man,  more  emi- 
nently endowed  than  the  rest,  approximates,  in  a 
greater  degree,  as  was  evidently  intended,  to  the 
perfection  and  happiness  of  his  Maker.  Unceas- 
ing source  of  consolation!  By  the  promotion  of 
virtue  and  pious  devotion,  is  this  happiness  in- 
creased. Habit  produces  the  issue  so  desirable, 
and  confirms  the  leading  principle  of  our  nature. 
Thus  does  devotion  Increase  our  happiness,  by 
entering  into  the  heart.  In  this  manner,  an  ex- 
ercise of  the  sweetest  powers  of  the  soul  are  call- 
ed forth ;  and  we  are  led  with  one  mind  to  glorify 
the  Author. 

Anticipation,  also,  is  another  source  by  which 
the  benefits  of  devotion  are  made  evident.  This 
principle  is  implanted  within  the  human  breast, 
for  wise  and  important  purposes.  We  are  charm- 
ed with  what  is  novel;  we  frequently  enjoy  a  fore- 
taste of  the  pleasures  of  this  life,  by  the  promise 
of  what  is  desirable  or  lovely.  So,  likewise,  there 
are  times  in  which  we  contemplate  the  wonders 
of  Providence,  in  a  way  which  dazzles  all  earthly 
considerations.  The  world  and  all  the  engage- 
ments are  absorbed  in  the  consideration  of  our 


..-  *  ■  ,-jf-^ 


jf  chaos, 
nd  to  the 
rtioned  a 
nore  emi- 
tiates,  in  a 
[ed,  to  the 
XJnceas- 
amotion  of 
pp'iness  in- 
)  desirable, 
our  nature, 
ppiness,  by 
iner,  an  ex- 
oul  are  call- 
d  to  glorify 

;e  by  which 
Ident.     This 
iman  breast, 
e  are  charm- 
enjoy  afore- 
the  promise 
lewise,  there 
}\e   wonders 
|es  all  earthly 
the  engage- 
lation  of  ouv 


223 


I 


great  Parent.  This  tendency  to  draw  the  soul 
to  a  single  object,  and  unite  all  the  efforts  of 
thought,  is  probably  the  means  (unaccountable  to 
us)  by  which  we  are  led  on,  step  by  step,  towards 
heavenly  knowledge.  By  gradual  degrees  are 
our  views  enlarged  from  the  fulness  of  his  glory; 
and  faith,  which  is  at  first  hardly  perceivable  to 
exist,  is  at  last  amplified  in  an  inconceivable  man- 
ner. Thus  is  the  bulwark  of  Christian  warfare 
established,  on  a  firm  and  incorruptible  basis  ; 
and  the  object  of  our  adoration  never  ceases  to 
be  the  source  of  delight. 

Numerous,  indeed,  are  the  benefits  derived 
from  devotion,  and  hence  the  infinite  obligations 
due  to  our  God.  We  are  every  where  admonish- 
ed throughout  the  sacred  volume,  to  humble  our- 
selves before  him,  for  the  various  manifestations 
of  the  divine  favour  conferred  upon  us,  during 
our  state  of  existence  in  this  life ;  as  well  as  for 
the  blessed  expectation  of  reward  in  that  which  is 
to  come-  He  enriches  the  earth  with  harvests 
for  the  use  of  man,  and  having  created  him  a 
body,  as  well  as  a  soul,  it  is  meet  and  right  that 
both  should  take  a  part  in  his  service,  and  that 
this  duty  be  showed  forth  by  external  signs.  He 
is  our  God,  and  can  we  testify  our  knowledge  of 
his  love  and  care  towards  us  better,  than  by  a 


i] 


')fi 

k 


%  t' 


( 


la 


I- 


i'  St 


224 


'I   ■) 


constant  obedience  to  his  commands,  in  his  own 
appointed  way?  The  good  shepherd  provideth 
for  his  flock,  he  feedeth  them  in  green  pastures, 
he  suflereth  them  not  to  stray;  by  gentle  means 
doth  he  lead  his  followers,  whom  he  hath  pur- 
chased with  his  own  blood,  through  the  way  of 
truth  ;  admonishing  them  in  the  line  of  duty,  he 
refreshes  them  with  his  spirit,  and  disseminates 
the  seeds  of  the  word  in  their  hearts.  It  is  an  in- 
cuml)ent  duty  on  us,  that  we  disregard  not  the 
discipline,  which  he  established  means  of  grace 
have  set  before  us.  When  the  feast  is  prepared, 
shall  we  neglect  or  refuse  to  participate  in  its 
blessings?  When  God  calleth,-  shall  we  not  an- 
swer by  an  attendance  upon  his  holy  ordinances, 
by  a  participation  in  the  public  worship  of  his 
church,  into  the  visible  family  of  which  we  have 
been  adopted? 

Our  peculiar  relation  to  Jehovah,  by  means  of 
the  covenant  of  grace  which  he  hath  appointed 
for  us,  is  another  reason  why  we  are  bound  to 
offer  up  our  praises  and  thanksgivings  at  the 
throne  of  mercy.  Believers  are  the  adopted  chil- 
dren of  God,  and  joint  heirs  with  Christ  to  an 
incorruptible  inheritance.  They  have  been  re- 
generated by  a  new  birth  unto  righteousness,  and 
thereby  made  the  heirs  of  eternal  life :  which  pri> 


I  his  own 
provideth 
pastures, 
tie  means 
hath  pur- 
:he  way  of 
f  duty,  he 
sseminates 
It  is  an  in- 
rd  not  the 
IS  of  grace 
\  prepared, 
pate  in  its 
we  not  an- 
ordinances, 
ship  of  his 
ch  we  have 

)y  means  of 
I  appointed 
e  bound  to 
ngs  at  the 
lopted  chil- 
hrist  to  an 
e  been  re- 
lusness,  and 
:  which  pn-^ 


225 

vilege  is  set  forth  in  the  word  adoption ;  in  order 
to  show  that,  before,  they  were  alienated  by  a  state 
of  nature ;  so  that,  they  could  not  by  any  other 
title  obtain  the  heavenly  patrimony.  This  eternal 
source  of  blessedness  has  been  procured  through 
the  mediation  of  Christ ;  and  the  act  of  divine 
grace,  by  which  sinners  liable  to  the  punishment 
of  death,  are  translated  out  of  this  deplorable 
condition,  and  made  capable  of  a  filial  relation- 
ship, is  exceedingly  wonderful :  nothing  less  than 
omnipotent  power  could  be  sufficient  to  effect 
such  change.  The  children  of  God  are  all  the 
objects  of  his  care ;  he  feels  compassion  for  them 
wRen  under  the  rod  of  correction,  with  a  fatherly 
hand  he  administers  consolation  to  their  infir- 
mities, and  givfs  his  angels  charge  to  encamp 
around  their  dwelling.  What  a  favour  to  obtain 
the  protection  of  a  kind,  indulgent  father!  Act, 
therefore,  in  obedience  to  this  high  privilege;  be 
not  diverted  by  the  lleeting  vanities  of  this  world; 
set  forth  by  your  life  and  conduct,  that  you  have 
a  lively  faith  in  God's  mercies.  Let  it  appear  by 
acts  of  solemn  devotion,  and  persevere  in  a  steady 
conduct  before  God  and  man;  worship  in  sin- 
cerity; show  forth  the  fruits  of  your  obedience, 
by  a  joyful  acquiescence  in  the  truth,  as  it  is  in 
Christ  Jesus;  lay  hold  of  his  righteousness  and 


'a 


m 


•11 


226 


M.'\ 


(:*•  [■ 


gracious  promises  as  the  Saviour,  and  you  will 
be  finally  rewarded  with  a  crown  of  ineffable 
glory. 

Let,  therefore,  the  reader  consider  well  his 
character.  Are  you  a  Christian  ? — If  so  in  reality, 
then,  indeed,  are  you  an  heir  of  glory,  a  child  of 
God.  It  would  be  well  to  examine  into  the  state 
of  your  own  welfare,  and  the  nature  of  that 
character,  and  the  privileges  attendant  on  it.  If 
not,  you  bear  the  name  to  no  purpose,  and  so  far 
from  being  any  service,  I  can  give  no  flattering 
assurance  to  your  condition;  you  are  still  subject 
to  the  penalty  of  sin ;  you  are  still  an  alien  and  a 
sojourner  in  a  foreign  land. 

To  thee,  O  Father  of  all  beings,  both  animat- 
ed and  inanimate  nature  utter  forth  unceasing 
praise; — the  cattle  of  a  thousand  hills  are  fed  by 
thy  bounty ; — the  least  of  thy  creatures  is  deemed 
worthy  of  thy  peculiar  care; — the  sun  rises  to 
enlighten  and  cheer  the  world  by  its  rays,  to  in- 
vite thy  creatures  to  the  labour  which  thou  hast 
given  them  to  do; — refreshing  showers  fall  to 
moisten  the  earth,  to  crown  the  harvest  with 
plenty,  and  to  mature  the  vine; — the  cheerful 
choir  of  feathered  songsters  join  their  notes  to 
celebrate  thy  praise;  shall  man  then  be  found 
destitute  of  the  spirit  of  praise  for  thy  bounties: 


-.1^. 


"\ 


II         I 

i!  C 


you 


will 


ffabk 


ine 


well  his 
in  reality, 
a  child  of 
0  the  state 
e  of   thai 
on  it.     If 
and  so  fav 
o  flattering 
itill  subject 
alien  and  a 


22r 

I  trust  he  will  not.  The  spirit  of  dev  )tion  to  a 
pious  mind,  is  a  source  of  unceasing  comfort;  it 
increases  all  the  blessings  of  life;  it  strengthens 
every  virtue.  Cultivate  this  spirit,  and  let  us 
abide  stedfastly  in  the  faith  ;  resolving  to  rely 
on  his  mercy,  and  to  "  worship  the  Lord  in  *he 
heautif  of  holiness^ 


/ 

i 


a 


■    \) 

i 


*S»«u;iL.'' 


hej 


CHAPTER  XX, 


i 


feicneial  description  of  the  Country — Princeton :  Nassau- 
Hall  College :  Theological  Seminary  of  the  Presbyterian 
Church — Trenton — Uoad  to  Philadelphia. 


26th.  The  country,  between  New-Brunswick 
and  Princeton,  possesses  considerable  beauty. 
Variegated  with  the  iindulating  prospect  of  dis- 
tant hills  and  gradual  declivities,  the  central  is, 
perhaps,  preferable  to  any  other  portion  of  the 
state  of  Ne w- Jersey .  The  road  from  New-Bruns- 
wick to  Trenton,  passes  over  part  of  the  high 
grounds,  so  called;  and  presents  to  view  a  num- 
ber of  fine  seats.  To  this  may  be  added,  the 
constant  improvements  and  cultivation,  with  the 
occasional  verdure,  the  patch  of  stubble,  and  the 
orchard  fields  (for  which  the  state  is  celebrated), 
shrouded  with  bending  branches  of  ripened  fruit, 
and  a  more  luxuriant  spot,  at  this  season  of  the 
year,  is  rarely  to  be  met  with. 

Princeton  is  said  to  be  the  most  elevated  and 
healthy  situation  between  Philadelphia  and  New- 

u 


t  fijH 


ii 


•230 


If 

|i 

f'*'»i 

^.  1*! 

'■■  i' 

'   ir\ 

If  '■  '■* 

h 

jV 

1 

' 

|j^ 

York.  During  my  stay  there,  I  ascended  the  cu- 
pola of  the  College,  in  order  to  examine  the  view; 
but  I  do  not  think  it  so  fine  as  that  from  the 
Princeton  Academy  now  building;  from  which 
the  prospect  widens,  to  at  least  forty  miles.  The 
village  is  situated  twelve  miles  from  Trenton.  It 
contains  about  one  hundred  houses,  and  six  hun- 
dred inhabitants. 

This  place  is  distinguished  as  the  seat  of  Nas- 
sau-Hall College.  Under  the  guidance  of  learn- 
ed and  judicious  professors,  it  has  ever  main- 
tained a  highly  respectable  rank  among  the  lite- 
rary institutions  of  our  own,  as  well  as  foreign 
countries.  The  reason  why  it  has  acquired  cele- 
brity in  Europe,  may  be  attributed  to  the  public 
stations,  held  by  the  Alumni  of  this  College. 
Ever  ambitious  to  promote  the  genius  and  ho- 
nour of  her  members,  this  institution  has  raised 
to  eminence  more  than  any  other  of  equal  num- 
bers. Studious  of  all  useful  science,  she  has, 
notwithstanding,  paid  particular  attention  to  those 
branches,  so  essential  in  the  excitement  of  genius 
'•^Elocution  and  Mathematics. 

27th.  The  Theological  Seminary  of  the  Pres- 
byterian Churchy  was  opened  at  Princeton  about 
ten  years  ago,  and  permanently  located  there,  the 
following  year.     The  number  of  students,  at  the 


231 


,  the  cu- 
le  view ; 
rom  the 
m  which 
;8.      The 
nton.    It 
six  hun- 

t  of  Nas- 
of  learn- 
rer  main- 
r  the  lite- 
13  foreign 
lired  cele- 
^he   public 
College, 
and  ho- 
las  raised 
ual  num- 
she  has, 
311  to  those 
t  of  genius 

the  Pres' 
;ton  about 
there,  the 
nts,  at  the 


opening  of  the  institution,  was  three;  and  in  the 
May  following,  they  had  increased  to  eight. 
This  increase  has  continued,  till  the  number  now 
amounts  to  upwards  of  eighty.  There  are  three 
professors;  one  of  Didactic  and  Polemic  Theo- 
logy, one  of  Ecclesiastical  History  and  Church 
Government,  and  one  of  Oriental  and  Biblical 
Literature :  by  the  first  named,  the  instruction 
in  Pastoral  Theology  is  conducted  ;  and  by  the 
second,  that  on  the  composition  and  delivery  of 
sermons. 

A  public  edifice  has  been  erected  in  Princeton, 
sufficient  to  contain  the  apartments  and  lodging- 
rooms,  for  the  accommodation  of  pupils.  This 
edifice  was  commenced  in  the  autumn  of  1815, 
and  in  that  of  1817,  occupied  by  the  Professors 
and  Students.  It  is  built  of  stone  ;  one  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  in  length,  fifty  in  breadth,  and,  in- 
cluding the  basement,  four  stories  high.  Its 
workmanship  is  neat  and  economical.  Besides 
the  apartments  allotted  for  the  Recitations,  Li- 
brary, and  Refectory,  it  will  furnish  lodgings, 
when  finished,  for  about  one  hundred  pupils. 

On  being  introduced  at  the  Seminary,  I  had  an 
opportunity  of  becoming  acquainted  with  the  in- 
ternal regulations  ;  and  I  cannot  help  expressing 
the  high  degree  of  satisfaction,  derived  from  the 


■'1. 


Mfi 


,,.  ♦  .  . 


\ 


■r^;i- 


232 


laV^Wi, 


m 


V  1 '  '. 


regularity  and  decorum,  in  which  all  things  are 
conducted.  No  student  is  permitted,  except  for 
special  reasons,  to  board  out  of  the  Seminary  ;  or 
unnecessarily  to  be  absent  from  his  own  room, 
in  the  hours  of  study.  A  free  use  of  the  Library 
is  granted ;  but  the  Students  are  not  permitted  to 
carry  the  books  out  of  the  Seminary.  Societies 
are  formed  by  the  Students,  for  their  improve- 
ment in  piety  and  knowledge.  The  hours  of 
morning  and  evening  prayer,  of  recitation,  of 
study,  and  of  recreation  are  fixed  by  the  Pro- 
fessors. At  the  hour  of  dinner,  I  sat  down  with 
the  Students.  One  of  the  Senior  class  asked  a 
blessing ;  and  when  the  meal  was  finished,  called 
upon  another  Student,  to  return  thanks.  The 
repast  was  frugal  and  savoury. 

It  is  the  object  of  the  Seminary,  to  provide  for 
the  endown-  snt  of  Professorships  and  Scholar- 
ships. Without  capable  instructors,  willing  to 
devote  themselves,  for  life,  to  the  cause,  and 
without  provision  being  made  for  indigent  stu- 
dents, it  would  be  impossible  to  get  along  with 
any  degree  of  usefulness.  The  Board  of  Direc- 
tors of  the  Seminary,  however,  have  taken  the 
most  effectual  means  of  securing  the  intended 
object,  by  the  erection  of  a  building  on  a  suitable 
spot,  and  the  establishment  of  a  Theological  Li- 


..fcv. 


233 


Kings  are 
xcept  for 
inary ;  or 
vn  room, 
e  Library 
rmitted  to 
Societies 
improve- 
hours  of 
itation,  of 
y  the  Pro- 
down  with 
ss  asked  a 
hed,  called 
inks.    The 

)rovide  for 

id  Scholar- 
willing  to 

I  cause,  and 
iigent  stu- 

|along  with 

of  Direc- 

taken  the 

le  intended 

|n  a  suitable 
)logical  Li- 


brary. In  doing  this,  the  annual  expences  have 
far  exceeded  the  amount  of  the  interest  on  the 
capital  stock ;  so  that  the  surplusage,  from  year 
to  year,  depends  upon  the  contributions  to  the 
contingent  fund.  Being  thus  instituted  in  full 
operation,  and  the  advantages  more  and  more 
conspicuous,  an  appeal  for  charitable  donations 
cannot  fail  to  be  more  successful,  as  these  exi- 
gences and  the  prospects  of  future  usefulness,  be- 
come known  to  the  public. 

28th.  The  charming  country,  which  is  every 
where  presented  on  the  road  between  Princeton 
and  Philadelphia,  cannot  fail  to  attract  particular 
observation.  On  every  side,  you  behold  the 
thriving  appearance  of  farm  houses,  and  the  ra- 
pid progress  of  improvements.  Here  and  there, 
the  Church  raises  its  towering  spire  to  grace  this 
land  of  enchantment.  The  eligible  sites  have 
been  selected  for  the  erection  of  gentlemen's 
seats;  with  which,  for  taste  and  elegance,  few 
can  be  found  to  compare.  Many  circumstances 
combine  to  render  these  the  suitable  residences 
for  persons  retiring  from  the  active  pursuits  of 
life,  and  desiring  literary  recreation. 

At  the  head  of  tide  water,  on  the  Delaware, 
stands  the  city  of  Trenton.  This  is  one  of  the 
largest  towns  in  the  state  of  New- Jersey  j  and,  in 

u  2 


■-^ter-- 


:a.,>. 


■A 


?■?-•' 


234 

a  commercial  point  of  view,  possesses  considera- 
ble advantages,  which  are  promoted  by  reason  of 
its  vicinity  to  Philadelphia.  One  line  of  steam- 
boat navigation,  between  Philadelphia  and  New- 
York,  is  established  at  this  place;  but  in  case  the 
tide  does  not  suit,  the  passengers  are  occasionally 
landed  four  miles  below,  on  the  Pennsylvania 
side,  and  conveyed  thence  by  a  line  of  Post- 
Coaches.  This  mode  of  diversifying  the  scene, 
adds  much  to  the  pleasure  of  the  traveller,  by 
means  of  good  roads,  and  agreeable  prospects. 
The  waters  of  the  Delaware,  near  Trenton,  form 
considerable  rap'ds,  which  are  not  passed,  but  by 
batteaux,  and  Du.  ham  boats,  with  flour  and  other 
articles,  in  their  passage  to  and  from  the  Phila- 
delphia market.  The  beauty  of  Trenton  is  much 
enhanced,  as  also  the  river  scenery,  by  the  erec- 
tion of  a  new  bridge,  admired  for  its  singular 
construction  and  solidity.  Several  public  build- 
ings serve  to  grace  this  place,  among  which  are  a 
Bank ;  and  three  other  places  of  worship,  besides 
an  Episcopal  Church  lately  rebuilt. 

After  crossing  the  bridge,  we  continued  our 
ride  by  a  pleasant  road  near  the  shores,  and  in 
view  of  the  Delaware.  The  country  here  has 
long  since  been  rendered  beautiful,  by  the  culti- 
vated enclosures,  and  charming  villas  that  line 


■r:y 


^^. 


■>»,:"■, '^' 
■-H*',     *■ 


'"•^^^ 


^-^ 


i 


msidera- 
eason  of 
f  steam- 
nd  New- 
[  case  the 
:asionally 
nsylvania 
of  Post- 
;he  scene, 
iveller,  by 
prospects, 
iton,  form 
ed,  but  by 
r  and  other 
the  Phila- 
on  is  much 
y  the  erec- 
;s   singular 
iblic  build- 
ivhich  are  a 
lip,  besides 

itinued  our 
)res,  and  in 
-y  here  has 
)y  the  culti- 
as  that  line 


"     235 

the  banks  of  the  river.  Well  finished  houses, 
and  thriving  villages,  are  continually  in  sight, 
handsomely  decorated  with  trees.  Now  and 
then,  on  the  distant  margin  of  the  river,  presents 
itself  to  view,  the  delicately  painted,  white  dwell- 
ing; its  windows  ornamented  with  the  green  Ve- 
netian blinds,  half  concealed  behind  the  bending 
willow,  or  peeping  gaily  over  the  extended  lawn. 
Strips  of  garden  in  rich  abundance,  and  orchards 
loaded  with  fruit:  as  apples,  pears,  and  quinces; 
the  harvest  patch,  or  verdant  meadow  lie  stretch- 
ed behind  these  neatly  situated  villas.  The 
./hite  sails  of  sloops  and  shipping,  are  seen  wav- 
ing over  the  waters.  At  the  opposite  side  rises 
the  city  of  Burlington,  whose  brick  houses  are 
pleasantly  situated,  on  a  bold  shore  interspersed 
with  trees. 

The  town  situated  on  the  elevated  bank  of  the 
river  and  facing  this,  is  called  Bristol,  where 
Fashion  has  held  her  court.  It  is  one  of  the  most 
charming  spots  along  the  Delaware ;  and  is  ad- 
mired for  the  elegant  taste  and  beauty  of  the 
white  Pavilions  protruding  from  its  high  banks. 

The  road  hence  to  Philadelphia  extends  over 
a  beautiful  gravel  turnpike,  through  a  pleasant 
country.  The  intervening  towns  of  Holmes- 
burgh  and  Frankford,  strung  along  the  line,  pre» 


I 'I 
'5\ 


■J 

/■. 

'if 


'.  >  i 


.    t 

/ 

n 

!i  i 
I 


\r 


\ 


,jj< 


236 

vent  the  view,  which  every  where  else  is  discover- 
able of  the  farm-house,  or  gentlemen's  mansion  : 
anticipation  is  alive  with  the  flattering  promise, 
when  the  citv  dawns  on  the  view. 


>-5^''^ir'" 


CHAPTER  XXI. 


city  of  Philadelphia  :  Reflections :  Advice  to  the  Tourist : 
Rise  and  Fall  of  Nations :  Preference  given  to  Travelling 
in  a  new  Country  :  Study  of  Nature. 

No  traveller  who  has  ever  been  in  Philadelphia, 
but  must  derive  increasing  pleasure  from  seeing 
it,  again  and  again.  The  first  impressions  re- 
ceived on  entering,  are,  from  the  surprisiug  neat- 
ness and  cleanliness  of  the  general  appearance  j 
though  to  a  constant  inmate,  the  contrast  with 
other  cities  in  this  respect,  is  not  readily  observ- 
ed. In  a  place  of  equal  size,  there  is  not  often 
more  care  bestowed  on  the  streets,  houses,  and 
pavements.  To  a  stranger  there  is  a  degree  of 
imposing  grandeur  in  the  regular  well  built 
houses;  and  the  Doric  chastity  of  public  buildings 
creates  an  idea  of  the  venerable,  or  long-established 
Metropolis.  The  even  range  of  walls  on  either 
side,  together  with  the  uncommon  bright  colour  of 
the  bricks,  the  white  marble  window-pieces,  and 
steps  in  front  of  the  delicately  painted  doors, 
produce  an  air  of  gayety  and  elegance,  which  the 


h 


238 


European  citizen  cannot  pass  unnoticed.  The 
interminable  length  of  streets,  and  contiguity  of 
right  angles,  confer  an  idea  of  stateliness,  order, 
and  beauty  of  arrangement,  as  well  as  an  appear- 
ance of  comfort,  which  no  other  city  can  boast. 

In  walking  through  Chesnut  street,  the  fancy 
is  awakened  by  busy  reflections.  Whence  have 
all  these  beauties  sprung?  Whence  this  pure 
style  of  architecture  and  classic  elegance  ?  this 
State-House,  where  the  first  Congress  met,  and 
signed  the  Declaration  of  Independence  f  That 
event  which  gave  new  birth  to  the  States,  and 
raised  to  glory  this  transatlantic  world.  Little 
more  than  a  century  back,  and  the  now  flourishing 
Capital  of  Pennsylvania  had  no  existence  ! 

Consider  this  place,  when  Penn  first  planted 
his  infant  colony  on  the  shores  of  the  Delaware : 
and  what  it  now  is.  Compare  the  beauteous 
scenery  and  deep  verdure,  which  now  line  those 
shores,  once  covered  by  an  unbroken  range  of 
wilderness,  which  plough  nor  axe  had  ever  pierc- 
ed. Then  behold  the  encroachments  of  cultiva- 
tion, the  birth  of  settlements,  the  growth  of 
towns,  together  with  the  unvaried  increase  of 
population,  throughout  our  western  country : 
and  we  are  led  in  wonder  to  exclaim  ;  this   is  a 


A. 


"~"^    f^Tf,'. ""  '"  i".t"  '^''^St-^  '-"•  .'i*'  '^.^iJCJtfT *'""*.■" 'V   "  ' 


^■'^Iffl'  '^■'iv^Wi^Ai  f'^  ^^fw*^  " ' 


ed.     The 

tiguity  of 
ss,  order, 
.n  appear- 
^  boast, 
the   fancy 
;nce  have 
this  pure 
mce  ?  this 
met,  and 
ce  f     That 
itates,  and 
•Id.     Little 
flourishing 
nee  ! 

Tst  planted 
Delaware : 
beauteous 
line  those 
n  range  of 
ever  pierc- 
of  cultiva- 
growth   ot 
increase  of 
country  : 
this  is  a 


1 


239 

land  of  enchantment^  this  is  my  home  and  my 
country ! 

"  Man,  through  all  ages  of  revolving  time, 
Unclianging,  man,  in  every  varying  clime, 
Deems  his  own  land  of  every  land  the  pride, 
Beloved  by  Heaven  o'er  all  the  world  beside  ; 
His  home  the  spot  of  earth  supremely  blest, 
A  dearer,  sweeter  spot  than  all  the  rest." 

MoNTGOMERr. 

These  are  subjects  worthy  of  general  consi- 
deration. The  study  of  his  own  country  is  in- 
teresting to  every  person,  but  peculiarly  so  to 
the  tourist.  It  may  be  well  said  to  be  among  the 
earliest  feelings;  the  very  offspring  of  our  nature. 
Let  the  traveller  be  well  acquainted,  before  set- 
ting out,  with  all  the  advantages  of  his  own  coun- 
try :  its  government — resources — laws.  He 
will  then  be  able  to  learn  all  that  is  to  be  found 
worthy  of  observation,  wherever  he  goes.  It  is 
only  by  comparison,  that  this  is  to  be  done;  and 
that,  where  a  competent  knowledge  is  obtained 
for  the  purpose.  He  starts,  as  it  ^7  ere  ^full-hand- 
ed^ on  a  journey;  and  is  able,  by  communication 
with  others,  to  excite  a  reciprocal  interest,  and, 
thereby,  to  call  forth  the  energy  of  transient  as- 
sociates J  or,  in  other  words,  to  give  and  receive 


\ 


f^:M. 


W 


/  ^^' 


Ln 


V'; 


-Vjifit'^.WLf. 


240 


I 

I 
\ 


in  an  equal  ratio ;  as  also,  to  secure  the  best  in- 
formation and  company. 

Numerous    circumstances    may   conspire,    to 
make  impressions  upon  the  traveller,  either  fa- 
vourable  or  otherwise,  by  which  his  judgment 
will  be  more  or  less  biassed.     The  same  object 
may  appear  differently,  at  different  times,  to  the 
same  eyes;  national  or  individual  prejudices  may 
arise,  at  one  timt,  sufficient  to  create  a  doubt  of 
those  facts,  which  at  another  would  be   palpable 
to  the  senses.     It  is  necessary,  if  we  would  judge 
fairly,  to  be  disburdened  of  these  prejudices  to- 
tally; antl  even  should  this  be  the  case,  certain 
fortuitous   circumstances  may   intervene ;    some 
want  of  natural  spirits  in  ourselves,  the  influence 
of  a  dull  companion,  or  the  thousand  incongru- 
ities  "  that  fiesh  is    heir  to^"*  may  be  sufficient 
to    chagrin   the     temper,    or    vitiate     the  judg- 
ment.    The  tourist  will  be  best  inclined  to   do 
justice  to  men  and  manners,  when  his  disposi- 
tion is  not  marred  by  these  nameless  casualties. 
He  will  do   well,  therefore,  not  to  sit  down  to 
write,  or  pass  judgment,  till  he  has  well  convinced 
himself  that  he   is  in   a  good  humour,  and  di- 
vested of  all  prejudice.     Let  him  consult  com- 
fort in  travelling,  for  without  this  there   is  no 
pleasure ;  he  must  be  particular  about  the  time, — 


241 


:  best  in- 
spire,  to 
either  fa- 
judgment 
me  object 
les,  to  the 
dices  may 
a  doubt  of 
e  palpable 
ould  judge 
judices  to- 
ise,  certain 
ene  ;    some 
le  influence 
incongru- 
e  sufficient 
the  judg- 
ined  to  do 
his  disposi- 
casualties. 
it  down  to 
I  convinced 
ur,  and  di- 
Dnsult  com- 
Lhere   is  no 
the  time,— 


iTie  mode  of  conveyance, — the  ultimate  pursuit,— 
and  of  all  things,  the  companions  with  v^hom  the 
route  is  intended  to  be  made.  .  .  ;   i,  ; 

But  we  constantly  find,  in  the  historical  page, 
an  eventful  account  of  the  rise,  progress,  and  de- 
cay of  nations.  The  unrelenting  hand  of  time 
has  strewed  with  horrid  desolation,  its  ravages 
over  countries  once  populous  and  flourishing. 
Proud  Hion's  walls  no  more  are  seen !  Babylon 
— the  great,  the  flourishing  Babylon — the  pride 
of  eastern  cities — the  admiration  of  kings — the 
wonder  of  the  world !  Where  is  now  thy  glory  ? 
— thy  boasted  grandeur ?— thy  gates  of  brass? — 
thy  hanging  gardens  ? — Are  there  no  traces  left? — 

none! — the  spot  itself  unknown ! ! Long  since 

has  Carthage  fallen;  her  deeds  are  told!  and 
while  the  intrepidity  of  her  defenders  is  recorded 
in  the  direful  story  of  that  once  rich  city; — the 
powerful  rival  of  ancient  Rome ;— another  me- 
mento is  added  to  the  inevitable  scene  of  ruin. 
Imperial  Rome  herself,  the  seat  of  learning  and 
arts,  presents  but  a  faint  glimmering  of  her  pris- 
tine lustre.  Her  ancient  palaces  lie  mouldering 
into  dust.  Her  Coliseum,  Temples,  and  Tri- 
umphal Arches,  indented  with  the  marks  of  uni- 
versal destiny,  are  evidences  of  this  lamentable 
truth.     When  we  recur  to  the  fact  afl'orded  by 


/ 


m 


w 


i24fi 

the  perpetual  changeableness  of  this  visible  world, 
we  are  impelled  to  refer  all  to  the  over-ruling 
hand  of  Providence.  By  a  due  comparison  of 
countries, -the  blessings  attendant  on  our  own  are 
easier  to  be  discovered,  as  these  effects  are  not 
yet  so  visible. 

One  great  inference,  then,  I  think,  may  fairly 
be  drawn,  in  favour  of  travelling  in  a  new  coun> 
try,  by  the  effect  produced  on  the  mind.  Inas- 
much as  the  gradual  fall  of  nations,  creates  an 
idea  of  grief,  so  the  tendency  to  rise  promotes  a 
contrary  effect,  when  the  comparison  is  made.  It 
is  on  the  present  decay  and  the  departed  great- 
ness, that  we  dwell  in  viewing  the  old,  and  thus  a 
gloom  is  overcast ;  but  transfer  this  scene  to  the  na- 
tural advantages  of  the  new  country,  and  how  the 
field  brightens!  The  pleasure  of  travelling  thus 
depends  on  retaining  the  whole  picture  in  view; 
and  is  founded,  in  a  great  measure,  on  the  new- 
ness of  a  country,  and  the  reasonable  expecta- 
tions formed  of  its  tendency  to  improve.  The 
gloss  of  novelty^  therefore,  is  to  be  considered  as 
the  most  favourable  characteristic,  to  direct  the 
Tourist.  All  around  him  then  breathes  so  much 
freshness,  the  vigour  of  youth  appears,  and  he 
looks  into  a  new  charter  of  existence ;  where  time 
has  not  yet  unfolded  his  wings. 

This  satisfaction  we  enjoy  by  means  of  travel' 


^W  >i 


e  world, 
:r-ruling 
ri3on  of 
own  are 
3  are  not 

lay  fairly 
lew  coun- 
d.     Inas- 
reates  an 
romotes  a 
made.    It 
ted  great- 
and  thus  a 
e  to  the  na- 
id  how  the 
|elling  thus 
•e  in  view ; 
In  the  new- 
ie  expecta- 
ove.    The 
sidered  as 
direct  the 
tcs  so  much 
trs,  and  he 
where  time 

of  travel- 


243 

ling  through  a  new  country,  awakened  at  every 
step,  and  heightened,  by  the  most  interesting  feel- 
ings;   in  which  point  of  view,  America  possesses 
superior  advantages,  to  almost  all  other  coun> 
tries.     Extending  over  every  habitable  latitude, 
her  climate  is  capable  of  becoming   suitable  for 
the  residence  of  the  native  of  any  other.     The 
peaceful  emigrant,  disposed  to  cultivate  the  lands^ 
finds  himself  immediately  settled  down  amongst 
others,  with  a  common  object  of  pursuit.    It  is  the 
vital  happiness  and  prosperity  of  each  individual, 
that  mutual  assistance  should  be  conferred,  and 
every  thing  done,  to  facilitate  the  progress  of  his 
neighbour. — New  countries  want  only  cultivators 
of  the  soil.— The  general  good,  is  the  individual 
good. — The  laws  are  propitious. — The  climate 
invites. — And  kind  nature  bestows,  on  her  in- 
dustrious   progeny,  the   smile   of    approbation. 
Where  is  the  land  besides,  that  possesses,  in   so 
eminent  a  degree,  these  advantages  ?     "  What 
other  land  is  there,  which  tells  only  of  improve- 
ment, or  points  not  the  imagination  back  to  bet- 
ter days."     It  is  hardly  possible  to  behold  such 
a  land,  and  contemplate  its  prosperity, — its  cities 
and  towns  springing  up,  as  it  were,  by  the  very 
touch  of  the  3Iagkian^ — its  flourishing  and  active 
population  extending  over  the  desolate  western 


VI 


m 


1 


.^ 


•-^<'(^ 


'^ 


244 

forests,  untrodden  before,  save  by  the  wild  hun- 
ter, or  the  savage  beast,  without  being  sensibly 
struck  with  the  truth  of  ihe  above  observations. 

It  may  be  further  observed,  that  travelling  is 
productive  of  real  advantages,  in  another  point 
of  view;  inasmuch  as  it  affords  an  opportunity 
of  studying'  7iature  attentively,  and  thus  the  feel- 
ings are  profitably  awakened.  Here  is  a  school 
for  the  heart.  It  is  here  we  may  learn  our  duty 
♦o  God— to  our  neighbour — and  to  ourselves. 

^  "  Not  content 

With  every  food  of  life  to  nourisli  man, 
}{y  kind  illusions  of  the  wandering  sense. 
Thou  mak'st  all  nature  beauty  to  his  eye. 
Or  music  to  his  eaj\" 

Akensiok. 

There  is  not  any  circumstance,  which  can  pro- 
duce a  more  profound  veneration  for  God,  than 
the  consideration,  that  he  is  the  maker  and  pre- 
server of  all  things.  When  we  behold  the  works 
of  nature,  we  are  filled  with  unceasing  wonder. 
The  ideas  thus  excited,  are  a  natural  inducement 
for  us  to  fall  down  and  worship  that  Being,  who 
has  created,  out  of  nothing,  all  the  numberless 
worlds  which  surround  us;  who  has  suspended 
them  in  the  Heavens,  and  caused  them  to  revolv<- 


«**■■ 


t245 


id  hun- 
iensibly 
ationa. 
:Uing  is 
er  point 
ortunity 
the  feel- 
a  school 
our  duty 
elves. 


5, 

e, 

UKNSlDi: 


God 


can  pro- 

,  than 

and  pre- 

the  works 

g  wonder. 

liducement 

leing,  who 

lumberless 

I  suspended 

to  revolvt- 


round  each  other,  in  their  respective  orbs, 
throughout  the  immensity  of  space:  by  whose  im- 
petus,  they  are  made  to  depend  upon,  as  well  as 
to  sustain,  one  another;  to  communicate  light 
and  heat  to  all  the  creatures  which  they  contain, 
His  powerful  hand  retains  the  sun  in  his  orb,  and 
the  sea  within  its  confines.  I"^e  confers  life  n 
myriads  of  creatures,  in  whose  hisjht,  not  ar  atom 
passes  unnoticed,  or  a  "  uparrow  fiUls  ■?  the 
ground.^''  How  diminutive  are  al!  these,  *n  com- 
parison with  the  immense  globes,  which  nightl; 
are  presented  to  our  view ;  or  all  things  terrestnal, 
to  this  great  and  glorious  Author?  W\n  then 
can  presume  to  offend  the  Almighty,  whose  arm 
is  every  where  stretched  out, — who  beholdeth 
the  evil  and  the  good,  and  who,  in  one  instant, 
can  create  or  destroy ! 

It  seems  impossible  to  reflect  for  a  moment 
upon  the  ways  of  Providence,  without  being  sen- 
sibly struck  with  the  amazing  goodness,  every 
where  discoverable,  through'^nt  animal  creation: 
the  most  minute  being  in  ej»i.  .tnce  is  his  pecu- 
liar care.  They  seem  all  to  have  been  intended, 
by  their  beneficent  Author,  for  some  particular 
end.  They  obey  th^ii^^  Creator's  voice.  The 
cattle  crop  the  tender  grass,  and  drink  the  purl- 
ing stream.     The  swift  are  fitted  for  the  race. 

X  3 


-'^1 


--'\. 


24d 


r 


Among  all  may  be  traced,  Nature's  unerring  hand. 
Observe  the  feathered  tribe,  with  pinion  light, 
and  form  suitable  to  the  aerial  region.  The  pur- 
poses of  the  Creator  are  discernible  in  the  eye, 
the  talons,  and  the  beak  of  the  hawk ;  the  active 
form  and  light  limbs  of  the  deer.  Can  it  then  be 
possible  to  discover  so  base  a  principle  in  the  hu- 
man heart,  as  to  oppose  his  will,  by  denying  to  a 
fellow  creature  the  out-stretched  arm  of  pity; 
when  the  infinite  beneficence  of  God,  is  every 
where  to  be  traced?  Ought  not  mankind  to  learn 
charity,  in  proportion  as  they  see  this  wonderful 
goodness  of  God  shed  abroad  in  the  universe? 
If  we  would  excite  this  celestial  love  towards 
ourselves,  we  should  endeavour  by  all  possible 
means  to  cherish  it  for  others. 

Since  then  we  have  abundant  proofs  of  the 
wisdom,  goodness,  and  power  of  that  Being,  who 
directs  every  thing,  continually  before  us,  we 
are  inspired  with  emotions  of  love  and  gratitude, 
particularly  by  the  contemplation  of  nature. 
Loudly  is  this  truth  proclaimed ;  that  "  God  is 
Love.^*  It  was  love,  that  caused  him  to  create 
the  world,  for  the  manifestation  of  his  glory, 
that  he  might  contribute  life,  health,  and  hap- 
piness, to  numberlesa  other  beings  :  to  whom  the 
beauty  and  grandeur  of  the  earth,  the  pleasing 


,,.-J*:.. 


;*' 


>/ 


hand. 

light, 
\t  pur- 
le  eye, 
:  active 
then  be 
the  hu- 
ing  to  a 
f  pity; 
s  every 

to  learn 
onderful 
niverse  ? 

towards 

possible 

s  of  the 
ing,  who 

us,  we 
gratitude, 

nature. 
"  God  is 
to  create 
lis   glory, 
and  hap- 
whom  the 

pleasing 


247 

variety  of  seasons,  and  the  innumerable  other 
bounties  of  his  providence,  throughout  the  re- 
gions of  animated  nature,  are  continual  sources 
of  enjoyment. 

"  These  are  thy  glorious  works,  thou  source  of  gooii\ 

How  dimly  seen,  how  faintly  understood! 

Thine,  and  upheld  by  thy  paternal  care, 

This  universal  frame,  thus  wondrous  fair; 

Thy  pow'r  divine,  and  bounty  beyond  thought, 

Ador'd  and  prais'd  in  all  that  thou  has  wrought. 

Absorb'd  in  that  immensity  1  see, 

I  shrink  abas'd,  and  yet  aspire  to  thee  : 

Instruct  me,  guide  me  to  that  heav'nly  day, 

Thy  words  more  clearly  than  thy  works  display  ; 

That,  while  thy  truths  my  grosser  thoughts  refine, 

I  may  resemble  thee,  and  call  thee  mine." 

The  Almighty  Disposer,  it  appears  then,  was 
guided  by  love,  in  that  he  communicated  to  num- 
berless beings  a  portion  of  happiness  approach- 
ing to  that  which  he  himself  enjoyed:  from  the 
Archangel  down  to  the  minutest  being,  each  re- 
ceived a  share,  proportionate  to  the  measure  of 
its  own  capacity.  .  There  is  not  a  single  creature 
existing,  which  does  not  afford  proof  of  the  fact : 
and  man,  in  an  eminent  degree,  being  Ciidowed 
with  the  faculty  of  reason  ;  v/nereby  he  is  en- 
abled to  feel  and  appreciate  these  favours.     The 


i 

'I 


\ 

i 


I 


ii 


1, 


:^/ 


248 

Creator  hath  given  him  all  power  over  the  beaH 
of  the  jield^  and  \kit.fo-vol  of  the  air  ;  and  he  hath 
made  the  earth  to  bring  forth  fruit,  for  his  use 
and  convenience.  Since  then  it  is  he,  that  careth 
for  us^  shall  not  we  care  for  ourselves  P  The  duties 
which  he  hath  enjoined,  call  loudly  for  the  exer- 
cise of  those  faculties,  bestowed  in  conformity 
to  the  vital  principles  of  our  existence.  The 
commands  of  God  enforce  an  obligation,  to  be 
active  in  this  exercise.  The  consideration  rises 
ever  before  us,  that  we  have  been  created  for  an 
eternal  existence  ;  and  hence  we  may  learn  what 
constitutes  the  duty  of  this  life,  and  prepare  for 
happiness  in  another. 


(Cr  As  the  incidental  expences  of  this  Tour  are  not  men- 

.tioned  in  the  present  work;  it  may  not  be  amiss  to  state, 

that  the  total  amount  did  not  cost  the  individual  above  one 

hundred  and  fifty  dollars :  if  more  time  were  allowed,  the 

ratio  per  day  might  be  lessened. 


^. 


•       .'  ■ 


BRIER 


NEW^YORK  TO  UTlCA. 

Mile* 

Page 

Milei 

Page 

New-York, 

^ 

Palatine  Village, 

4 

— 

Highlands, 

— 

4 

Manheim, 

10 

10 

Environs  of  Albany,     — 

9 

Little  Falls, 

10 

11 

Schenectady, 

16 

10 

Herkimer, 

6 

12 

Amsterdam, 

17 

ib. 

Schuyler, 

6 

ib. 

Caughnawaga, 

9 

— 

Utica, 

8 

13 

Palatine  Bridge, 

15 

— 

UTICA  TO  NIAGARA. 

M. 

P. 

M. 

P. 

New  Hartford, 

4 

19 

Gorham, 

5 

— 

■Westmoreland, 

7 

20 

Canandaigua^ 

4 

47 

Vernon, 

6 

ib. 

Bloomfield, 

8 

58 

Oneida  Cr. 

5 

21 

Lima, 

9 

ib. 

Sullivan, 

il 

S3 

Avon, 

9 

ib. 

Ohittinengo  Rr. 

3 

— 

Genesee  Landing, 

1 

ib. 

Manlius, 

6 

33 

Caledonia, 

7 

60 

Derne, 

3 

ib. 

Le  Roy, 

5 

ib. 

Jamesville, 

3 

ib. 

Stafford, 

4 

ib. 

Onondaga, 

'   4 

ib. 

Hatavia, 

8 

60 

West  Hill, 

1 

34 

Tonnewanta  Cr, 

4 

62 

Marcellus, 

9 

ib. 

Pembroke,         ^ 

ib 

Skeneateles, 

.     6 

ib. 

Clarence,            V 

17 

ib 

Auburn, 

8 

36 

Williamsville,    j 

ib 

Cayuga  E. 

8 

41 

Buffalo, 

19 

63 

Seneca  Falls, 

4 

42 

Black  Rock  Ferry, 

2 

ib. 

Waterloo, 

4 

ib. 

Palmer's, 

6 

—. 

('■eneva. 

6 

44 

Chippewa, 

9 

64 

Seneca, 

7 

— 

Niagara  Fall4i 

3 

€5 

¥ 


f ,».  ►••■»*^ 


4 


fc>    •'.. 


250 


NIAGARA  TO  MONTREAL. 


M. 

P. 

M. 

t. 

Queenston, 

7 

84 

Milleroches, 

31 

120 

Newark, 

7 

85 

Cornwall, 

6 

ib. 

York, 

40 

87 

Coteau  du  Lac, 

25 

121 

Kingston, 

120 

95 

Cedres, 

7 

124 

Gananoque, 

18 

105 

Chataugay, 

— 

ib. 

Brockville, 

36 

110 

Grand  Portage, 

— 

125 

Prcscott, 

14 

117 

La  Chine, 

— 

ib. 

Williamsburgh, 

19 

118 

Montreal, 

7 

129 

MONTREAL 

TO  ALBANY. 

M. 

P. 

M. 

P. 

La  Prairie, 

9 

149 

W.  Granville, 

11 

174 

St,  John's, 

18 

152 

E.  Granville, 

3 

ib. 

Isle  aux  Noix, 

14 

153 

Hebron, 

9 

ib. 

Windmill  Point, 

12 

Salem, 

8 

ib. 

Plattsburgh, 

17 

154 

Cambridge, 

16 

ib. 

Burlington, 

18 

158 

Pitts  Town, 

13 

ib. 

Crown  Point, 

30 

167 

Lansingburgh, 

10 

181 

Ticonderoga, 

15 

168 

Troy, 

3 

182 

Whitehall, 

30 

171 

Albany, 

6 

18S 

ALBANY  TO  NEW-YORK. 

M. 

P. 

M. 

P. 

Baltimore, 

10 

— 

Fort  Montgomery, 

3 

— 

Kinderhook, 

3 

— 

Peekskill  Landing, 

6 

— 

Hudson, 

13 

— 

Verplank's  Point, 

4 

— 

Catskill, 

5 

— 

Croton, 

5 

— 

Livingston's  Manor,        4 

— 

Tarry  Town, 

b 

— 

Rhinebeck, 

20 

— 

Philipsburgh, 

11 

— 

Poughkeepsie, 

16 

— 

Kingsbridge, 

4 

— 

New  burgh. 
West  Point, 

14 

— 

New-York, 

12 

3 

9 

— 

NEW-VORK 

TO 

PHILADELPHIA. 

M. 

P. 

M. 

P. 

Newark, 

9 

209 

Bristol, 

10 

235 

Elizabeth  Town, 

6 

ib. 

Holmesburgh, 

11 

ib. 

New-Brunswick, 

17 

211 

Frankford, 

4 

ib. 

Princeton, 

18 

229 

Philadelphia, 

5 

23r 

Trenton, 

12 

233 

FINIS. 


M. 

r. 

21 

120 

6 

ib. 

25 

121 

7 

124 

ib. 

125 

_,.,,- 

ib. 

7 

129 

M. 

P. 

11 

174 

3 

ib. 

9 

ib. 

8 

ib. 

16 

ib. 

13 

ib. 

10 

181 

3 

183 

6 

18S 

M. 

p. 

3 

— 

6 

4 

5 

b 

11 

4 

12  2 

M.  P. 

10  235 

11  ib. 

4  ib. 

5  2iT 


,d 


